First oil change complete - my notes

[MCarsFan]

I have just completed my first oil change and have the following notes/tips for people who might be interested:

Lifting:

* Standard 56" or 67" race ramps do not clear the splitter. You need to purchase the extension.
* With the extension, the standard height of 8" is not enough to be able to reach to the drain plug.
* I have built a platform (see pictures) which the ramps were put on top of which raised the lift by 1.5-2". This allowed me to reach to the drain plug but still it was an extremely tight fit.
* I couldn't use my creeper (which is the lowest creeper out there) and on my back sliding back and forth was very difficult. There is no way I can do this easily every 3,000 miles so I am considering investing for a nice scissor (quick jack). Yes you can use jack stands but that requires you to lift the car a lot on one side, I really dont like doing that while one side is on those tiny pinch welds. Personal opinion. But my recommendation is to pay for a scissor lift.

Oil Change:

* Pincing a hole in the filter didn't really help. I drained maybe half a quart, but when I started unscrewing the filter, I still made a big mess. The oil went over the plastic under carriage and I had to spend a lot of time cleaning it.
* I had a lot of orange color (maybe copper) particles on my oil. Possibly normal, I hope its not rod bearings wearing out.
* 18 ft/lb isnt that difficult to obtain in the tight clearance provided. I thought it was going to be very difficult after watching the youtube videos, but tightening it wasnt that difficult.
* I recommend a high quality (I have AC Delco) low torque (3/8") wrench.
* The oil drain plug is really easy to come off and put back on. I am surprised it stays in place and can keep up with all the rattling and g forces this car has.
* After changing the oil, drive the car, and check the oil filter. I expect to do a few 8200 rpm runs and retorque it after 100 miles or so.
* Do not open the oil cap before draining the oil. Oil drains so fast as it is, open the cap later.
* You need a long funnel as the oil cap sits at an angle
* The dipstick is not very easy to use as its difficult to reach it due to the engine/strut brace.
* The filter wrench socket I got was very good providing very tight fit and no slippage. Even with oil on the filter, it had no issues grabbing the filter and tightening to spec. This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMOL8T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck!

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[J_Maher_AMG]

Quick question, where'd you get that oil filter wrench socket? Looks like it has raised ridges in each corner which looks like would help greatly in getting a snug fit on the oil filter. I tried the whole paper-towel on the inside of mine, but the dam socket gets on there so tight its literally very difficult to get it back off of the filter lol

Agreed that punching a hole in the filter (I drilled a hole in mine) didn't help as much as I would have liked. I managed to still drain it enough so that it didn't make a mess, but nowhere near all of the oil came out of the filter after putting a hole in it.

 

[stang302]

This is the one I got. Works great, fits tight with no slippage.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014EN4HSO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[MCarsFan]

Oh yes, this is something I forgot to mention and maybe this is the reason why I havent had difficulty loosening/tightening to the spec. It is from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMOL8T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will update the first post as well.

 

[TheDeadCow]

Oh yes, this is something I forgot to mention and maybe this is the reason why I havent had difficulty loosening/tightening to the spec. It is from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMOL8T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will update the first post as well.

Well, at least you listened to my advice with the filter wrench

 

[Darkane]

Is that really your car?

Jokes, nice tips.

 

[btown93]

In order to keep the oil from getting everywhere, I use a flattened cereal box, and sort of put it up under the oil filter adaptor, and sort of make it u-shaped (bend it the long way) and it stays up there pretty good. not as nice as one of those fancy plastic form-a funnels, but it keeps the oil from getting on the undercover.

 

[firestarter2]

Yeah if I spend money on race ramps and still have to futz with wood id be very annoyed. Solution looks simple enough though.

 

[Sprintamx]

I'm assuming you did, but did you drain the oil from the pan before removing the filter?

Some folks have had success with placing a bag around the filter before removal.

 

[Blue Raptor]

The small trash bag over the oil filter during removal works way better than the poke a hole in the filter method.

 

[Blue Raptor]

Yeah if I spend money on race ramps and still have to futz with wood id be very annoyed. Solution looks simple enough though.

Granted there was not a plethora of extra room and I have no beer belly, but I had no problems with my oil change just using the race ramps.

 

[ThreeFiveO]

I'm still skeptical. Tell ya what. Close hood and lay pruning shears on hood. Then repost.
I tried the hole drilled in the filter on the 1000 mile change with little success.
I'm at 3000 now and thinking about the second change soon but with the bag around the filter this time. I jacked each side up onto a 4' long chunk of 8x8 beam but am probably going to wind up with a 4 post jack in the future.
Not much clearance under these things!

 

[MCarsFan]

I took 2 long drives and checked the filter, I am observing a small drop of oil at the tip of the filter (To be fair, when I looked at the filter for the first time, the stock one, it had something similar, oil residue). I have checked the torque, dead set on 18 ft/lb.

 

[MCarsFan]

I'm still skeptical. Tell ya what. Close hood and lay pruning shears on hood. Then repost.
I tried the hole drilled in the filter on the 1000 mile change with little success.
I'm at 3000 now and thinking about the second change soon but with the bag around the filter this time. I jacked each side up onto a 4' long chunk of 8x8 beam but am probably going to wind up with a 4 post jack in the future.
Not much clearance under these things!

I think the problem is when you pinch a hole, we are not going deep enough. I didnt want to risk it though because I was using a philip head screw driver and didnt want to hit the threads.

That access door is way too small btw. It should be just 1-1.5 inches taller.

I have to be honest though I really liked the metal threaded filter. I have never used such filter before as all my previous cars used an insert filter with a screwing cap on top. While they are not as messy, the metal ones like the Mustang are far more secure and redundant. With the plastic screw caps, they eventually wear out and you have to change the o-rings (usually 3 of them).

 

[ThreeFiveO]

I drilled too small of a hole the first go around. I also got a bit of oil into my drill. I think one blow with a sharp awl would work better but the bag will be next for me. I tightened my filter without a torque wrench but overdid it due to the fear of loosening. I check for leaks about once a week. Agreed the access door could've been bigger.
My Tundra has a cartridge filter and the skid plate has to be dropped beforehand so as bad as the 350 changes sound it could be worse. Dipstick location could be better as well.
Mine has also burned about 3/4 quart of oil in 2000 miles but that's another story for another day.

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