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Engine dies randomly!!?

Jetnoise

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I agree 100% if the car is in gear but as my original post stated...took car out of gear (neutral) continued braking and car stalled.
I’m sure you didn’t goof up
It’s easy to do though
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Zinc03svt

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Cam phasers had to be reset/replaced at 6500 miles. No more dying issues or hunting for idle when coming to a stop. Been issue free for a whole week now. Used to be an issue daily.
Lol. Mine too at 6600 miles. No more stalling. ;).

Cam phasers are a shitty job to do for techs. 2k billed to Ford.
 

natepcbfl

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Lol. Mine too at 6600 miles. No more stalling. ;).

Cam phasers are a shitty job to do for techs. 2k billed to Ford.
I just ordered VCT solenoids in hopes that's all it is and not the phasers. Would you know how to spot a bad phaser? Not in the mood to argue for a week to the Ford dealership, so I am going to try to fix it myself. I figure the solenoids are less than 100 bucks for the Ford Performance ones so not a big financial loss if it doesn't fix it.
 

natepcbfl

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I just ordered VCT solenoids in hopes that's all it is and not the phasers. Would you know how to spot a bad phaser? Not in the mood to argue for a week to the Ford dealership, so I am going to try to fix it myself. I figure the solenoids are less than 100 bucks for the Ford Performance ones so not a big financial loss if it doesn't fix it.
Installed four VCT solenoids Saturday and the idle is rock solid. I honestly dont remember the last time the idle sat so still, it has always wiggled on the gauge a little.
IMG_0240.webp
 

Diocletian

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Installed four VCT solenoids Saturday and the idle is rock solid. I honestly dont remember the last time the idle sat so still, it has always wiggled on the gauge a little.
IMG_0240.webp
Hmm mine has always wiggled on the gauge but I figured that was just how the readout works with the refresh rate of the digital display. If I have stalling problems I'll swap back to 93 and have Ford replace the VCT solenoids first
 

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Zinc03svt

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Installed four VCT solenoids Saturday and the idle is rock solid. I honestly dont remember the last time the idle sat so still, it has always wiggled on the gauge a little.
IMG_0240.webp
What was the total $ for 4 of them? How hard to replace?
 

natepcbfl

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What was the total $ for 4 of them? How hard to replace?
The parts box picture is for the Ford Performance ones. You can get a set of the FP for like $80-95 depending on where you get them from. Install is super simple, 2 bolts each to hold them in, I used blue thread lock when i put them back in just in case. You "might" be able to reuse the valve cover gasket, I replaced mine just to be safe. The gasket kit goes for like 100 retail, but you can find them cheap. I got a set for like 25 bucks from carparts.com (appear to be exactly the same as the felpro set) I only replaced the gasket and not the grommets as they were pressed in. Now I have seen where people have reported changes to gaskets for some 16s so make sure you are getting the one you need for your specific year produced. My stock gaskets were black and looked different than the blue ones that seem to be the standard aftermarket, I thought I had the wrong ones and then realized the Alabama summer heat clouded my mind. The worst part of it was...... getting the wire loom clips off of the back side of the valve covers, having to get the valve covers unstuck from the spark plug tubes (I got 95k on the clock), the passenger side lower valve cover bolt is a biiiiitch to reach. If you have a performance pack car like I do just take off the 2 strut tower braces off right from the start. I figured for such a cheap part compared to a single visit to Ford I would take the chance at throwing a little bit of money at it to see if that was the issue.
IMG_0237_LI.webp
 

Zinc03svt

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The parts box picture is for the Ford Performance ones. You can get a set of the FP for like $80-95 depending on where you get them from. Install is super simple, 2 bolts each to hold them in, I used blue thread lock when i put them back in just in case. You "might" be able to reuse the valve cover gasket, I replaced mine just to be safe. The gasket kit goes for like 100 retail, but you can find them cheap. I got a set for like 25 bucks from carparts.com (appear to be exactly the same as the felpro set) I only replaced the gasket and not the grommets as they were pressed in. Now I have seen where people have reported changes to gaskets for some 16s so make sure you are getting the one you need for your specific year produced. My stock gaskets were black and looked different than the blue ones that seem to be the standard aftermarket, I thought I had the wrong ones and then realized the Alabama summer heat clouded my mind. The worst part of it was...... getting the wire loom clips off of the back side of the valve covers, having to get the valve covers unstuck from the spark plug tubes (I got 95k on the clock), the passenger side lower valve cover bolt is a biiiiitch to reach. If you have a performance pack car like I do just take off the 2 strut tower braces off right from the start. I figured for such a cheap part compared to a single visit to Ford I would take the chance at throwing a little bit of money at it to see if that was the issue.
IMG_0237_LI.webp
Thanks for info. I just wish the Ford would have replaced them once they were already in there for the intake cam phasers. Seriously probably 75 bucks at cost.
 

natepcbfl

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Hmm mine has always wiggled on the gauge but I figured that was just how the readout works with the refresh rate of the digital display. If I have stalling problems I'll swap back to 93 and have Ford replace the VCT solenoids first
Just an FYI, I have a 2015 and have not "yet" done the digital dash swap. I am sure the DD will see fluctuations much more than the analog needle. The thing you might notice first is just a dip in the RPM's after coming to a stop or while rolling to a stopping point but, in neutral. It did that for a while before it finally started stalling out.
 

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Just an FYI, I have a 2015 and have not "yet" done the digital dash swap. I am sure the DD will see fluctuations much more than the analog needle. The thing you might notice first is just a dip in the RPM's after coming to a stop or while rolling to a stopping point but, in neutral. It did that for a while before it finally started stalling out.
Oh yeah mine did that on E85 all the time. A tune revision later and I'm all good
 

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Hello everyone,

I'm brand new to this forum, and brand new to Ford.

I just bought my GT350 three days ago, and it stalled three times last night. It has 150 miles on it now.

The first two times in happened, I had no idea why.

But after thinking about it, I realized it might have been something I was doing, that I hadn't done with it since then and normally never do: when going 30+ miles per hour, I put it into neutral, took my foot off the clutch, and coasted.

Again, something I never do, but I was having a discussion about it with my wife and tried it out a few times.

As soon as I realized that that's what it might have been, I tried it again and... voila, it happened again. 1) Was going 30+ miles per hour, 2) put the car into neutral, 3) took my foot off the clutch to coast, and 4) the engine shut off and the "Full Accessory Power Active" warning popped up. Each time, it started up again no problem.

I didn't do it again for the rest of the drive home, and it didn't happen again. And like I mentioned, I hadn't done it before then, and it hadn't happened until then.

What do you guys think? Does the combination of neutral + clutch disengage make sense for it to stall? It sounds like it happens to others when the clutch is engaged and they're just rolling up to a stop light, so maybe my issue is different?

I appreciate any help or advice!
 

GT Pony

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What do you guys think? Does the combination of neutral + clutch disengage make sense for it to stall? It sounds like it happens to others when the clutch is engaged and they're just rolling up to a stop light, so maybe my issue is different?

I appreciate any help or advice!
The engine should not die if you're in nuetral and clutch engaged or disengaged.

It's under warranty, so have the dealer put it on their super scanner to see if anything looks abnormal.
 

Toretto

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Bumping this thread. As I've posted/commented on other similar threads, my brand new 2021 GT manual with active valve exhaust, has had the same problems 3 times within a week (twice on the same day within 2 blocks, and once a week later which was earlier today).

Brought my car to the dealer last Wednesday and obviously they found nothing as they were unable to replicate the issue. Anybody had any luck finding the culprit for this?
 

cantseemtosleep

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Yep, same problem here.. I have a 2020 GT manual with less than 13K on it. Granted, I also have a supercharger, header, full exhaust (no cats), and a tune.. But hearing it happens with stock cars AND modified cars is concerning.

Anytime I'm at a low speed, my car will potentially do this. Shifts fine and seems to have plenty of power for what I've got in it. No problems at WOT. But as soon as I go to slow down, on occasion, the engine will start surging and then quickly just shut off. I wouldn't call it stalling like poor clutch technique, but the car just.. dies. Happens when I push the clutch in and get into neutral. Happens if I leave the car in gear and stop with the brakes+ clutch, it's not easily replicable because it almost seems random..

Also happens just in slow speed operation, like in a drive thru. If I'm sitting still and I need to pull up, I'll put the car into first, let out the clutch and give it a little gas to get rolling, and as soon as I push the clutch back in it's like the RPMs just go crazy. In that scenario, they'll usually instantly fluctuate upwards violently 700-1k+ rpms whatever I'm currently at, then they drop down to 700 and start bouncing up and down between 8-400, then car shuts off. Or sometimes the car just immediately shuts off after the violent increase in RPMs.

I'm thinking it has to be the tune or something fuel related, purge valve/evap, throttle body/tps, fuel pump? My mechanic just took apart the whole engine basically to install a new oil pump gear and he inspected all gaskets and hoses and didn't find any signs of a vacuum leak. We thought maybe turbulent air from the way the CAI is set up, but I've pretty much ruled that out since it happens when the car doesn't have enough force to be sucking up excess air. Also kinda thinking tune, but when we first got the supercharger installed we had it dyno tuned and it ran just fine for the tuner and my mechanic who drove it back to the shop.

Rarely get codes, whenever I do it's for a rich or lean code and usually only one bank.
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