Engine Bay Detailing

KT3

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Hey guys ,

I want to start detailing my engine bay every once in awhile to keep
in maintained.

What should I get from say your local Canadian Tire , Home Depot, Walmart to just jeep everything fresh looking under there. Thanks!





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SAY WHAT

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Keep it simple a apc and something like meguiars hyper dressing that dries clear.
 

DFB5.0

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As mentioned, use an All Purpose Cleaner to remove grime and dust using a detailing brush and some microfibre cloths. Follow up with a dressing, in my case 303 is the weapon of choice, applied with a detail brush and a microfibre pad.

apr154.jpg


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And if you are generous, apply some spray wax or sealant to the painted areas.

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Take you time and then maintain regularly.

DSC-0379.jpg
 

Cobra Jet

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Here's how I have been keeping engines clean for eons...

1) Spray down under hood and engine bay (do not "supersoak", just spray down)
2) Get Simple Green - it will not harm metal or plastic surfaces
3) Spray the SG liberally over the entire engine and engine compartment
4) Wait about a good 10-15 mins
5) Rinse
6) Close hood and start engine
7) Let vehicle run a good 15 mins so heat from engine will dry mostly everything
8) Turn off vehicle
9) Pop hood and manually dry any areas where water may be laying
10) Use a dressing of your choice to wipe down any rubber/plastic items so they have a sheen - NOT a wet gloss.

That's it... been doing it for years, never had any issues afterwards. You can get the engine bay wet, but what some folks do wrong is they supersoak or drown it, which is when you run into starting problems.

Electronics and harnesses will be fine - they are designed to withstand water spray as many of the connectors are sealed - but not designed to be submerged (as in flood waters).

IF you have an OPEN AIR CAI (exposed filter element, such as Roush, GT350 and other aftermarket types) you MUST cover it with plastic bag, so the filter does not get soaked and so you’re not getting any residual water into the air intake tract. If you have the factory sealed airBOX assembly, no need to cover it as it’s sealed.

Another detailed trick/tip:
After dry, get WD40 and spray the metal areas - after spraying, again start car and let sit for 5-10 mins w/ hood closed. The WD40 will not ignite or cause any issues with anything, the heat will burn off any residual WD40 so don’t worry if you smell anything while car is running. After running car, just pop hood and wipe down any plastic surfaces.

WD40 will protect the metals from that oxidation and rust; the original intent and design of WD40 was to repel moisture and water - which will help to prevent that oxi build up due to constant changing weather conditions.

I’ve been doing the above for years with any vehicle I’ve had, including my 94 Cobra - and it works.

The attached image is of my 94 Cobra engine bay as it looks today. If I didn't tell you all, you wouldn't believe it has almost 145k original miles and was driven 24/7/365 in every season here in NJ up until 2007. The engine has never been out of the car and the attached aluminum parts/accessories are all original and look as new as they were right out of their parts bins back in 94...LOL.

IMG_4193.JPG


I did the above process every time I washed the car (so about 1x a week). The WD40 not only protects the metal, but also any other surfaces such as plastics and rubber surfaces/components.

You don't need a slew of the most expensive name brand detailing shit, just some good old smarts and use of existing products available anywhere. :)
 

DFB5.0

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Here's how I have been keeping engines clean for eons...

1) Spray down under hood and engine bay (do not "supersoak", just spray down)
2) Get Simple Green - it will not harm metal or plastic surfaces
3) Spray the SG liberally over the entire engine and engine compartment
4) Wait about a good 10-15 mins
5) Rinse
6) Close hood and start engine
7) Let vehicle run a good 15 mins so heat from engine will dry mostly everything
8) Turn off vehicle
9) Pop hood and manually dry any areas where water may be laying
10) Use a dressing of your choice to wipe down any rubber/plastic items so they have a sheen - NOT a wet gloss.

That's it... been doing it for years, never had any issues afterwards. You can get the engine bay wet, but what some folks do wrong is they supersoak or drown it, which is when you run into starting problems.

Electronics and harnesses will be fine - they are designed to withstand water spray as many of the connectors are sealed - but not designed to be submerged (as in flood waters).

IF you have an OPEN AIR CAI (exposed filter element, such as Roush, GT350 and other aftermarket types) you MUST cover it with plastic bag, so the filter does not get soaked and so you’re not getting any residual water into the air intake tract. If you have the factory sealed airBOX assembly, no need to cover it as it’s sealed.

Another detailed trick/tip:
After dry, get WD40 and spray the metal areas - after spraying, again start car and let sit for 5-10 mins w/ hood closed. The WD40 will not ignite or cause any issues with anything, the heat will burn off any residual WD40 so don’t worry if you smell anything while car is running. After running car, just pop hood and wipe down any plastic surfaces.

WD40 will protect the metals from that oxidation and rust; the original intent and design of WD40 was to repel moisture and water - which will help to prevent that oxi build up due to constant changing weather conditions.

I’ve been doing the above for years with any vehicle I’ve had, including my 94 Cobra - and it works.

The attached image is of my 94 Cobra engine bay as it looks today. If I didn't tell you all, you wouldn't believe it has almost 145k original miles and was driven 24/7/365 in every season here in NJ up until 2007. The engine has never been out of the car and the attached aluminum parts/accessories are all original and look as new as they were right out of their parts bins back in 94...LOL.

IMG_4193.JPG


I did the above process every time I washed the car (so about 1x a week). The WD40 not only protects the metal, but also any other surfaces such as plastics and rubber surfaces/components.

You don't need a slew of the most expensive name brand detailing shit, just some good old smarts and use of existing products available anywhere. :)
Great advice. That 94 Cobra engine looks brand new, a testament to regular and careful detailing.
 

GT 550

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@DFB5.0 can I ask please which all purpose cleaner and brushes you recommend? I've seen multitudes of detailing brushes but they always seem super expensive for what they are, I may not be seeing the whole picture.

Cheers
 

DFB5.0

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@DFB5.0 can I ask please which all purpose cleaner and brushes you recommend? I've seen multitudes of detailing brushes but they always seem super expensive for what they are, I may not be seeing the whole picture.

Cheers
In terms of All Purpose Cleaner, I am using Auto Finesses Verso. However I have used and liked Meguiars HD Multi Purpose Cleaner.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/all-purpose-cleaners/products/auto-finesse-verso-apc
https://www.meguiars.com.au/product/multi-purpose-cleaner/

With Brushes, I like these SGCB ones as they have a range of size to suit different situations. I also prefer the more durable plastic handle.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/interior-brushes/products/sgcb-detailing-brush-set

These could also be useful for getting into deeper, tighter spots.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/wheel-tyre-brushes/products/vikan-reach-n-clean-angle-brush-kit

Having said all that, a paint brush works almost as well, even Waxit sells a set for the task.
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections/interior-brushes/products/vikan-wooden-handle-brush-set-of-5

I have used paint brushes before and I would probably recommend wrapping some electrical tape around the metal brush holder to avoid damage.

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Hope that helps. :like:
 

GT 550

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Terrific, they're nowhere near as expensive as some of the Bowdens stuff I've seen. Thanks, great help :thumbsup:
 

DFB5.0

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Terrific, they're nowhere near as expensive as some of the Bowdens stuff I've seen. Thanks, great help :thumbsup:
Those SGCB ones are decent value and will come in handy for both interior and exterior tasks. I'm using the large one for tire dressing application at the moment.

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Aaron1085

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Great thread and input and wow, that 1994 looks amazing.
WD40 all over or specific areas?
 

Cobra Jet

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Great thread and input and wow, that 1994 looks amazing.
WD40 all over or specific areas?
Thanks for the compliments. The WD40 is used mainly on all of the bare metal surfaces - so essentially any metal part that was never painted or coated when the car was manufactured. The WD penetrates any bare porous aluminum or steel surfaces and repels moisture/water/humidity - which is the most common cause of surface oxidation. Even if a car sits stored in a regular garage or a climate controlled garage, bare metal will and can still oxidize. The application of WD prevents that from occurring.

Once I have washed down the engine bay, I close the hood, start the car and let it run for a good 10 mins which bakes off any residual water. After the engine bay is dry, I then just spray the WD over the metal surfaces I’m wanting to protect. Don’t worry if you get the WD on other components, After doing that, I again start the car and let it idle for about 5-10 mins. You may smell some residual WD evaporating from the heat, but trust me, it’s normal and the odor won’t remain (nor is there any chance of fire/ignition from WD being on headers or engine itself).
 

Aaron1085

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Great. Thanks a bunch, what a solid process. I don’t see much ‘untouched’ metal in this 2018 engine bay. It’s also very tight (supercharger takes up that extra knuckle room!).
 

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