Ford Performance Shifter Noise

[Boddie]

I recently installed the Ford Performance short shift kit on my 15 GT and can't get rid of some awful NVH. The knob vibrates a little bit, but that is pale in comparison to this noise that sounds hollow almost like there is an exhaust leak right under the shift housing. If I pull up on the lockout collar it doesn't make it any better just gives the sound a slightly different tone. We double checked the install to ensure everything was put together correctly. All I can think of is that maybe its the change of design to the white part with clips that got replaced with the black piece with some set screws. We checked the exhaust and than even replaced it with a solo mach IV as well hoping the louder exhaust would just drown it out. Didn't seem to work. Do others have this issue with this short shift kit?

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[Elp_jc]

Added NVH is an unfortunate side effect of such shifters. Hopefully somebody else can give you specific info on the FP unit, but there might be a way to quiet down a little. That's typically done by reusing the stock insulation, modified to fit the new shifter. Does yours have one at all? Without that thick rubbery piece, it's almost like if you didn't have anything. That's why I made sure I liked the shifter before buying the Bullitt, and I do . Luckily, for me, I buy manuals for the enjoyment of the driving experience, and not to bang shifts like there's no tomorrow. Operated sedately, the MT-82 D4 is one of the best manual transmissions I've owned. Hopefully you can make your FP shifter work better for you. Good luck.

 

[Boddie]

That's typically done by reusing the stock insulation, modified to fit the new shifter. Does yours have one at all? Without that thick rubbery piece, it's almost like if you didn't have anything.

The FRPP short shifter just replaces the shifter arm, collar, and some bushing. The rubber boot and insulation are still there as the housing is the same.

Well to update for the FRPP short shifter, it actually started causing some more annoyances over time. The reverse collar started to rattle really bad and started to add more of an "airy" noise that would go away when lifting up on the reverse lockout that wasn't there before. This is similar to what others have said elsewhere on this forum. The rubber boot and white ring over the spring on the shifter arm were still there as well. Since I broke the shifter bezel after taking it off so many times I ordered a new one and the Barton aluminum collar and installed that. The opening on the collar of the OEM reverse lockout collar is sort of shaped like an oval and doesn't fit on the shifter arm that well which I think attributes to the rattle since it allows some movement. The Barton one is round with a rubber o-ring and doesn't have the same slop. The OEM one also has some openings on the inner side which let in more volume and this "airy" sound as well. The Barton got rid of the rattle and the "airy" sound that was caused by the collar.

The "hollow" sound I described in the original post is still there but its muted a bit with the different lockout collar now. I wonder if that is due to the hard bushing installed with the FRPP shifter. I thought about throwing some sound insulation in there but not sure if that would help. At this point I am willing to live with it since the later introduced sounds were so much worse and are resolved now.

As a note, the reason I installed this shifter was 1) to hopefully fix an issue I had with missing 3rd gear and hitting the gate during aggressive driving (Maybe Blowfish shifter support bracket would have worked as well?), and 2) to just shorten the throw a bit. This shifter did accomplish these fortunately... just needed some extra modding to not be irritating.

To anyone looking to purchase this, you may have better luck and be less irritated getting something like the MGW from reviews that are all over this forum. I tried to save a penny and regret it a bit now and don't want to take this apart or off again. If anyone insists on getting this FRPP part, be sure to also get the Barton aluminum reverse lockout collar.

 

[DRU842]

I solved the lockout rattle by installing the metal Steeda unit.

 

[green97probe]

I just installed the Ford Performance shifter in my 2018 GT.

I left the stock bushings in the front mount of the shifter, because I didn't want the NVH that the metal bushings in the kit would transmit.

I also reused the stock rear bracket.

There's some minor NVH that wasn't present with the stock shifter, but it's not bothering me.

I like the lower knob height and feel of the Ford Performance shifter.

I did the install with the car on jack stands, and I didn't remove the exhaust or driveshaft. A 10mm 1/4" drive swivel socket and extension s made it possible.

 

[D Bergstrom]

I had the Ford shifter on my 2017 GT. I also installed the Steeda rear bracket and bushing, and the Steeda transmission bushing insert. NVH was horrible, so bad that after only 50 miles I jacked the car up and removed the transmission insert. Even without the insert, there was still a good amount of NVH. I ended up getting a 12” square piece of dynamat, removing the center console, and adding dynamat all around the shifter on the trans tunnel. After searching Ebay, I found a piece of shifter insulation (I think it was from a Mazda Miata?) and installed that also. Noise was greatly reduced, but was still noticeable. Traded in the 2017 and purchased a 2020 and will be installing a short throw shifter. If I do go with the Ford one again, think I will leave the bushing in the front and just the OEM rear bushing, and probably still, add some dynamat.

Doug

 

[NoVaGT]

This thread has me remembering my 2005 GT.

Remembering the way the shifter moved around under differing loads. I thought it was pretty cool.

 

[NGOT8R]

Have you tried putting a piece of rubber inside of the shift knob? My Steeda race shifter came with a piece of rubber about 5/16 O.D. I also cut and reinstalled the factory inner boot, plus added Dynamat and the stock insulation on top of that. I don’t know how much NVH there will be, but I have to believe there will be some reduction.

 

[raab02]

Bumping this thread as I just got done installing this kit along with a DSS 1pc aluminum driveshaft. I've been running the Blowfish Racing Bracket since day 1. I was worried about driveshaft vibration imbalance, but that turned out fine.

I wasn't expecting this level of NVH from the shifter. My car sounds like in-car footage from some of the endurance racing I've watched recently. My Raceseng lockout and shifter knob didn't quell the lockout rattle as much as I hoped so that's still there, too.

I really, really, REALLY don't want to uninstall the exhaust and driveshaft and and shifter again, so I'll be trying everything I can from inside the car, which amounts to:

• Removing knob and lockout and lockout collar and applying heat-shrink and O-rings and grease wherever I can to quiet that down.
• Checking that the OEM boot is installed correctly. It seems like mine may be "leaking" noise into the cabin.
• Applying Dynamat to the shifter area as outlined above (and in other threads for MGW, etc.. one poster in this thread suggests lead sheeting: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/heavy-nvh-from-new-steeda-shifter.127771/page-3)

Anyway, just checking in to see if anyone else has had luck quieting down this shifter.

 

[NGOT8R]

@raab02, try checking the counterweight on the right side of the transmission. I am convinced that the source of the noise is coming from that area. If you just grab it and shake it you’ll see what I mean. There are a couple of members on here that have removed it and installed a Calimer block-off plate.

 

[raab02]

@raab02, try checking the counterweight on the right side of the transmission. I am convinced that the source of the noise is coming from that area. If you just grab it and shake it you’ll see what I mean. There are a couple of members on here that have removed it and installed a Calimer block-off plate.

Interesting, and thanks much for the tip. Hadn't considered that, but also can't picture it offhand. I did some googling and don't see anything that looks counterweight-y.

Got a pic? I searched and see lots of discussion around Calimer at large but not the plate.

Finally, is removal something that can be done without dropping exhaust and DS again? Driveways and Jackstands is a fun idea for a t-shirt but it does get old.

 

[NGOT8R]

Interesting, and thanks much for the tip. Hadn't considered that, but also can't picture it offhand. I did some googling and don't see anything that looks counterweight-y.

Got a pic? I searched and see lots of discussion around Calimer at large but not the plate.

Finally, is removal something that can be done without dropping exhaust and DS again? Driveways and Jackstands is a fun idea for a t-shirt but it does get old.

Here’s a pic. It rattles a whole lot. One member here said he removed his by removing the transmission cross member and lowering the tranny a bit (which is doable without dropping the driveshaft). Crawl under there and give it a wiggle and see how much it rattles and you’ll be surprised.

 

[raab02]

Here’s a pic. It rattles a whole lot. One member here said he removed his by removing the transmission cross member and lowering the tranny a bit (which is doable without dropping the driveshaft). Crawl under there and give it a wiggle and see how much it rattles and you’ll be surprised.

Thanks very much, that's helpful. I actually ended up finding that other thread via Google Image search too, thanks to your pic.

I may end up experimenting with it at some point, but the other thing I turned up worth looking into is the idea that the shifter body may be contacting the tunnel or cut out under load. THis would explain some of the specific noises occurring at only certain RPM or during hard pulls.

A few folks report success with moving the crossmember a smidge so that the shfter doesn't foul on the cutout here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/shifter-rattle-even-with-mgw.135381/page-2

 

[thunderstrike]

Try a lock washer.

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