Exhaust mode selection not available.

[greasy]

I have a stock exhaust. What might have happened is, I had some Steeda parts mounted by someone else, including the diff. bushings. It is possible that the guy when reassembling the pipes did not push them together enough and left a smaller clearance at the end.

I hope it might be easy to check, though I am not sure how hard it could be to slide the pipes in (I assume he might have had a reason).

I have read the TSB posted above, and checked the pipe seating. The exhaust clamps are not locked, but the converters seems to be as tight as it gets, while clamps look rather short. For what concerns the muffler connection, I am not sure I have any "ridge" on the pipe, looked smooth more like GT500 pic (in the TSB). Whether they are inserted for proper length I have no idea.

I guess I will have to look into it again. Unfortunately I can only do it a public shop, so probably next weekend.

Cool, just loosen all of the exhaust clamps and shift everything as far forward as possible and you should be good to go!

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[murick]

I depinned the harness, cleaned up the mangled wires, double heat shrinked the wires individually, the reassembled. Mine were much worse than yours.

BTW I tried depinning the connector too, for the same reason, but did not figure it out. Using a pin in the slot above the connector pin did not release it and having limited time I did not want to risk doing something wrong.
I have already depinned few other connectors, so I have a general idea what needs to be done, but if you have any insight which might help, I will appreciate it.

 

[murick]

Just a follow up on my story. I had a car on the lift again today. It turned out that the muffler was not fully inserted into the front clamps.
I marked all four bolts - two in the rear facing rear and two behind the diff facing front - with a marker to be able to track any progress.

I also marked all pipes connected to the clamps connecting the muffler to the engine pipes.

The idea was to push the whole exhaust (despite my service manual suggesting there should be several clamps along the way, the only clamps were those connecting the muffler) as much forward as possible. Ideal would be to push the front oriented bolts all the way in.

I wonder if there is a better method to do it, but I could not move the pipes inside the clamps much (or at all) even after making the clamp bolts loose. I did not figure out how to remove the bolts from the clamps either (not that I was very keen on it, being afraid that the assembly will fall out and I would not be able to put it together).

So the only way which worked in the end was loosening the clamps as much as possible using both a wrench and a hammer, then hammering the muffler into the clamps from behind using a rubber hammer and a rubber brick in between the pipes as a shock absorber.

Interestingly, it turned out that my passenger side tail tip is approx. 3/8" more protruding than the driver side, while I was able to push the exhaust to the front to make the driver side front facing bolt sit in the hanger bracket, the passenger side has still a 3/8" clearance.

Here is a picture of the rear facing bolt before the fix:

And after the fix:

The front facing bolt - the one on the passenger side which shows different level of wear - where it was originally sitting in the hanger.

The same spot after the fix.

I believe I know from where the shift of the exhaust backwards came. I had the exhaust reassembled in a shop and they probably did not realize they had not pushed it fully back (forward).

Now what I find interesting is that in some suggested fixes found on the internet the presented solution is to replace the harness, while the possibility of having the exhaust not set completely forward is not mentioned. This detail is tricky because at the garage the exhaust is cool and the fact that there is not enough clearance at the end might not be obvious.

Only after the whole system is really heated it may actually cause problems.
I would guess that people who are tracking their cars will be affected much more by this issue. The fact that some (e.g. Tony in his video) face the same problem without even touching their exhaust may suggest that even the factory setup if not followed through will cause this.

 

[NGOT8R]

See here.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/active-exhaust-failure.134702/

 

[NGOT8R]

Sometimes cutting off a section or sliver of the exhaust piping and/or tips can give you the extra adjustability that you need. I and others here have done this and it works very well. I bought one of these to make clean cuts on my pipes, but a cutoff wheel or sawzall would also work. It’s

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/806...MIubTL24yQjwMV7S7UAR2S9DDuEAQYAiABEgJP9vD_BwE

 

[NGOT8R]

I would say that if GT owners measured their exhaust tips for stick-out at the rear bumper, they would find that one sticks out further. I am very particular about this and have worked on mine a couple of times to make sure they fit exactly like I wanted them to.

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