False knock? Looking for help.

[dead_inside]

I’m chasing false knock after install of a G2 kit and am curious if anyone could shed some light on a few things I’ve noticed. I will try to keep everything on target and provide data. I very much appreciate anyone’s time and experience, so just let me know if you would like pictures or more info.

Installed:
ESS G2 w/ G3 intercooler (125mm/6.5psi pulley)
ID1050x injectors
VMP BAP
NGK 6510 gapped to 0.028

Other engine mods:
FRPP passenger side catch can

Round 1 of logging: (Round 1 attachment)
92 pump gas
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500

Round 2 of logging: (Round 2 attachment)
92 pump gas
Can of VP Unleaded Octanium
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500

Round 3 of logging: (Round 3 attachment)
92 pump gas
6 gallons of 100 octane
Added padding between bumper and intercooler
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500 (Had to let off early on log 14)

Steps I've done:
OEM headers and OEM exhaust but I've hit it with a rubber mallet just in case and heard nothing that sounded like rattling.
Made sure all clamps were not touching anything. Made note of precautions others made to prevent this and followed during my install.
Added foam padding between intercooler and lower grill insert. This appeared to make the most improvement. I had my only minus knock log after this change (log 13).

The knock is progressive, it’s always higher in the later pulls. I think that would be odd for a vibration causing false knock. Thinking about what could be different in the later pulls, my mind could only think of heat. So I made sure to let IATs and CHTs return to normal before logging the second and third pulls. No one else is reporting false knock with this kit, the silicon charge pipes were attractive to me about this kit for that reason. Tuner has asked if I want to disable the knock sensors and this is just a street car running pump gas, so I really want to avoid that. I will chase false knock until its resolved. I just want to make sure I am not overlooking something else.

Thank you to everyone willing to help!

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[WildHorse]

Why are so many parameters not logged ?

 

[dead_inside]

Why are so many parameters not logged ?

I followed the the instructions for logging. It’s a Lund nGauge and I select the 2011+ when recording. I have been submitting logs and nothing was mentioned to me about them missing parameters.

More data the better though. So if there’s something I can do, I would love to know

Edit: I have a gen 2 PP car, so it’s a stick. I know that would mean the shifting parameters would be absent

 

[Zrussian13]

I followed the the instructions for logging. It’s a Lund nGauge and I select the 2011+ when recording. I have been submitting logs and nothing was mentioned to me about them missing parameters.

More data the better though. So if there’s something I can do, I would love to know

Edit: I have a gen 2 PP car, so it’s a stick. I know that would mean the shifting parameters would be absent

Are you turning advance trac off when doing pulls?

 

[WildHorse]

Edit: I have a gen 2 PP car, so it’s a stick. I know that would mean the shifting parameters would be absent

Oh LUND tune eh ? Well I was looking at it with VCM. That would explain it. LUND likes there little secrets. Anyways. 2 runs you had log 13 & Log 14 was adding timing (93 + 6gals of 100 octane). I don't think it's false knock. If I could see the missing parameters, it'd give me a better idea.

 

[dead_inside]

Are you turning advance trac off when doing pulls?

Yes sir. I disable traction control AND advance-trac with the additional 10 second hold of the switch

 

[dead_inside]

I don't think it's false knock. If I could see the missing parameters, it'd give me a better idea.

I hear ya and that’s my fault for making multiple changes at once between logs. I would think that the octane booster would have made some improvement then but the logs didn’t reflect that. That third pull after the 100 octane (log 15) had no timing added, timing was even being pulled. All 3 pulls in round 3 were done with CHTs at 198.

I’ll have to fill up with 92 and compare where the knock is with the padding for the intercooler in place now

 

[Chef jpd]

What type of rear tranny mount are you using?
I had a Boomba a race and the vibration from the mount triggered massive false knock signals, killed my power.
Stock mount refitted, POWER!!!

 

[dead_inside]

What type of rear tranny mount are you using?

OEM but I do have a blowfish bracket. I will be getting the car up again this coming weekend and have added checking it to my list. Thank you!

 

[Jake19gt10r80]

I’m chasing false knock after install of a G2 kit and am curious if anyone could shed some light on a few things I’ve noticed. I will try to keep everything on target and provide data. I very much appreciate anyone’s time and experience, so just let me know if you would like pictures or more info.

Installed:
ESS G2 w/ G3 intercooler (125mm/6.5psi pulley)
ID1050x injectors
VMP BAP
NGK 6510 gapped to 0.028

Other engine mods:
FRPP passenger side catch can

Round 1 of logging: (Round 1 attachment)
92 pump gas
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500

Round 2 of logging: (Round 2 attachment)
92 pump gas
Can of VP Unleaded Octanium
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500

Round 3 of logging: (Round 3 attachment)
92 pump gas
6 gallons of 100 octane
Added padding between bumper and intercooler
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500 (Had to let off early on log 14)

Steps I've done:
OEM headers and OEM exhaust but I've hit it with a rubber mallet just in case and heard nothing that sounded like rattling.
Made sure all clamps were not touching anything. Made note of precautions others made to prevent this and followed during my install.
Added foam padding between intercooler and lower grill insert. This appeared to make the most improvement. I had my only minus knock log after this change (log 13).

The knock is progressive, it’s always higher in the later pulls. I think that would be odd for a vibration causing false knock. Thinking about what could be different in the later pulls, my mind could only think of heat. So I made sure to let IATs and CHTs return to normal before logging the second and third pulls. No one else is reporting false knock with this kit, the silicon charge pipes were attractive to me about this kit for that reason. Tuner has asked if I want to disable the knock sensors and this is just a street car running pump gas, so I really want to avoid that. I will chase false knock until its resolved. I just want to make sure I am not overlooking something else.

Thank you to everyone willing to help!

I’m chasing false knock after install of a G2 kit and am curious if anyone could shed some light on a few things I’ve noticed. I will try to keep everything on target and provide data. I very much appreciate anyone’s time and experience, so just let me know if you would like pictures or more info.

Installed:
ESS G2 w/ G3 intercooler (125mm/6.5psi pulley)
ID1050x injectors
VMP BAP
NGK 6510 gapped to 0.028

Other engine mods:
FRPP passenger side catch can

Round 1 of logging: (Round 1 attachment)
92 pump gas
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500

Round 2 of logging: (Round 2 attachment)
92 pump gas
Can of VP Unleaded Octanium
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500

Round 3 of logging: (Round 3 attachment)
92 pump gas
6 gallons of 100 octane
Added padding between bumper and intercooler
3rd gear pull from 3k to 6500 (Had to let off early on log 14)

Steps I've done:
OEM headers and OEM exhaust but I've hit it with a rubber mallet just in case and heard nothing that sounded like rattling.
Made sure all clamps were not touching anything. Made note of precautions others made to prevent this and followed during my install.
Added foam padding between intercooler and lower grill insert. This appeared to make the most improvement. I had my only minus knock log after this change (log 13).

The knock is progressive, it’s always higher in the later pulls. I think that would be odd for a vibration causing false knock. Thinking about what could be different in the later pulls, my mind could only think of heat. So I made sure to let IATs and CHTs return to normal before logging the second and third pulls. No one else is reporting false knock with this kit, the silicon charge pipes were attractive to me about this kit for that reason. Tuner has asked if I want to disable the knock sensors and this is just a street car running pump gas, so I really want to avoid that. I will chase false knock until its resolved. I just want to make sure I am not overlooking something else.

Thank you to everyone willing to help!

I'm having issues also. Mine is 5th gear and on. 4th gear is good then 5th gear comes and faster I go the more knock I get. I've seen up to 6 degrees. I'm on 93 Oct with a can of octanium.

 

[dead_inside]

I had a Boomba a race and the vibration from the mount triggered massive false knock signals, killed my power.
Stock mount refitted, POWER!!!

I’m assuming you were logging to see the knock activity. Out of curiosity, was it consistent or progressive for you? What I mean is the later pulls always have more knock activity than the earlier pulls for me. I would think a vibration would be consistent from pull to pull

 

[dead_inside]

I'm having issues also. Mine is 5th gear and on. 4th gear is good then 5th gear comes and faster I go the more knock I get. I've seen up to 6 degrees. I'm on 93 Oct with a can of octanium.

You’re a gen 3 car but I will be posting my efforts and reporting my findings. It may be helpful, so check back

 

[WildHorse]

I’ll have to fill up with 92 and compare where the knock is with the padding for the intercooler in place now

The knock is right when you go WOT. Log 13 & 14 is -3 knock. Log 15 is +1.5-ish knock as compared to the others with +6. Shows 22.5 degree timing caps on all of them. So +6 knock would make sense . I'm betting the last log in 100 octane where it showed +1.5 was that 100 octane being used up or not being mixed. Or you added 92.

 

[dead_inside]

The knock is right when you go WOT. Log 13 & 14 is -3 knock. Log 15 is +1.5-ish knock as compared to the others with +6. Shows 22.5 degree timing caps on all of them. So +6 knock would make sense . I'm betting the last log in 100 octane where it showed +1.5 was that 100 octane being used up or not being mixed. Or you added 92.

I really appreciate the deep dive! All 3 pulls in round 3 were same fuel, about 5-10 mins between each one to allow temps to come down. CHTs get up to about 208 after a full 3rd gear pull. I still have OEM cats, so I wanted to allow some time to not risk melting them too. That's just a fear of mine from reading some threads here, I'll work on a solution for that after I get this figured out. I'm sure we still have crappy winter blend fuel here too

 

[WildHorse]

I really appreciate the deep dive! All 3 pulls in round 3 were same fuel, about 5-10 mins between each one to allow temps to come down. CHTs get up to about 208 after a full 3rd gear pull. I still have OEM cats, so I wanted to allow some time to not risk melting them too. That's just a fear of mine from reading some threads here, I'll work on a solution for that after I get this figured out. I'm sure we still have crappy winter blend fuel here too

forgot to mention the knock stays maxed until you let off as well. If it was false like something banging away you'd see up & down in the knock graph. Even if you expand the graph you don't see that. I'd do a log in neutral, slow rev to 3k, then floor it to 6.5k.

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