Engine Tick Preventive Measures

[Bikeman315]

The 350R takes 5-50 according to the manual. You can use Motorcrack or AMSOIL.

EDIT: Or Lucas Oil

Yeah, but OP is asking about a Coyote which uses 5w-20. He already has a Voodoo.

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[Drunk3nLlama]

Yeah, but OP is asking about a Coyote which uses 5w-20. He already has a Voodoo.

Yeah I saw lmao reading is hard, okay man!

 

[Bikeman315]

Uh oh... will report back when it blows up

It's your car, do what you want. But you shouldn't be recommending it to others.

 

[Drunk3nLlama]

I am not an expert and did not recommend anything to anyone. You could go back and forth until the cows come home about which oil is best to use in which situation. I made a decision that feels applicable to the way I drive my car and the environment that it is in.

 

[Bikeman315]

I am not an expert and did not recommend anything to anyone. You could go back and forth until the cows come home about which oil is best to use in which situation. I made a decision that feels applicable to the way I drive my car and the environment that it is in.

No problem. I get it. There have been many threads over the years on gen2 and gen3 engines and the oil to use. Everyone has a brand of their choice but I just did not remember anyone using 5w-50 except for maybe road racers. It’s just too heavy for day to day.

 

[ice445]

As some others have said, you can't really control if you get it or not. My '20 has 860 miles on it now. At 1000 I'm changing to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20 to remove all the crud from the break-in process. But beyond that I'm not gonna do anything else, so we'll see.

 

[Roger Blose]

Stick with the Ford recommended 5w-20 due to the need to work with the variable cam timing setup. These oil powered adjusters have very fine oil screens that need to be clean and flow in order to get them to work correctly. Plus the oil is also functioning as a coolant transferring heat out to the large factory oil cooler ahead of the radiator, ( mentioned on the factory window sticker as a feature). That is where the ten quart capacity comes from I believe. Thicker oil, slower flow, more heat build up...who knows?

 

[Kermitz]

I run 5W30 full synthetic, FL500S filter and a bottle of Ceratec and it's very quiet.

 

[EPTS550]

Engine braking is something I wish I did more often during break in.

I had the tick and 2500 rpm rattle since 1000 miles. 6000 miles now and finally decided to add ceratec and was amazed when the nosies went away.

She did need a quart of oil after 4K miles.

 

[Vlad Soare]

I had no idea what you guys were talking about, so I did a quick search on YouTube and watched a couple of videos. All I can say is oh my God, that sounds horrible! It may not have any long-term ill effects, but still, just having to hear it all the time (and to explain to everyone that no, your engine is not broken, it's a design thing) must be awfully annoying. Or maybe it isn't? Maybe it's louder in the videos due to the sensitivity of the microphone, but in real life it doesn't sound that bad?

 

[Biggus Dickus]

Here's one more confusing rec - I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5-30 and added Ceratec. It's still kind of noisy - but these are noisy motors. I run my car hard. And I also have the 2-3K rpm light throttle rattle which is kind of like the Loch Ness Monster or Sasquatch of motor noises - lot's of theories but no real proof as to what it really is.

 

[Helios]

Lol at everyone using 5w50, and you wonder why your engine is ticking. My bad
Engine of todays standard are becoming tighter clearance more and more. Using 5w50 weight into a motor thats not made for it, can only create you problem

The synthetic are exceeding oem specs, you don't need anything too viscous. You need great cleansing agents and good startup flow
I run pennzoil syntec into all my cars, never had tick or any engine drinking oil or broken. Am i touching wood ? I don't know but i do beat my car everytime i take em out and no issues. You can try to hear the tick from my axle your head on the fender whatsoever you will never hear anything.

And i blame every clown using anything under 93 octane into a gen3, its a 12+ compression engine. Stop cheaping out and then cry like babies because your motor most likely knocked
It was built to run on 93, the 460 hp is on 93. Simple as that. And anything under 91 = possible damage, Knock sensor yes theyre active. Saving your engine WOT at 40 degrees outside ? If your on 87 im not too sure about that. Think about it

 

[Helios]

Also, don't flush your oil 5 times before 1000 km on the odo, Its waste of money and bad for earth.
Last coyote i had (gen2) sold at 54 000 km, i flushed every 10,000 km (pennzoil ultra). Even the first flush
Never ticked, ran strong mph (119 at the drag strip) not drinking oil. Never entered dealership for broken engine or repairs

 

[ice445]

Lol at everyone using 5w50, and you wonder why your engine is ticking. My bad
Engine of todays standard are becoming tighter clearance more and more. Using 5w50 weight into a motor thats not made for it, can only create you problem

The synthetic are exceeding oem specs, you don't need anything too viscous. You need great cleansing agents and good startup flow
I run pennzoil syntec into all my cars, never had tick or any engine drinking oil or broken. Am i touching wood ? I don't know but i do beat my car everytime i take em out and no issues. You can try to hear the tick from my axle your head on the fender whatsoever you will never hear anything.

And i blame every clown using anything under 93 octane into a gen3, its a 12+ compression engine. Stop cheaping out and then cry like babies because your motor most likely knocked
It was built to run on 93, the 460 hp is on 93. Simple as that. And anything under 91 = possible damage, Knock sensor yes theyre active. Saving your engine WOT at 40 degrees outside ? If your on 87 im not too sure about that. Think about it

The full power is using 91 octane, in the western half of the US that's all we have. Would be silly to gimp a car for half the country by specing for 93.

 

[Helios]

And don't be afraid to seat those piston properly, under your first 500 km ideally. You can accelerate progressively and let it decelerate.
Just don't pin it to top speed and keep it there, thats the bad thing to do. And no burnout either

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