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getting new short block

mustang1

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... As a B/U plan, think about contacting an Indy shop that is knowledgeable about the 5.0 motor to get a second opinion on what is going on with the new motor.
this seems is a good idea. Although you don't want an indy mechanic digging into the engine trying to pinpoint the noise.
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keltymd

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can you tell where the noise is coming from? Maybe its coming from parts that got transferred to the new short block. Were you not able to detect that when you picked up the car? That would have been the best time.
The knock was not there when I got it. The next day I took her or a nice long drive and noticed it when I got home. it has to be driven for a bit and warm up fully.
 
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keltymd

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this seems is a good idea. Although you don't want an indy mechanic digging into the engine trying to pinpoint the noise.
exactly I can see ford saying warranty void faster than I can show them the details
 

mustang1

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The knock was not there when I got it. The next day I took her or a nice long drive and noticed it when I got home. it has to be driven for a bit and warm up fully.
Is this new / different from the previous noise? Is it a knock or a ticking / tapping? If its the latter, that maybe be something in the upper engine, cams / valves, etc that shows itself once the engine oil gets hot, and thinner. I think it takes 10-15 miles for the oil to get fully hot, particularly this time of year.
 

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this seems is a good idea. Although you don't want an indy mechanic digging into the engine trying to pinpoint the noise.
Not talking about opening up the motor, just getting an Indy to hear the noise and get an opinion on what the cause is.
 

mustang1

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Not talking about opening up the motor, just getting an Indy to hear the noise and get an opinion on what the cause is.
One problem is he won't be able to use the data. So if he tells dealership "my independent mechanic says <blah> <blah>" the dealership is likely to dig in and stone-wall.

The other problem is independent mechanic will be tempted to get a wrench after the engine to figure out what the problem is.
 

Mr981

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One problem is he won't be able to use the data. So if he tells dealership "my independent mechanic says <blah> <blah>" the dealership is likely to dig in and stone-wall.

The other problem is independent mechanic will be tempted to get a wrench after the engine to figure out what the problem is.
You only use the info gained by the Indy if Ford doesn't play it straight with with the OP. If this case goes to arbitration, he'll need an a professional opinion the counter the Ford opinion.

If you make it clear to the Indy there is no repair, just a professional opinion on what the source of noise is--and no repair work to be done or paid for--you shouldn't have to worry about an Indy trying to build a retirement program.
 

mustang1

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You only use the info gained by the Indy if Ford doesn't play it straight with with the OP. If this case goes to arbitration, he'll need an a professional opinion the counter the Ford opinion.
if its in arbitration, any mention of Indy may result in Ford saying Indy did something. And then its finger pointing.


edit:
Indy mechanic may be able to tell him what the noise is, just based on experience. He doesn't have to disclose the Indy mechanic to the dealership. Just pass off any info as his own. He can go to dealership and say "engine is still making unusual noise, please check <X> "
 
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keltymd

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if its in arbitration, any mention of Indy may result in Ford saying Indy did something. And then its finger pointing.


edit:
Indy mechanic may be able to tell him what the noise is, just based on experience. He doesn't have to disclose the Indy mechanic to the dealership. Just pass off any info as his own. He can go to dealership and say "engine is still making unusual noise, please check <X> "
in the end it does not matter if I know what it is or not all that matters is Ford buys it back one way or another
 

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I am looking for advise and opinions here. My brand new 2016 Premium GTPP is getting a new short-block installed by the dealer. I first reported a knocking noise to the dealer at 2500 miles the day after they did her first oil change. Timeline is like this:

Took it in for the first oil change and the next morning I could hear a tapping noise when she warmed up at idle so I took it back to the dealer. They kept it for 4 days only to give it back telling me they could not work on it until I removed my oil air separator. So I took her back home.

Two weeks goes by and I take it back. This time they keep it for 8 days (up to 12 total now) and they give her back telling me they could not reproduce the issue. I make the Service Director write on the ticket that he heard the sound when I dropped it off. I take her home and watch the videos from her time there that my dash cam captured. In one video a tech takes her up to about 100MPH on the highway and then back to the shop. He does nothing and backs her out of the shop where she sits for 5 days. Then another drive and she sits again. Last day she was there the service director takes her for a drive and pull it in the shop. He calls a couple tech over and gets back in the car you can hear on the video the techs saying "Thats Odd" and the Service Director saying "Yeah I can feel it in the shifter". So I got great video of them admitting to the issue yet they gave me the car back with the ticket saying "Could not reproduce the issue".

After watching these videos I call the General Manager of the dealer and send him copies. He is more than happy to have me bring the car back in, take me to the airport, pick me up from the airport after my trip and give me a rental car. Imagine that after watching videos of his guys admitting to the issue and driving my car 100MPH he is willing to help out a bit.

Now we are at today. She is still in the shop and has been since the 13th (as of today that is 30 days AND three attempts to repair by the dealer). They told me they have a new ShortBlock that just came in for her and it should be ready in about 5 working days. My issue is I am nervous about my brand new car I purchased on August 17th having the engine replaced by a guy who apparently didnt want ot work on it in the first place. I would feel better had it been a complete intake to oil pan engine but a short block well there is a lot they can mess up.

Options
1. take it when its ready
2. Call Ford and try to get a swap for another 2016
3. lemon it and be done.

I have had mustangs since I was 16 years old and am 43 now. I have always had great luck and love the cars. Only two issues I have ever had were with the one I traded for this one (2014 Track Pack GT with a rear end they rebuild 5 times) and this one with a bad engine and she had the drive-line vibration but I fixed that myself by squaring up the IRS.
I am just at a loss
most states lemon law allows the dealer 3 times on the same issue. you should review the local laws
 

pro 5.0

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What kind of noise are we talking about here is it a deep bottom end knock that is heard from the oil pan indicating a bad bearing ? or is it a noise from the timing chains or front cover area, or noise from the top end of the motor. Has anyone removed the oil filter and cut it open to check for metal ? This isn't a hard thing to do and IMO should be one of the first steps in diagnosing the problem. If they replaced the bottom end for whatever reason did they disassemble the heads and clean and inspect or did they just put them back on the new short block as is. If there was a problem with the original bottom end then for sure that metal has gone through the heads. It is highly unlikely that you would have the exact same noise in the engine after replacing with a new short block.
 

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knock is a timing issue that the computer can adjust for, whereas a "tick" is a mechanical issue
all of these 5.0's tick though. I have ticking at all RPMs and all temperatures. I took it to the dealer and they let me start up 3 2017 GTs, sounded identical.
 

pro 5.0

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The word TICK is a loose term and can be attributed to many things such as lifter tick, injector tick, exhaust leak etc.
 
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keltymd

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What kind of noise are we talking about here is it a deep bottom end knock that is heard from the oil pan indicating a bad bearing ? or is it a noise from the timing chains or front cover area, or noise from the top end of the motor. Has anyone removed the oil filter and cut it open to check for metal ? This isn't a hard thing to do and IMO should be one of the first steps in diagnosing the problem. If they replaced the bottom end for whatever reason did they disassemble the heads and clean and inspect or did they just put them back on the new short block as is. If there was a problem with the original bottom end then for sure that metal has gone through the heads. It is highly unlikely that you would have the exact same noise in the engine after replacing with a new short block.
The bottom end of the engine has already been replaced (Crank, rods, pistons, block) and now there is a new knock you can hear and feel every time the engine pulses like someone tapping with a wrench on the shifter but is is hard to hear or pinpoint when out of the car from the wheelwell or under the hood. Mainly it is only there when the engine is warmed up and has been driven a bit. I have not been able to climb under it to see where it is coming from yet, and really dont think I should have too, due to the fact it is butt cold here and I dont feel like freezing.
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