Free front swaybar mod

[DR_]

When Ford put the front swaybar endlink hole at the rear they gave us a lot of room to drill new endlink holes in it (attachment 1). What I've done by mounting the endlinks more towards the front is increases the roll bar stiffness. Unfortunately this makes the endlink not vertical to the swaybar which gives back some of that added stiffness. Luckily Ford gave us an unused swaybar endlink mount on the strut that fixes this and again gives the endlink the proper geometry (attachment 2).
This steel is thick so use the proper drill bits and drill slowly and use WD40 or some other cutting agent to keep the temps down. I use smaller bits and then increase the size to ½”.

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[BMR Tech]

Very good post. I thought about making one similar, as we did this right when we got the car to do testing with.

If you will give me the distance you moved the hole inboard, I can tell you what your bar rate is now ;)

All you need now is a set of our end links we are about to release. They're badass.

 

[gsxr1300]

cool idea!

should you move the top end link top the other hole when using an adjustable sway bar?

 

[Ryan1112]

Did you take the sway bar out to drill the holes?

 

[DR_]

Very good post. I thought about making one similar, as we did this right when we got the car to do testing with.

If you will give me the distance you moved the hole inboard, I can tell you what your bar rate is now ;)

All you need now is a set of our end links we are about to release. They're badass.

I plan on your rear bar next.

cool idea!

should you move the top end link top the other hole when using an adjustable sway bar?

Depends on the adjustable sway bar. If it is long enough to keep it horizontal and the end links vertical on the original mount then I would go with that. Adjustable end links could also help keep the geometry correct.

Did you take the sway bar out to drill the holes?

No. Just disconnect the end links on both sides and moved the sway bar up as far as will go which gives a good angle to drill. Now if I had a nice drill press I might take it off but I just did it with a handheld drill.

 

[Ryan1112]

So did you notice a difference?

 

[DR_]

So did you notice a difference?

Absolutely. It is similar to changing the steering from normal to sport I feel the increased resistance, but the resistance is from the stiffer roll bar setting instead of less electronic power steering.

 

[WKT]

What is the measurement between the center of the old hole and the center of the new hole.

 

[DR_]

If you will give me the distance you moved the hole inboard, I can tell you what your bar rate is now ;)
.

What is the measurement between the center of the old hole and the center of the new hole.

2"

 

[RSKTAKR]

So you drilled 1/2" holes 2" away from the stock hole locations in the sway bar AND you relocated the other end of the end link to an unused location on the struts?

 

[DR_]

So you drilled 1/2" holes 2" away from the stock hole locations in the sway bar AND you relocated the other end of the end link to an unused location on the struts?

Correct.

 

[BMR Tech]

If you extended the hole to 2" further inboard, you shortened the effective lever arm length about 1.75"....and you added over 200lb/in to the bar.

With your new mod, you new bar rate is approximately 870lb/in.

 

[RSKTAKR]

that is awesome lol.. I was watching the install of the CJ pony parts springs and saw the 2nd bracket OP mentions mounted about 90 degrees counter clockwise of where Ford mounts the other end of the end link. I will be doing this soon.

 

[Ryan1112]

30% increase over stock. Pretty substantial.

 

[DR_]

So this is about the same as the 35mm BMR front bar on its softest setting, which was my goal. I'll probably buy some Energy Suspension 32mm poly bushings to round out this mod.

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