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GT350 Engine/Oil Usage/Fix thread.

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Minn19

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I'm not disagreeing with you. We're trying to help you and I truly feel for you. If it were my car I'd do it myself because I do not trust anyone else. I wish I could be there to help more. I know what you feel hurts and is disappointing. Sorry friend. We all just want you to enjoy your car. I hope it all works out for you. My advice is to try another dealer and to talk to someone at ford performance yourself. Skip the gate keepers and go above them. I've seen a failed GT350 at my local dealer and ford sent out a guy and he told me he's the only guy from ford that investigates the gt350. His words not mine. This motors not much different then a 5.0. Granted it's got a flat plane crank, better heads and induction, but it's still a coyote based engine. Not rocket science like they try to make everyone think.
I hope it gets better for you soon.
Thanks, I do appreciate it. And for what it's worth, I really do love the car. It is easily the most exciting car out there (in my price range) IMO. So, it is really disappointing from that standpoint as well. I'm not sure what else I'd get because it couldn't live up to this car......at least when I'm not adding oil. ;)

Edit: I need four seats, so most exciting car with four seats. :D
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Sorry, I didn't see this post. I was checking my catch cans after an AutoX. I checked the oil while I was doing that and found it was halfway down the dipstick. This was about 3000 miles or so. I kept an eye on it and it dropped to the bottom of the stick ina few hundred more miles. I then added a quart and that disappeared very quickly so I reluctantly took it in to the dealer.
The oil you're using is 5w50 correct? When you checked the oil, how long did you wait after turning the engine off? I know you had bmws before. Some Euro cars you check hot some cold. Some immediately after shut down. How much oil are in your catch cans?
 
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Minn19

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The oil you're using is 5w50 correct? When you checked the oil, how long did you wait after turning the engine off? I know you had bmws before. Some Euro cars you check hot some cold. Some immediately after shut down. How much oil are in your catch cans?
Yup, correct oil specs weight etc.

I've checked the oil a couple of ways. The manual says wait 15 minutes and then try not to burn the shit out of your hands doing it. Or I've checked it before I go to bed (off for quite a few hours after work) or in the morning before going to work.
 

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I have what might be an unpopular opinion... I've owned and have been actively into the online communities for the performance models of several makes of cars: Ford, Porsche, Subaru, VW. There are anecdotes about Mustangs, Caymans, WRXs, GTIs, etc. burning oil.

My hunch based on general mechanical engineering experience: once in a while a bad ring makes it into an engine build. The ring may score the cylinder wall or be out of round, and that's enough to cause the engine to consume oil. It's not bad break in, engine design, etc. that causes most anomalous oil consumption.
 

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Sure it's just that easy. Why should I lose thousands of dollars because Ford can't live up to their end of the bargain?
Dealership may just be lazy. Nudge them in the right direction by asking technical questions. If you don't want to ask any technical questions and just interact with them with the aid of a lawyer, that may work, but its not the most efficient way to go about things.
 

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I have what might be an unpopular opinion... I've owned and have been actively into the online communities for the performance models of several makes of cars: Ford, Porsche, Subaru, VW. There are anecdotes about Mustangs, Caymans, WRXs, GTIs, etc. burning oil.

My hunch based on general mechanical engineering experience: once in a while a bad ring makes it into an engine build. The ring may score the cylinder wall or be out of round, and that's enough to cause the engine to consume oil.
That's what my dealer said FP or whoever told them. They are pretty sure it is a ring issue. Which confuses me more then why they are saying they don't know how to fix it. Seems pretty straightforward if they think that is the case.
 

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That's what my dealer said FP or whoever told them. They are pretty sure it is a ring issue. Which confuses me more then why they are saying they don't know how to fix it. Seems pretty straightforward if they think that is the case.
I think they know it means a new short block, and that's $$$. It also could set a precedent for others. If they follow up with a warranty repair I suspect you'll be asked to sign a non-disclosure agreement.

If I were you I'd make friends with the dealer service manager and push hard for a new short block.
 
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Dealership may just be lazy. Nudge them in the right direction by asking technical questions. If you don't want to ask any technical questions and just interact with them with the aid of a lawyer, that may work, but its not the most efficient way to go about things.
Ok, last time. They are definitely not lazy as they have called Ford Customer service and FP and others on my behalf.

Unless my dealer and other people's dealers are lying to us.....Ford Performane or whoever will not let them get into the engine and apparently this includes some tests. My dealer has specifically told me they will not let them do hardly anything to it at all.

The only reason I'd hire a lawyer is to lemon this thing as a last resort if Ford doesn't live up to their contractual obligations.
 
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I think they know it means a new short block, and that's $$$. It also could set a precedent for others. If they follow up with a warranty repair I suspect you'll be asked to sign a non-disclosure agreement.

If I were you I'd make friends with the dealer service manager and push hard for a new short block.
I have and he is trying.
 

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Hello not trying to be devil's advocate but these engines have forged pistons with low tension rings and hardly any kind of piston skirt. That and the fact that many of us drive these engines at high rpms with very little load will allow the rings to flutter and allow oil to pass bye. If the engine is under load then the combustion gases will get behind the rings and push them tight against the cylinder walls and piston ring grooves to keep them sealed.

The ring flutter low load situation will certainly cause these engines to use more oil than what is considered normal for most but is actually quite normal. That being said it should not use 1 qt in 80 miles and something is most likely wrong. My 2017 with just under 3k has used only 1 qt in the 2500 miles since changing the oil at 500 miles.

BMW M cars are consider to be normal if if they consume 1 qt in 800 miles just saying using oil in a modern high revving/performance engine is considered normal.

I am more worried about the oil cooler line blowing off than the motor using oil!
 
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How can this be accurate. First you say 80 miles per quart then you say 2 quarts per full tank of gas. You're telling us you get only 160 miles per tank of fuel?
He said using "over" 2 qts per tank..
 

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He said using "over" 2 qts per tank..
My point is, he's using 1 quart every 80 miles. Without a serious leak I find this hard to believe. If any combustion engine uses this much oil without a leak, it's gotta be smoking out the tail pipe. Bad rings, seals, guides, etc. Even if the oil was contaminating the cooling system the engine would be running hot. The higher oil pressure would be over taking the lower cooling system pressure and the temps would rise. I've seen it happen a handful times before where the water to oil cooler failed and oil went into the cooling system and made a huge mess everywhere. At that point the whole cooling system had to be drained and flushed with tide laundry detergent and dawn dish soap and lots of clean water.
 

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My point is, he's using 1 quart every 80 miles. Without a serious leak I find this hard to believe. If any combustion engine uses this much oil without a leak, it's gotta be smoking out the tail pipe. Bad rings, seals, guides, etc. Even if the oil was contaminating the cooling system the engine would be running hot. The higher oil pressure would be over taking the lower cooling system pressure and the temps would rise. I've seen it happen a handful times before where the water to oil cooler failed and oil went into the cooling system and made a huge mess everywhere. At that point the whole cooling system had to be drained and flushed with tide laundry detergent and dawn dish soap and lots of clean water.
Well screw you buddy. How can I prove this to you internet hero? My engine is scheduled to be replaced on the 7th. That is the best I can do for you unless you want to go on an 80 mile drive with me.
 

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Well screw you buddy. How can I prove this to you internet hero? My engine is scheduled to be replaced on the 7th. That is the best I can do for you unless you want to go on an 80 mile drive with me.
Wow!
Really!
I think you are taking this a little personal. I'm not calling you a liar. I'm saying it's hard to believe and they tell you they couldn't find the problem.
Buddy
 

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For what its worth, on a full fill up, if I have not driven any freeway, a full tank estimate is around 200 miles on the computer. I don't drive it until its empty but 160 miles would be possible for me when I am driving the car hard on the back roads out here. Its not hard to avg 12-13 mpg on the computer and actually observe a bit less. My ecoboost f150 often reads 14ish on the computer but actual observed mileage is always higher.
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