ESS kit install issues.

[TheButterBomber]

You got to get a look make sure the timing is all good

Taking apart now

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[Swtbabybilly]

If you get it all torn apart your best bet might be start over from scratch with the timing, make sure the new oil pump is seated correctly, get the crank sprocket on and start at step 1

 

[TheButterBomber]

Update:

All the spark plugs are out here’s a look:
Driver side:

Passenger side:

Took the passenger side valve cover off and checked the bank 1 timing chains. I kid you not it took about 30 minutes and countless turns. The link was either always in the middle of the L and R marks. Nothing was seeming to change then all of a sudden it came within 3 links, then 2, then 1.

I’ll call it a night for now. Any thoughts on the spark plugs/passenger cam photo findings? Thoughts on if I should proceed to take it off completely still?

 

[Timbuck]

All plugs being fouled on one side of the engine shows the valve timing is wrong. Fuel is getting injected and then it’s shooting out the exhaust before firing occurs.

My gen 2 is different but similar in its mechanical workings

So I think on your gen 3 ( someone fact check that please)
Your mechanical marks on the phasers should line up to there correct position mark every few rotations at TDC of cylinder 1 ,
Bank 1 when your crank is @12 o’clock , phaser should be 11.
And bank 2 , crank @ 5 o’clock phaser should be 4.

The chain marks don’t line up all the time. It’s normal to take many rotations to line up.


Unfortunately. If it was mine , I would take it apart and start from scratch.

 

[TheButterBomber]

All plugs being fouled on one side of the engine shows the valve timing is wrong. Fuel is getting injected and then it’s shooting out the exhaust before firing occurs.

My gen 2 is different but similar in its mechanical workings

So I think on your gen 3 ( someone fact check that please)
Your mechanical marks on the phasers should line up to there correct position mark every few rotations at TDC of cylinder 1 ,
Bank 1 when your crank is @12 o’clock , phaser should be 11.
And bank 2 , crank @ 5 o’clock phaser should be 4.

The chain marks don’t line up all the time. It’s normal to take many rotations to line up.


Unfortunately. If it was mine , I would take it apart and start from scratch.

As soon as those plugs came out I knew it was gonna have to come apart again. Will need to take everything off tomorrow. More progress to follow.

 

[GR1MxREAPER]

This was a crazy read..lol… Couple things:

-if your buddy who did the OPG’s is a ford technician and does it all the time then tell him to redo his job as he clearly fucked up and you know for sure now as all those plugs are fouled bad on just one side and it all makes sense as most others have said it was a timing issue.

-honestly this sucks since your a lot of money in but GET RID OF LUND.. 75% of us have had lund tuned cars before the supercharger or started with them and got fucked at some point and had to spend $1000+ to switch tuners. Live and learn. Wengerd is by far t best with these ESS cars and his customer service is the best.

-where your catch can connects to the valve cover on the passenger side, the stock fitting needs to be removed and gutted or u need to use the UPR one that comes with adjustable jets and run no jets. It needs to be a straight through when you have a vented catch can. Factory has a check ball in it and it will fuck with your cars idling a little and won’t let enough pressure escape when you get on the throttle hard. So make sure to do this before you start to data log and run your car hard if you havnt already done this.

Good luck with the car as hopefully once the timing is fixed everything else should slowly work itself out.

 

[Swtbabybilly]

Those drivers side plugs look horrible for the car not even being able to drive down the street on its own power.

Unfortunately its looking like you need to continue taking the car back apart while doing that id keep my eye out for anything that looks lose, out of place, or maybe even broken

Just like @timbusaid the timing marks will take multiple rotations for the marks to line up correctly, before you take the chains back off thr are recommended postions to have everything in before remove pay close attention to that because if you start the job misaligned you whole job will be misaligned, sorry brotha best of luck

 

[SheepDog]

@TheButterBomber I already posted the procedure previously, but here it is again for reference. You would have to rotate the engine a ridiculous amount of times to get the colored links to align with the marks on the phasers and crank sprocket. This is not something that you can "guess at" or just by marking everything with a paint pen and putting it back together. Read the procedure a few times. Follow each step to the T.

You sure those fouled plugs didn't come from the passenger side where your O2 sensor was reading 1.6 lambda? Either way, definitely a tooth or two off.

One other thing-
In the past, there were instances of Boundary crank sprockets having the timing marked incorrectly. Pretty sure they resolved that issue, but you can be certain by stacking the OEM sprocket on top of the Boundary sprocket and making sure the timing marks and keyway line up before you re-install it

 

[SheepDog]

Any chance it's a tune for e85?

Pretty sure it's doing this on the Stock file as well

 

[TheButterBomber]

@TheButterBomber I already posted the procedure previously, but here it is again for reference. You would have to rotate the engine a ridiculous amount of times to get the colored links to align with the marks on the phasers and crank sprocket. This is not something that you can "guess at" or just by marking everything with a paint pen and putting it back together. Read the procedure a few times. Follow each step to the T.

You sure those fouled plugs didn't come from the passenger side where your O2 sensor was reading 1.6 lambda? Either way, definitely a tooth or two off.

One other thing-
In the past, there were instances of Boundary crank sprockets having the timing marked incorrectly. Pretty sure they resolved that issue, but you can be certain by stacking the OEM sprocket on top of the Boundary sprocket and making sure the timing marks and keyway line up before you re-install it

Thank you for that I must’ve not seen it.

Yeah the spark plugs were correct sides. But def was thinking why it wasn’t on the passenger side.

I’ll be sure to check that, thank you!

 

[TheButterBomber]

C

This was a crazy read..lol… Couple things:

-if your buddy who did the OPG’s is a ford technician and does it all the time then tell him to redo his job as he clearly fucked up and you know for sure now as all those plugs are fouled bad on just one side and it all makes sense as most others have said it was a timing issue.

-honestly this sucks since your a lot of money in but GET RID OF LUND.. 75% of us have had lund tuned cars before the supercharger or started with them and got fucked at some point and had to spend $1000+ to switch tuners. Live and learn. Wengerd is by far t best with these ESS cars and his customer service is the best.

-where your catch can connects to the valve cover on the passenger side, the stock fitting needs to be removed and gutted or u need to use the UPR one that comes with adjustable jets and run no jets. It needs to be a straight through when you have a vented catch can. Factory has a check ball in it and it will fuck with your cars idling a little and won’t let enough pressure escape when you get on the throttle hard. So make sure to do this before you start to data log and run your car hard if you havnt already done this.

Good luck with the car as hopefully once the timing is fixed everything else should slowly work itself out.

Could you show me what you’re referring to with the check ball? With the passenger line to the catch can, it seemed straight forward.

 

[TheButterBomber]

Will be done work soon. I have off Wednesday-Sunday. So I plan to at least have it running by the weekend. I hope... Will begin further teardown shortly. Thank you all!

 

[SheepDog]

C

Could you show me what you’re referring to with the check ball? With the passenger line to the catch can, it seemed straight forward.

He is referring to the PCV valve in the passenger side valve cover. If you are running both valve cover ports to a vented catch can, then the PCV valve is no longer needed and is actually a restriction. It can be replaced with a billet 5/8" high flow port. Or, if you don't want to spend anymore money on it, remove the PCV valve from the valve cover, and gut it - Remove the ball inside

 

[TheButterBomber]

He is referring to the PCV valve in the passenger side valve cover. If you are running both valve cover ports to a vented catch can, then the PCV valve is no longer needed and is actually a restriction. It can be replaced with a billet 5/8" high flow port. Or, if you don't want to spend anymore money on it, remove the PCV valve from the valve cover, and gut it - Remove the ball inside

In here?

 

[SheepDog]

In here?

You take it off from the outside. It just twists and locks into place.

OEM-

Replacement billet one-
https://www.uprproducts.com/product...023-mustang-f150-explorer-hellcat-upr-5045-24

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