Extended warranties/protection

[Tomster]

Most warranties/coverages are refundable.

Here is what I do. Decline gap. Get the bumper to bumper that is commensurate with the amount of miles you will use. A full term 8 year warranty with 36k miles is only a little over 1k. If you have the ford TireCare warranty and you have CF wheels, it is a no brainer. What else is there that needs to be discussed in case i missed something?

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[Jasonsynaptic]

Most warranties/coverages are refundable.

Here is what I do. Decline gap. Get the bumper to bumper that is commensurate with the amount of miles you will use. A full term 8 year warranty with 36k miles is only a little over 1k. If you have the ford TireCare warranty and you have CF wheels, it is a no brainer. What else is there that needs to be discussed in case i missed something?

Thanks! Most of these were not through Ford, but through "third" party companies owned by the dealership. Definitely didn't do my homework and need to find out if CF wheels are even covered properly. Def think that 8 year warranty is the way to go. Now, if I can just get them to return my calls. There were a couple of really ridiculous add-ons that they snuck in that I missed like 5 anti-bacteria treatments in the next 5 years for $520.

 

[Tomster]

Thanks! Most of these were not through Ford, but through "third" party companies owned by the dealership. Definitely didn't do my homework and need to find out if CF wheels are even covered properly. Def think that 8 year warranty is the way to go. Now, if I can just get them to return my calls. There were a couple of really ridiculous add-ons that they snuck in that I missed like 5 anti-bacteria treatments in the next 5 years for $520.

If its not a ford warranty, cancel.

I dont know where you are at, but look at flood ford for bumper to bumper. Its the best alternative to buying your extended warranty through ford and your dealership.

You really should carry a bumper to bumper warranty for the GT350 for as long as you can.

 

[Jasonsynaptic]

Yup, Flood seems to be the consensus!

 

[MandoGt350R]

Or use that 8k towards a blower.

 

[Jasonsynaptic]

Or use that 8k towards a blower.

Blower?

 

[lightrules]

Blower?

supercharger...but my hunch is you arent ready to do that to your new HEP R...

 

[Jasonsynaptic]

Ah..that's what I thought. Yeah....not yet.

 

[KENS550TX]

I'll be in the market for an extended warranty before my 3/36 is up and I've been checking prices on all the forum recommended dealers selling these warranties. In my case, Anderson and Koch were over $500 cheaper than Flood Ford for the same warranty. I guess that makes me the fourth to point you in that direction. Mostly I just thought I would mention that it pays to shop around.

There are lots of good threads on this forum regarding this topic. I've learned quite a bit from people who are much more knowledgeable on this subject than me.

But don't sweat it to much, just get your refund and shop elsewhere. Enjoy that sweet new ride.

Which plan is everyone going with? Powertrain, Base, Extra or Premium? And the reason why if possible. Thanks in advance!!!!

 

[Tomster]

Or use that 8k towards a blower.

And then you won't need an extended warranty anymore. Lol

 

[Cobra Jet]

Here’s some more info that I posted a while back regarding the ESP’s...

ESP’s (Ford or 3rd Party) is a “sale”, it’s extra $$$ bagged by the Seller (Ford and it’s Dealership Sales Team) and most consumers just don’t read what is being offered for the $$$. They just hear “extended warranty” and think the plan starts AFTER the 3/36 and 5/60 expires, not true.

—-

I have an extended warranty (Up to 120k miles) that was offered through my Credit Union. It’s a Nationwide Warranty accepted by Ford and many other vehicle manufacturers. It offers the same coverage as the Ford ESP’s with same deductibles.

The only reason I opted for it is because:
1) My weekly distance traveled is 500mi, excluding any weekend driving.
2) I expect to own the vehicle longer than 5 years.

Why the above two facts matter most:
1) I’ll have burned through the factory 3/36 faster than most.
2) If owning the car longer than 5 years, I’ll have also burned up the factory 5/60 Powertrain Warranty.

At that point, I’ll still have a buffer after the 60k (2/60) to cover any possible issues (if any).

So for ME (and folks in a similar position), an extended warranty is well worth the money. For folks who mothball their vehicles or barely use them, an extended warranty is pointless, as that type of owner may not ever use or kill the warranty with accrued miles, but by the time something does fail on their ride, the “years” part of the warranty would have expired far sooner than accrued miles...

Another thing to know (most don’t):
A) The factory 5/60 Powertrain covers the engine, trans and the rear. If you read the actual coverage, it’s a very good comprehensive warranty EVEN AFTER the 3/36 has expired.

B) As previously mentioned, the Ford ESP (and most others) run concurrently with the factory 3/36 and 5/60. Meaning, if you have an ESP and the vehicle is still under the 3/36 OR 5/60, the factory warranty takes precedence over the ESP. So think of it this way, if a person buys a 7/75k ESP, in the end they’re really only buying a 2/15.... is that money well spent? NO... because 2 years or 15k after the 5/60 will be zapped pretty quickly.

C) With B above in mind, if buying an ESP (be it Ford or any 3rd party), if you’re going to keep the car longer than 5 years, opt for the longest term ESP. I think the longest term avail currently through Ford is the 8/150k... Essentially again, you would be buying a 3/90, since the ESP would kick in AFTER the 5/60 expired.


Gotta watch what is being sold to you regarding any ESP. Also it’s not what is covered in those plans, it what is NOT covered, so read ALL of the FINE PRINT. Many people think because they bought an ESP, they’re free and clear of owing any $$$ for a so called “warranty” repair.... then get whammied with a repair bill because their ESP didn’t cover certain parts or labor that was outlined in the fine print.

—-

GAP Ins covers the delta between what is owed and what ACV is IF there is a total loss claim. So if you paid cash for your vehicle and have the title - GAP is obviously a pointless decision. If you financed the vehicle and say original price paid was $70k, the vehicle has depreciated, it’s gets stolen or wrecked - and now you only paid down to $60k at that point. The Ins. Co. will only pay out $50k based on their ACV evaluation. That remaining $10k is still due to the Financial Institution, which means the vehicle owner has to either settle by paying cash or continues payments until the delta is satisfied. GAP isn’t just for anyone who’s paid over MSRP, it’s to “gap” any delta between what is owed and what an ACV evaluation would be if involved in a total loss claim. The Ins. Co. is not going to cut a check for more than ACV and the Bank isn’t going to just write off the unpaid bal either...

Get GAP from your Ins. Co., never finance it into any vehicle loan. If you get GAP through your Ins. Co. You can always cancel it once the deprecation reaches its plateau (such as you have paid off or paid down the loan enough where you wouldn’t be upside down if a total loss claim event occurs). Once you have “financed it”, even though you *may* get a prorated refund, the loan value or monthly payments as signed aren’t going to change at all. Same is true with a “financed” ESP, yes you’ll get a refund, but it does not change the terms of the original loan.

 

[GT4EVR]

Kenneth (and Jason): Thanks to what others have posted in related threads ref: extended warranties, I learned about Anderson and Koch at https://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com (and subsequently others) as on-line sources for Ford Extended Service Plans (ESP) at significant savings over what my local Ford dealer from whom I bought my Shelby was offering.

-Since I tend to keep my new (or CPO) vehicles for a long time, I protect them with extended warranties (always from the original car manufacturer, not aftermarket sellers). Additionally, having read about some Voodoo engine failures from others in these forums, I opted to buy the Ford Protect Premium Care ESP, said to cover 1,000+ components, for the 8 year(96month)/36,000 mile coverage, with $0 deductible. (Keep in mind that this 8 year/36,000 mile coverage overlaps the 3 year/36,000 original bumper-to-bumper coverage, so in my case I'm getting an additional 5 years of protection, but no additional mileage coverage.)

-Anderson and Koch charged $1,495 for this coverage, compared to $2,525 my local Ford dealer wanted for the same coverage. (I also obtained the Enhanced Rental Option for $40 and Key Service Option for $80, bringing my total to $1,615).

-The on-line purchase process was extremely simple, even for a "computer illiterate" person like myself. I bought this ESP in September, with 2,505 miles at the time on my 2019 GT350 that I bought in February 2020. I received documentation of my coverage about a week after submitting the request. Everything was clear, comprehensive, and simple, and I am satisfied with the outcome.

-Hope this information is useful to you both!

 

[Nfs1000f]

I opted for the second tier ExtraCare extended warranty, 8/48. I drive 5000 miles per year. The only two components that I was overly concerned with were the engine and air-conditioning. I purchased mine right before my 3/36 warranty ran out and I had 10,200 miles on the car. I did shop and found that Flood Ford at the time had the best price.

 

[D K]

Was your 5 year warranty in ADDITION to the 3/36 or 5 years total?
If it's 5 years total, I would either
A) cancel it
B) go back and re negotiate. You can tell the dealer that you want to cancel unless they give you a better deal - whatever that may be.

GAP coverage sounds like you over paid a little bit, 595 is a decent price depending on how long.

I would recommend staying with your dealer if the online price anywhere close. I typically pay 2-300 more if I can keep everything at the dealer.
They have saved my ass so many times, I feel like they ought to make a reasonable amount of money off of me.
I have literally had over 10k worth of 'warranty' repairs done over the years that should not have been covered.

This has probably been asked many times, but I didn't do my homework on dealership coverages and got gouged/stupidly signed things I shouldn't have at the dealership. Looking to cancel as many of the things that I can...so Q's: GAP insurance (895), yes or no? I put down 20K on a HEP R so prob not worth it. They even added key replacement insurance for $600! The extended bumper to bumper 5 year contract was $3300! What was I thinking?! The only things that seem worth keeping are wheel insurance (800 - Seems no brainer for CF wheels unless I buy new ones) and appearance/paint (600) and paintless dent repair (600) for 5 years? All in all, it came to over $8K gah.

 

[460Fred]

If you’ve never had a house fire, insurance for it seems a little excessive. If you have, well, happy to pay it.
We all have life experiences to make up our own mind.
Personally I‘ve never kept cars long enough to experience something that the expense of an extended warranty would cover. I’ve been lucky that way. Work trucks I have kept without excessive expenses. Lucky that way as well.
That said, after the 3/36 factory warranty I’ll decide if I’m going to add to it. I’m of the belief that if something is going to happen, it’ll happen early on. I do plan on driving the GT350 around 10K per year.

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