friction modifier

[thornclaw]

has any one tried putting this in the engine oil?

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XL-3-Fr...0&sr=1-1-3a65484d-1c95-4bed-b564-9469fdeef107

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[Goterr0r]

Why would someone put an additive for their rear diff into their engine oil.....

 

[SlowyoteJay]

Never heard of anyone putting it in engine oil since it’s for your differential

 

[EFI]

No why would you want to do that? I personally run high quality engine oil and not worry about having to supplement it with any random things.

 

[thornclaw]

should decrease friction, improve mpg and possibly improve engine wear?

 

[EFI]

should decrease friction, improve mpg and possibly improve engine wear?

No, that's not how it works. A quality oil will do all that (and more) without the need for this.

 

[SheepDog]

 

[Goterr0r]

If you want to add something into your engine oil, take a look at Liquid Moly Ceretec. Its made for you engine and not for you rear diff....

I'm not a fan of snake oil products, but this did quite my BBQ tick down quite a bit and lots of other members with some success as well.

 

[308 Cal. Bullitt]

Do not do this.
Yet, if you are one of those people who like to go against the grain, & do things differently than everyone else. Then allow us to aid you in this Friction Modifier endeavor.

Friction Modifier usually comes in 4oz bottles. We prefer the Ford Performance brand. Install 4 bottles, & remove 1 quart of engine oil to maintain a correct fill level in your eng.

Then install that 1 quart of engine oil, from the front of the car,
into the differential,
in the rear of the car. (After removing 1 Qrt from the rear diff of coarse)

This will give you a lower frictional mixture, & a rear differential that stays 'locked up' tighter,
to help deal with all the freed up HP delivered to the rear tires. From both the lower frictional losses of the engine, as well as lower parasitic drag losses in the rearend. Win - Win
Your going to need that tighter ( non slipping clutch pack), with all the extra power delivery.

I would not be disclosing my wearabouts thou, if I were you. This incalculable power increasing 'Indian Trick', may just put more than a few businesses (especially Whipple) in financial jeopardy. Destroying billions in aftermarket revenues.
So much so, THEY will see no choice but to 'drop the dime' on the developer of such an industry revolutionizing hp adder, that it could be a "nuclear type" threat to the entire aftermarket power adder industry.



Ok... Kidding aside, I've had more than a few bizarre ideas that turned out to be against the grain, myself. Mentors & experts often got us lined out in most cases, before we got ourselves in to deep. Yet, not always.

The shear fact that you are THINKING about ways to improve ANYTHING on your car is admirable.
& nobody who ever accomplished anything in life, can say they didn't have a few ideas that sounded good up front.
Realizing later, it wasn't quite the Eureka moment it 1st seemed.

Dont stop thinking & questioning like this though. Asking is the best thing. A lot of people here, can help anyone to avoid headaches & heartache.
Kerp thinking & asking, cuz the older you get, the less your going to be able to use your imagination & creative thinking. Not by choice, but because your own experiences get in the way of looking at old problems that you, or the industry itself, believed it solved long ago...
& you, by default, conclude there are no new ways to get a better outcome.

We once let a Synthetic lubricant Rep at a race convince us to try there latest & greatest, super ultra low viscosity engine oil. For free of course, (& running there brand name via stickers) & they gave us a pallet of 5 gal pales as well, free, to compensate our troubles. Probably $2/3k worth of oil bk then.
It only needed to go about 7.5 seconds under load, from A to B, in the 1/4 mile, plus the burnout.
We put it in for the final qualifying session. It shelled itself at about ~400ft. Eng was destroyed.
This was ~30yrs ago. Sometimes you get caught up in the moment, only to look bk afterwards, & see about 20 reasons why the idea you implemented was -beyond a bad one-, when, in our case, choosing lubrication. I wasn't the guy who wrote the checks on that program, & he made the decision to do it. I should have been the 1 to talk him out of it. I didn't have enough skin in the game on that one to be more vocal. Infact, I was also hoping for an improvement in performance.

Its ok to try to reinvent the wheel, but ask the right pple first, if you want save yourself some grief. Know this.
Expenditure of 'Time & thought', often exceed expenditure of hard earned money.
You cover that correctly on this one.
Keep thinkin & askin. 1 day we'll be asking you!

 

[K4fxd]

We once let a Synthetic lubricant Rep at a race convince us to try there latest & greatest,

Was this RP?

 

[Skye]

has any one tried putting this in the engine oil?

Engineers who fully understand the physical forces and temperatures involved, often with serious education credentials, design lubricants for specific purposes and conditions. The product you referenced was made for diffs and like items, not ICEs.

Stick to a good, quality engine oil that meets manufacturers specs, with a complimenting filter. Videos, articles and tests highlight many great products which will meet design requirements and your interests.

Once you find something, I think it's a good idea to be consistent and stay with that product, versus changing from brand to brand. Perform routine fluid checks while following the maintenance schedule and you'll have all the protection and HP possible.

 

[WD Pro]

If you fancy experimenting with alternative uses for Fords friction modifier, may I suggest baking ?

The stuff has an absolutely wonderful aroma, I can only imagine how impressed the wife would be if she was to come home to a house and oven smelling of this stuff ...

WD

Found my new favourite car smell (not) ...

Here is what smelt wonderful following its usage :

• The house (left the top of the empty bottle).
• The clothes I worked in (wiping fingers on my pants and hoodie).
• The outside bin (paper towels).
• The inside bin (the little foil top seal from the bottle).
• The dish cloth (from washing my hands, even though I cleaned them off outside).
• The garage (syringe, even though it's been emptied and wiped down).

The biggest mistake I made was getting caught leaving the patio door open and the extractor on in the kitchen to try and clear the smell from the house before she arrived home, she knew that I knew it must have smelt bad ...

Now the misses has got the smell up her nose, she's even moaning that the washing machine smells of it after putting my clothes and the dish cloth through a wash cycle (with Flash APC in the drum) ...

WD

 

[thornclaw]

well i thought instead of duralube/slick 50/motorkote why not try a motorcraft product instead? i just dont know if it works in the engine

 

[Skye]

well i thought instead of duralube/slick 50/motorkote why not try a motorcraft product instead? i just dont know if it works in the engine

If you're partial to Motorcraft, you can stick with that brand for engine oil; they sell blend and full synthetics.

But to use a differential friction modifier in an ICE...that would be a no-go.

Using a diff friction modifier in an ICE akin to using a socket wrench when you need a screwdriver. Risk? Engine damage. Advantage? 0. The physical properties of the modifier are not designed for use in an ICE.

 

[5doorsoffury]

As others have said friction modifier is for clutch packs. whether there in the trannys syncros or the rear diff. It's just stable fluid that has a different coeff of friction. Idk if it modifies viscosity but since its only 1 fluid to mix into a variety of liquids id say yes.

You can accomplish the same thing by adding a thinner oil to the motor. and that is as useless as that ford fluid is outside of a clutch pack.

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