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TheLion

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The car is at a local Ford dealership with a possibility that it will be covered under warranty. If not, I'll get an estimate from them. Waiting on an estimate from another independent shop. As of now I have one estimate of 5274.71 tax, labor, engine, out the door on the road.
That's actually not that bad. It's not cheap, but it's not nearly as costly as the F-150 guys paying $7K~$8K...
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ElAviator72

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Thanks everyone. I ended going with an OEM engine just to get myself back on the road so I can get back and forth to work so I can pay for all of this.
Did they do a teardown to determine what failed?

Enquiring minds want to know! :headbang:
 
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doulos4jc

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Did they do a teardown to determine what failed?

Enquiring minds want to know! :headbang:
There is a core charge on engine, so it's going back to seller. Don't know if I'll ever find out why it failed, but I'm going to try. BTW Ford warranty voided(shocker). Side benefit; new motor comes with a 3 year unlimited warranty, even if it's modified.
 

Slow89

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There is a core charge on engine, so it's going back to seller. Don't know if I'll ever find out why it failed, but I'm going to try. BTW Ford warranty voided(shocker). Side benefit; new motor comes with a 3 year unlimited warranty, even if it's modified.
What did they void it for? Did u tell them it was tuned lol.... And weird they're giving you a 3 year warranty modified or not. Might want to check the fine print
 
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doulos4jc

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Independent shop doing work, not Ford. Initially I had car at local Ford dealership just in case it would be covered under warranty. Today they told me it would not be covered, I didn't ask why.
 
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TEXAS HEAT

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Independent shop doing work, not Ford. Initially I had car at local Ford dealership just in case it would be covered under warranty. Today they told me it would not be covered, I didn't ask why.

After reading through your most recent threads regarding wastegate actuator install, then misfire conditions, then engine failure has me curious.

Did you inform your tuner that you'd installed the WGA and was he compensating for that fact in your tune?

You experienced a cracked plug shortly thereafter which resulted in the electrode being dropped most likely into your cylinder. This type of plug failure can be the result of extreme detonation and/or pre-ignition. It kinda stinks that you won't have the opportunity to investigate the root cause of the failure so that you could share with other forum members.

I'm just trying to understand the timeline and sequence of events that lead up to your failure so that we might benefit from your unfortunate circumstance.

Have you spoken with your tuner? Did you get a bad batch of fuel? Any additional insight you are willing to provide or share could be beneficial in preventing another untimely failure and I'm sure it would be appreciated amongst those in the community.

:cheers:.
 
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New engine going in Monday, my mechanic and I will take a close look at the old one when when it comes out. He is of the opinion that nothing I did in modifying the car would cause the engine to blow the way it did. I will post specifics soon.
 

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Could this be related to the early builds, weak wrist pins? Something I am still unclear about are the E model engines posted in front of the valve cover starting with the letter followed by numbers?
 

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After reading through your most recent threads regarding wastegate actuator install, then misfire conditions, then engine failure has me curious.

Did you inform your tuner that you'd installed the WGA and was he compensating for that fact in your tune?

You experienced a cracked plug shortly thereafter which resulted in the electrode being dropped most likely into your cylinder. This type of plug failure can be the result of extreme detonation and/or pre-ignition. It kinda stinks that you won't have the opportunity to investigate the root cause of the failure so that you could share with other forum members.

I'm just trying to understand the timeline and sequence of events that lead up to your failure so that we might benefit from your unfortunate circumstance.

Have you spoken with your tuner? Did you get a bad batch of fuel? Any additional insight you are willing to provide or share could be beneficial in preventing another untimely failure and I'm sure it would be appreciated amongst those in the community.

:cheers:.
While the BOV / Diverter Valve may have been part of the problem, it seems unlikely to be the sole cause. I cannot find anything anywhere on Focus ST's, SHO's, Mustang EB's or Fiesta ST's that would support this.

Cracked heads, blown rings, bearings or even head gaskets are typically signs of knock or super knock induced failure. Take a look at the Focus ST's that have failed with cracked heads / blown rings that had Cobb Stage 3. Bend rods are power limit related, you've exceeded the power limits of the engine.

How many miles did you drive the car total before it failed after modifications? Or if were the mods incremental, then what was the last mod and how long did you drive it?

I'm seeing a trend that when the EB's go, you won't really hear the knock like you expect. Many of the ST's with cracked heads never heard it, were driving normally around 2k rpm and then the engine in short order started acting up and then quit all together.

Now that doesn't mean they failed at that point, knock could have been occuring at a higher rpm, done it's damage and then as things settled down and temps of the heads changed the heads began to separate, lower rpm also gives them longer dwell time which provides a longer time for damage to start manifesting. This all speculation of course (regarding the OP's cause of failure)...
 

TheLion

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BTW, a common cause of stock engines blowing is a stuck injector (well, on the fractions of a percent that do fail). This has been tracked down on numerous F150's, ST's etc. Something to consider
 

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doulos4jc

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Problems all started one month ago with the install of the Wastegate actuator. I was getting tune revised for it...first noticed whistling noise under WOT, then one instance of turbo flutter, then cracked plug. Plug just split in half, insulator and electrode hit ground strap, never fell into cylinder. Replaced plugs, revised tune, still getting whistling at WOT, then easing onto highway at 55 mph 3000 rpm...BOOM!
 

TEXAS HEAT

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While the BOV / Diverter Valve may have been part of the problem, it seems unlikely to be the sole cause. I cannot find anything anywhere on Focus ST's, SHO's, Mustang EB's or Fiesta ST's that would support this.

Cracked heads, blown rings, bearings or even head gaskets are typically signs of knock or super knock induced failure. Take a look at the Focus ST's that have failed with cracked heads / blown rings that had Cobb Stage 3. Bend rods are power limit related, you've exceeded the power limits of the engine.

How many miles did you drive the car total before it failed after modifications? Or if were the mods incremental, then what was the last mod and how long did you drive it?

I'm seeing a trend that when the EB's go, you won't really hear the knock like you expect. Many of the ST's with cracked heads never heard it, were driving normally around 2k rpm and then the engine in short order started acting up and then quit all together.

Now that doesn't mean they failed at that point, knock could have been occuring at a higher rpm, done it's damage and then as things settled down and temps of the heads changed the heads began to separate, lower rpm also gives them longer dwell time which provides a longer time for damage to start manifesting. This all speculation of course (regarding the OP's cause of failure)...
Actually, I was referring to the Turbosmart waste gate actuator (WGA) that the OP had installed just prior to his misfire thread, he then followed that up very shortly with a blown engine thread.

A WGA that has a higher cracking pressure than stock requires a tune adjustment to compensate for this to prevent an overboost condition, especially on spool up (LSPI). I was wondering if his tuner was aware of this part install and was compensating for it in his tune or if the OP installed this unbeknownst that it would require a tune adjustment.

I've been modifying cars for quite a long time and I'll be the first to admit that I've done my share of stupid shit to my cars before and have had my share of blown engines as a result of my negligence. I guess what I'm trying to drill down to is if the OP was just slapping parts on without regard to the potential negative side effects.

If that was the case, I get it. We've all been there, Lord knows I have!

Edit: I see the OP elaborated further while I was typing this comment. It seems as though it wasn't any negligence or lack of experience on the OP's part. My apologies.
 

TheLion

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Problems all started one month ago with the install of the Wastegate actuator. I was getting tune revised for it...first noticed whistling noise under WOT, then one instance of turbo flutter, then cracked plug. Plug just split in half, insulator and electrode hit ground strap, never fell into cylinder. Replaced plugs, revised tune, still getting whistling at WOT, then easing onto highway at 55 mph 3000 rpm...BOOM!
That may sum it up. This is why I was arguing in favor of using ECU controlled BOV's instead of static or fixed switch units that are manually adjusted. The ECU opens the valves at particular points for a reason. So perhaps my previous assumption about it not being the culprit in this case wrong, shame on me for jumping to conclusions, you know what they say.
 
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doulos4jc

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24,500. Timeline...SCT tuned ~10k, down pipe/intercooler ~20k(ran like a beast), Wastegate actuator ~24k
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