Well, think about it: When you're making a hard right turn, and the car leans to the left, it changes all your tires' camber relative to the road....I do have Vorshlag C&C plates and a track alignment, but it looks like the entire car had been driving on the innermost 1/2" of tire.
So ... no one has any comment regarding the drywall screw in the inner shoulder?
But those cloverleaf entrance ramps all curve right.got to make more left hand turns...
I thought that might be an improvised plug.So ... no one has any comment regarding the drywall screw in the inner shoulder?
Same here. I switch between -3.5 track and -1.5 street. But keep in mind that the toe also changes by -0.6deg! I wrote up the method I use for conveniently going back and forth - part of my DIY alignment series of posts.That's definitely a toe out + negative camber issue. I always move my alignment (camber) back to a street friendly setting after a track day. In fact I do it at the track before leaving. Zero toe isn't the optimal toe setting on track, but it is for tire wear, and with Cup2's at $2900/set its zero toe and -1.2 camber for the win on the street.
Not at all IMO. OP are you running a constant alignment or are you switching back and forth? I take it you don't track your car but are running a track alignment.My alignment says total toe is -0.10°. Is that aggressive toe out?
Camber is -3°
Lol, as other's have pointed out, that's the plug. One of the C8 Vette guys at the C&C had it.So ... no one has any comment regarding the drywall screw in the inner shoulder?
I did find them, need to study up.I figure that driving my track tires and track alignment to/from the event is more wear on the inner half of the tire which is fine with me. As long as toe is near zero I think the highway miles are nothing compared to track time wear.
Did you find my alignment series in the DIY section?