Engine rebuild suggestions

[gearhead2685]

JPC/RGR

That is all

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[Ponderthis]

Just pull the motor and if the sleeve is good drop in forged aftermarket pistons/rods thats it... Should be good for 900-1000whp like that.

 

[ahl395]

SO! Guys, I just got the biggest break ever. So lucky, I actually still can't believe it.

Pulled the plugs today and did a compression test, even though i was sure the motor was done, I figured I wanted to have some actual data to tell the shop of what I found.

Well... this is what I found.

[ame]https://vimeo.com/241275084[/ame]

Compression was 193-204 in all cylinders. Small variation which I'm sure falls within the normal scale. Not sure what the compression should be, but clearly not a blown ring.

Replaced all the plugs, started it up. Ran smooth again, drives normal. I guess the fireworks I saw out the back were the spark plug burning up, can't believe it sparked that much though. I feel like there might be the tiniest little stumble at idle maybe from the cylinder walls being damaged from the piece of spark plug? Although it never ran 100% silent/smooth so it could be in my head.

All in all, I still can't believe how lucky I got. I guess I jumped to conclusions here... But I was sure my motor was done. I sent the logs to Lund and asked them what they think and if theres anything that can be done so it doesnt happen again in the future. Maybe the "torque management" feature being disabled, or maybe something can be done with the trans tune or rev limiters.

Also checked my boost gauge and datalog. Hit 19psi at 8300rpm. Approx +35F rise from ambient to IAT at 19psi. Downright scary, I'm lucky my motor is still alive just from these numbers.

Not that it has anything to do with your failure just curious what boost you were running and brand of oil and weight?

Jon told me that the car will unlock the converter if the car spins in the street. If i were building and engine i would go with a sleeved block and only use a builder that is known in the coyote world. It is too much money to trust it with just anyone. You should be able to use your stock block. You can also buy a a stock shortblock for 2500 new from ford.

Yeah I'm pretty sure that's what happened to me. The strange thing is my wheels spin all the time and this has never happened before. It is a little cooler outside now though, and I was being a little more aggressive since I was trying to do a datalog.

JPC/RGR

That is all

Just pull the motor and if the sleeve is good drop in forged aftermarket pistons/rods thats it... Should be good for 900-1000whp like that.

I will keep these in mind for when the time comes. I dodged the bullet this time but I know its coming for me later...

 

[DocWalt]

Broken insulator is generally detonation or some sort of impact damage/installation damage. I think you have a pretty good idea why that could happen, lol. It's tough to tell from the video but it looks like it's intact, other than separating from the rest of the ceramic. Any chunks missing?

I'd still budget for a rebuild

 

[ahl395]

Broken insulator is generally detonation or some sort of impact damage/installation damage. I think you have a pretty good idea why that could happen, lol. It's tough to tell from the video but it looks like it's intact, other than separating from the rest of the ceramic. Any chunks missing?

I'd still budget for a rebuild

From looking at it it seems intact except for not being attached.

I know a rebuild is coming my way even if I dodged the bullet this time, for now its running good though. Hopefully buys me some time

 

[mustang1]

... Also checked my boost gauge and datalog. Hit 19psi at 8300rpm. Approx +35F rise from ambient to IAT at 19psi.

my guess is IAT2 climbed a lot more than +35F , causing detonation, damaging the spark plug

 

[Ponderthis]

Do you usually run that high boost and rpm? If so you asking for it on the stock motor lol... glad you found the issue though

 

[markmurfie]

Just read your build. I've seen other brisk plugs do this, what did you replace with?

 

[ahl395]

my guess is IAT2 climbed a lot more than +35F , causing detonation, damaging the spark plug

I was thinking that too. In the log knock went to 4. Then dropped to 0 for several lines, rpm came down slightly then 9.9 deg.

Do you usually run that high boost and rpm? If so you asking for it on the stock motor lol... glad you found the issue though

No way, lol. Rpm was only that high because of the converter unlocking and unfortunately boost followed with that high of an rpm it out flowed the wastegate.

Usually I run 12 psi and shift at 7000-7300.

Just read your build. I've seen other brisk plugs do this, what did you replace with?

I replaced with more Brisk plugs since I had a spare set at home.

I did read that the Brisk plugs will burn up if the tip breaks off so it doesn't damage the motor, whereas other plugs won't burn up and will cause damage. Not sure if that's true or not, and I don't think what broke off is considered the tip anyway, not sure though.

[MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] I believe I saw you talking about the Brisk plugs doing this. Sorry if not, but if so can you comment?

 

[ahl395]

Not that it has anything to do with your failure just curious what boost you were running and brand of oil and weight?

Sorry I missed your post. Probably doesn't matter now since it didn't actually fail but I run Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-20. Wastegated at 11-12psi, 93 octane.

 

[beefcake]

I was thinking that too. In the log knock went to 4. Then dropped to 0 for several lines, rpm came down slightly then 9.9 deg.



No way, lol. Rpm was only that high because of the converter unlocking and unfortunately boost followed with that high of an rpm it out flowed the wastegate.

Usually I run 12 psi and shift at 7000-7300.



I replaced with more Brisk plugs since I had a spare set at home.

I did read that the Brisk plugs will burn up if the tip breaks off so it doesn't damage the motor, whereas other plugs won't burn up and will cause damage. Not sure if that's true or not, and I don't think what broke off is considered the tip anyway, not sure though.

[MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] I believe I saw you talking about the Brisk plugs doing this. Sorry if not, but if so can you comment?

typically that is the case

 

[beefcake]

I was thinking that too. In the log knock went to 4. Then dropped to 0 for several lines, rpm came down slightly then 9.9 deg.



No way, lol. Rpm was only that high because of the converter unlocking and unfortunately boost followed with that high of an rpm it out flowed the wastegate.

Usually I run 12 psi and shift at 7000-7300.



I replaced with more Brisk plugs since I had a spare set at home.

I did read that the Brisk plugs will burn up if the tip breaks off so it doesn't damage the motor, whereas other plugs won't burn up and will cause damage. Not sure if that's true or not, and I don't think what broke off is considered the tip anyway, not sure though.

[MENTION=10926]beefcake[/MENTION] I believe I saw you talking about the Brisk plugs doing this. Sorry if not, but if so can you comment?

typically that is the case with them, thats why we like them

 

[Cobo_pro]

Dude... Glad you caught a break! I love my NGK IX !!!

 

[ahl395]

typically that is the case

typically that is the case with them, thats why we like them

Great, thanks for the reply! Looks like I'll stick with them. I suppose it's possible another plug may not have burned up and caused more damage.

Dude... Glad you caught a break! I love my NGK IX !!!

Thanks man

 

[v8hgt]

LUcky guy. I melted a Denso plug in my Ducati and the core dropped straight through the piston. Made a hell of a mess.

Plugs do this if you overheat them. In. My case I had a weeping oil seal that had allowed some oil to collect down the plug hole. The hot oil then cooked the plug until the ceramic seperated from the metal.

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