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Engine Exploded need short block~~~right now!

Slow89

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Techron




Vs seafoam






Looks like seafoam is still the best on the market.... I've always had great results with it. Hopefully a higher mileage guy can throw some in and see how it works. P.S. I need one of those cameras lol
 

ElAviator72

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Seafoam works well too. We use it in our airplanes and the tops of the pistons are always nice and clean. Just pour a bottle in a full tank of gas a couple times a year.

Are they making a fuel system only treatment now?

Just want to clarify, as the traditional Seafoam engine treatment (the stuff you spray down your intake) is not kosher in Ecoboost engines.

Mechanics have sprayed it down the intake, and it leads to turbo failure down the road...a combination of three problems: 1) it raises the exhaust temperature during the treatment process to a temp well beyond what's safe for the turbo 2) dislodges large chunks of carbon, which in turn pit the turbo (which is already softer than normal due to problem #1), and 3) the solvents in it like to eat the oil in the turbo bearings...
 

Slow89

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Are they making a fuel system only treatment now?

Just want to clarify, as the traditional Seafoam engine treatment (the stuff you spray down your intake) is not kosher in Ecoboost engines.

Mechanics have sprayed it down the intake, and it leads to turbo failure down the road...a combination of three problems: 1) it raises the exhaust temperature during the treatment process to a temp well beyond what's safe for the turbo 2) dislodges large chunks of carbon, which in turn pit the turbo (which is already softer than normal due to problem #1), and 3) the solvents in it like to eat the oil in the turbo bearings...
Good to know I used it on two N/A builds and a supercharged stang. I've used it 3 times with no issue. But what you're saying makes sense
 

gte

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??

Horsepower doesn't have anything to do with block failure. It's either cylinder pressure (almost a direct function of torque) and potentially rpm if you are talking about bearing or oil pump failure.

If you made 350wtq and 500whp, you'd be fine.

Rods don't fail from horsepower, they fail from cylinder pressure which includes detonation.


The stock rods and crank are not the weakest link. It's the pistons, they are cast, not forged. Both the Rods and Crank are forged. While there are certainly more robust and higher quality forged rods for built engines, the factory parts are quite robust and as you state will get you into the low 12's / high 11's without sacrificing reliability. I don't consider a car that lasts 10k miles and then throws a rod to be a reliable performance car, I would expect at least 150k miles for a performance DD assuming proper maintenance. If your not racing it 24/7, I don't see why you couldn't get up to 200k on some. I've seen a few Fox Body V8's with 250k and they were modded but with stock internals. Yes the EB's are running under high boost compared to a NA V8, however the rings, rods and crank are specked to match that and most modern engines have a minimum expected service life of 150k under the most severe operating conditions, many times actual service life well exceeds that.

It would seem a much better idea to buy a built short block for dedicated racing and pushing more than 425 ft-lbs wtq.MAP, LMS and others provide built short blocks capable of supporting up to 600 to 700 whp! BTW, according to LMS and their in-housing test cars, the 2.3L's tend to give out around 425 ft-lbs wtq and roughly 350 whp on average. A 10~15% margin under that should still provide a good service life. So pushing past 380 wtq and 315 whp and you start to increase risk quite a bit of those kinds of failures early on.

Rods will fail form too high power levels (I have yet to see the crank give, so it's probably the most stout component on the bottom end) where as the pistons, wrist pin, bearings or head gasket will typically give out from too aggressive timing (knock or super knock aka LSPI) which seems to be by far the most common failure. Note that many people have bent or broken rods along with the piston failures, however that is a result of the piston failing first.
 

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gte

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Do you have a picture of your plug?

Problems all started one month ago with the install of the Wastegate actuator. I was getting tune revised for it...first noticed whistling noise under WOT, then one instance of turbo flutter, then cracked plug. Plug just split in half, insulator and electrode hit ground strap, never fell into cylinder. Replaced plugs, revised tune, still getting whistling at WOT, then easing onto highway at 55 mph 3000 rpm...BOOM!
 

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Sub
 
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doulos4jc

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Cylinder #3 totally disintegrated, blew holes on both side of block. Found bits of aluminum and aluminum dust(remnants of piston) from turbo through intercooler and into intake...total devastation. :(
IMG_0368.webp
370.webp
 
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doulos4jc

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looking down through spark plug hole you can see daylight streaming in from below...not good.
367.webp
 

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Juben

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On the front of the engine, there's a sticker on the valve cover. It should have a couple of barcodes and a few random combinations of letters. Can you take a pic of it and post it?
 

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Take a pic of the backside of the intake valves. Curious f they have any crude on them.
 
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doulos4jc

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I'll get those pics on Monday. Mine was one of the first retail sales out in Nov 2014 so it's got a Spain motor, I'll get a pic up Monday.
 
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doulos4jc

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Rocket Surgeons...

How do you get aluminum dust(almost a powder) in the intake of an engine??
On the front of the engine, there's a sticker on the valve cover. It should have a couple of barcodes and a few random combinations of letters. Can you take a pic of it and post it?
Old motor shipped out, sorry no more pics. Car had a 10/26/14 build week, so Spain motor FWIW.

Take a pic of the backside of the intake valves. Curious f they have any crude on them.
Mechanic says intake valves were in good shape...very little if any carbon build up.
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