frustrated

[dotJake]

You never know the cost of the car though, unless you do a or x-plan.

No, no, no. A/X/Z/D Plans aren't the cost of the car, they're your cost for the car. There is a difference:frusty: Some of us like to build relationships by paying a fair price for a car. Some of us don't give a crap and actually like the game (me). Stop looking at sale ads and start pricing out the car you want. It's easy - see attached. Learn how Ford calculates holdback (hint: it's 3% of configured MSRP less destination charge) Now you're on the right track. Seriously, read up on holdback. Make them work for it. As others have said: Stop. Talking. Payments:headbonk:

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[Charles147]

Nothing wrong saying how much a month you are willing to pay especially since some folks on this site are more concerned about month to month vs total cost of the loan anyways. TRUTH! The dealer met the consumer expectation.

Besides, that is how you negotiate! I mean c'mon saying you'll pay $500 a month is basically saying 30k car with avg 60 month loan. Yes, we can play with #'s all day long...and you can walk away too! But remember, the dealer met your expectation.

 

[70monte]

Get a loan calculator app on your phone and play around with it so you know exactly how expensive of a car you can afford with the interest rate you know you can get.

Like others have said, get pre-approved before you ever step foot inside the dealership so you know what rate you can get so you can accurately figure out the numbers yourself without relying on the dealership to do it for you.

Years ago a dealership finance department would have screwed me good for about $40 more a month if I had not done my homework first and knew about what my payments should have been. I basically made the guy admit that he had added credit life insurance into my loan without my approval.

My advice, do your homework first before even attempting to buy a car.

Wayne

 

[HappySquirrel]

Get a loan calculator app on your phone and play around with it so you know exactly how expensive of a car you can afford with the interest rate you know you can get.

Like others have said, get pre-approved before you ever step foot inside the dealership so you know what rate you can get so you can accurately figure out the numbers yourself without relying on the dealership to do it for you.

Years ago a dealership finance department would have screwed me good for about $40 more a month if I had not done my homework first and knew about what my payments should have been. I basically made the guy admit that he had added credit life insurance into my loan without my approval.

My advice, do your homework first before even attempting to buy a car.

Wayne

Great advice here, especially on using the loan calculator app.

When I bought my Stang I was preapproved, but I let the dealer take a crack at financing to see if they could beat my rate, and they did so I went with them. BUT, when they came back the numbers didn't add up. The monthly payment was almost 40 bucks higher than it should have been. They tried to screw me by jacking up the purchase price of the car by about a grand and hiding it in the financing! Luckily I already knew what I should be paying and I had my phone ready with a loan calculator webpage opened. I caught them and the dealer tried to play it off as an innocent mistake. If I wasn't prepared & thorough I would have been bent over.

 

[Foxtrot]

Great advice here, especially on using the loan calculator app.

When I bought my Stang I was preapproved, but I let the dealer take a crack at financing to see if they could beat my rate, and they did so I went with them. BUT, when they came back the numbers didn't add up. The monthly payment was almost 40 bucks higher than it should have been. They tried to screw me by jacking up the purchase price of the car by about a grand and hiding it in the financing! Luckily I already knew what I should be paying and I had my phone ready with a loan calculator webpage opened. I caught them and the dealer tried to play it off as an innocent mistake. If I wasn't prepared & thorough I would have been bent over.

Good for you! I would have "punished" them by making them take an extra $250-500 off for that ;) Similarly the one I tried to buy from the other day added $1400 in some bogus iPhone security app accessory to it.

 

[None2Slow]

I love being in Idaho. Its an OPEN CARRY states and when I got to "negotiate" I just happen to wearing my XD.45 in plain view. Takes all the high pressure sales out of the negotiation.

They tried to get my aunt into a car by asking her "what can you afford". I jumped in and asked how much for the car. They just kept asking her whos buying this car? When they wouldn't answer me after the 3rd time, we walked. Figure about $20-$25 a month for every $1000 financed. This will get you in the ballpark. Then it becomes how long and interest rate.

 

[DAVECS1]

Talk to Ramsey at Glenn Ford in KY. I thought their deal was to good to be true. I made my deal over text and email and phone. Flew down and they honored it and had me out in an hour, I was shocked, dealerships around here use every trick in the book

 

[Medsport]

No, no, no. A/X/Z/D Plans aren't the cost of the car, they're your cost for the car. There is a difference:frusty: Some of us like to build relationships by paying a fair price for a car. Some of us don't give a crap and actually like the game (me). Stop looking at sale ads and start pricing out the car you want. It's easy - see attached. Learn how Ford calculates holdback (hint: it's 3% of configured MSRP less destination charge) Now you're on the right track. Seriously, read up on holdback. Make them work for it. As others have said: Stop. Talking. Payments:headbonk:

So go in and tell them you want the invoice price (or pretty close to it)? How about using truecar? After adding the prices with the options I want on the 2017 pricing list, it comes out almost exactly the same as truecar. Although I want a 2016 so it should be a little less. Problem is I may not be able to find one exactly like I want in a 16. It took me a good 4 months, but I finally decided exactly what color and options I want, but it may now be too late since they are no longer making guard or my 2nd choice orange. Another problem with this tactic, is they most likely won't give you a good value on the trade since they aren't making much on the sale, unless you can find a good, honest dealer if there is such a thing.

 

[Medsport]

Talk to Ramsey at Glenn Ford in My. I thought their deal was to good to be true. I made my deal over text and email and phone. Flew down and they honored it and had me out in an hour, I was shocked, dealerships around here use every trick in the book

Did you mean in KY? If so, it does look like they have some good discounts. They don't have anything exactly like I want, but do have an orange with some added options and stripes I don't really want at a decent price.

 

[Charles147]

I love being in Idaho. Its an OPEN CARRY states and when I got to "negotiate" I just happen to wearing my XD.45 in plain view. Takes all the high pressure sales out of the negotiation.

WOW! The fact that you point out having a piece in a sales negotiation like it has some kind of advantage shows how pathetic you are and why so many people such as yourself don't deserve to carry!

 

[DAVECS1]

Did you mean in KY? If so, it does look like they have some good discounts. They don't have anything exactly like I want, but do have an orange with some added options and stripes I don't really want at a decent price.

Yes I meant Kentucky. They gave me the price listed online for the most part. They add a couple fees, but after reviewing the cost breakdown, I think I understand how they are operating at thos low prices. My guess is they just have a flat rate in each price that they use to pay the staff. There was a 599 dealership transaction fee. I am thinking this is the cut that goes to everyone, and then if you finance through them like they prefer the finance guy gets his kickback from the banks.

I showed them what my bank would do if I had to finance a portion of the car. They were able to to do better.

Always be prepared with terms you have arranged for purchase, is my advice. That is what any dealer should have to work towards as a minimum. Not to kention uou also get a feel for the value based on the funding you have put together before bargining for the car.

 

[Mt-82 whine]

I love being in Idaho. Its an OPEN CARRY states and when I got to "negotiate" I just happen to wearing my XD.45 in plain view. Takes all the high pressure sales out of the negotiation.

They tried to get my aunt into a car by asking her "what can you afford". I jumped in and asked how much for the car. They just kept asking her whos buying this car? When they wouldn't answer me after the 3rd time, we walked. Figure about $20-$25 a month for every $1000 financed. This will get you in the ballpark. Then it becomes how long and interest rate.

That has to be the most loser thing I've read on the forums In a while. Talk about compensating for having a fat ***** where you balls should be

 

[Martman GT]

I love how a bunch of you guys say "start at invoice, and go down from there". You may live in a place where dealers are willing to cut into their holdback to sell a car, but that's not the case everywhere. I worked in the Fleet Dept. of a Ford dealership for 4 1/2 years. The holdback money that dealers get is mostly used to cover the cost of interest that they pay on the cars they're purchasing from Ford (this is called flooring). The dealership would use the holdback money from Ford to pay the flooring expense on the current inventory. Ford gives the dealers 90 days free interest, after that, the dealers pay interest to Ford until the vehicle is sold.

We've all seen the threads about the ADM on GT350's, but here in Reno, the local dealerships were adding $2K markup on just the regular GT's. Even knowing that I was in Fleet sales, the local dealers wouldn't come off the $2K markup. I ended up having to go to a dealership in CA to purchase the car for what I wanted to pay which was just under $300 over invoice. I'd love to live in a location where the dealers would negotiate their holdback, just not realistic for everyone.

 

[Medsport]

Yeah I just talked to a local dealer that uses truecar and for my color choices and nav, there was only one car out there and they want 40k for it. I told him to try to build a 17 in lightning blue with only the options I wanted and see what they come up with.

He called back and said about 37k and I almost had him hit send, then I thought about the 0% interest only on the 16's. So I had him do one more search for 16's in more colors and he actually found a guard with the black interior and 3.55 for just about 100 more than the 17 (weird as I thought 17's were more, but probably because it had the trans option and not getting the 250 discount either).

 

[Fatty]

According to the chart, they lied to me then. It doesn't say if its the state you are from or the state you buy it in, but they are both listed in this case. I also already got approved, but why use 2.94% when I can get the 0%? You never know the cost of the car though, unless you do a or x-plan. Thats why I've been scouring the dealership ads and car buying sites for the past few months trying to find the place with the biggest discount or sales price.

Also watch out for 0% financing. When I bought my explorer, Ford offered me 0% but it would have cost me more money. How you ask? I'll tell you. I also got pre approved before walking in to the dealer and had a check in my hand for 2.74% from my credit union. When I agreed to the 0% from ford, cause it's better than 2.74%, what they didn't tell me was the $3,500 in incentives I was getting, was not included with the 0% financing. Of course I caught this trick of theirs and went with the 2.74% from the credit union. The interest was about $1,300 over the course of the loan so I saved $2,200 going with the credit union. Dealers are fast and sneaky. Watch out!

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