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rozay

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rozay

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apex15stangPP

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You don't have to, but it's best. It a pain in the butt cutting the old bushings off! And takes far to long.. Lol but a great great mod and helps the feel of the car
 

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Syracuse315

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You don't have to, but it's best. It a pain in the butt cutting the old bushings off! And takes far to long.. Lol but a great great mod and helps the feel of the car
Not too much of a "free mod" to the PP crowd then. Think I may stick with just doing the rear sway bar (planning on Strano at the moment), unless I can be convinced otherwise.
 

gsxr1300

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Kelly

If I had the sway bar on the second softest setting and the endlink in the rear strut hole and then changed the endlink into the front strut hole would this effect the tension on the sway bar?
 

jgedde

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I'm confused... So why is this mod not as good for PP cars? Why do the bushings need to be cut off?

I understand the bar needs to be rotated to access the bar end for drilling and can't on PP cars, but won't just removing the sway bar for drilling work instead?

Once it's put back on, why are the limited-rotation bushings an issue?

Thanks,
John
 

apex15stangPP

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I'm confused... So why is this mod not as good for PP cars? Why do the bushings need to be cut off?

I understand the bar needs to be rotated to access the bar end for drilling and can't on PP cars, but won't just removing the sway bar for drilling work instead?

Once it's put back on, why are the limited-rotation bushings an issue?

Thanks,
John
Yes sticky or glued bushings are a bad thing! Ford does it so they don't have to run as big of bar and it helps some with straight line, but creates fake bar rate in the sway bar and can actually build up energy and unload unexpectedly. You want your sway bars as free as possible!!! I also recommend upgrading your rear bushing with a energy or some kind of aftermarket bushing that is grease-able that will free the rear up as well.
 

VoodooBear

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This is not simple, and unless you have a nice drill press and a good set of drill bits, not free.

I don't know if the non-PP bar is thinner or softer (different part numbers between it and the PP one suggest so), but I see no way of doing this with the bar on the car on a PP. And even if you do take it out, you will not be able to do this in any reasonable amount of time with a hand drill. Took me the better part of a day to drill two holes using a drill press and good bits. If you ask me, not worth it. Just go with an aftermarket bar.
 

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fordguys550

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what a bitchin idea! I got to do this
 

DocWalt

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I did this mod to my car, pretty noticeable difference for a free mod! It only cost me $16 for two drill bits, I used some Bosch bits intended for drilling steel and even with lube and proper drilling technique it took me a couple of hours and wore out both drill bits...
 

ColdShotxx

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Thanks, this worked out great. Granted, my bar was out and I was working with it in my lap, but it only took me about 20 minutes. Being able to lean on it it with body weight at absolute slowest rpm. My $19 dewalt cobalt bit dulled instantly, however, I had a cheapo Ryobi drill bit, and it cut through like butter. Its the titanium one that they include in all their kits.
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