Edelbrock E-Force Troubleshooting Manual

[illtal]

A Video will be challenging. The conditions have to be perfect. Free streets and good combination of curves and straights to push the car to the limit.

Btw: Head temperature goes up to 230 despite mmr cooling mod and oil cooler and 70 degrees air temperature.

Dampers: No I am on Pedders Xtreme coilover suspension an several steeda parts linke vertical links and bearings to give the car the best stability for spirited road and track performance.

I never see 230 on the head temps, the damper, I mean the stock lower crank damper. if so that combo, should be ok. you're a gen2 engine right? is it a 2650? what are your IATs like?

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[M-Driver]

A sorry. Crank damper should be stock. Yes it is a gen 2 coyote with an eforce TVS 2650. IAT is good, like 105 I think. When driving IAT is always around 70 degrees above outside air temperature, but I check it exactly next time.

 

[illtal]

A sorry. Crank damper should be stock. Yes it is a gen 2 coyote with an eforce TVS 2650. IAT is good, like 105 I think. When driving IAT is always around 70 degrees above outside air temperature, but I check it exactly next time.

mine is only 30 degrees over ambient Fahrenheit, 105 F is a good number if you're pushing it.

 

[illtal]

A Video will be challenging. The conditions have to be perfect. Free streets and good combination of curves and straights to push the car to the limit.

Btw: Head temperature goes up to 230 despite mmr cooling mod and oil cooler and 70 degrees air temperature.

Dampers: No I am on Pedders Xtreme coilover suspension an several steeda parts like vertical links and bearings to give the car the best stability for spirited road and track performance.

you should look into getting some blower spacer plates

 

[Mickey15]

Dang! That combo is really working! You can use the 2019 Bullitt TB (same as GT350 with different electronics) but honestly it's much better to go with the 103 when you are ready for more. Any one of our dealers can buy the air intake as a stand alone kit and the throttle body is PN 38989 for 2018+.

Boost sounds right for a high-flow exhaust setup with custom tuning. The 3.25 pulley will make about 10-11psi on a stock vehicle running our calibration. The 13psi quoted on our website is a worse case for CARB certification.

I have a 2018 mustang with the stage 1 2650 supercharger kit installed, I was looking at getting the 103mm throttle body. Does that throttle body come with the adapter for it to fit or is that sold separately? If so how much and part number, thanks!

 

[illtal]

I have a 2018 mustang with the stage 1 2650 supercharger kit installed, I was looking at getting the 103mm throttle body. Does that throttle body come with the adapter for it to fit or is that sold separately? If so how much and part number, thanks!

You need the airbox kit to get the TB adapter.

 

[M-Driver]

Yesterday an idler Pulley broke on the Autobahn and ripped apart the belt. Is this a common problem? What caused the damage? Is there a better substitute than the original part?

 

[kenbidwell]

I have a 2015 with the 2300 E Force supercharger. Has anyone with similar unit changed to a 2.75 inch pulley vs the stock 3.0 inch pulley. I am only getting about 575 RWHP with the original set up and would like 600 RWHP. I don't have a real boost gauge, just the factory gauge which uses math to figure out the boost pressure so I really don't know how much boost I'm building. Obviously I don't want to blow the engine but am wondering if anyone else has used the 2.75 inch pulley and how much boost that pulley is making.

 

[Semp1]

After 1 year of tinkering with a custom tune and the issues this blower seems to have in its stock form. Injector upgrades to 1050’s, fuel pump upgrades to a DW400 and the best shop/ tuner for Mustangs and Fords with out a doubt on the East coast (JDM ENGINEERING), finally, the car starts like a stock mustang with a great cold start and drives amazing never running out of fuel and continues to pull to the end. 710 wheel/ 525 tq Intentionally made “conservative” for 93 pump gas. Worth the wait and sacrifice of not being able to drive the car until it was properly dialed in and ready.

 

[illtal]

After 1 year of tinkering with a custom tune and the issues this blower seems to have in its stock form. Injector upgrades to 1050’s, fuel pump upgrades to a DW400 and the best shop/ tuner for Mustangs and Fords with out a doubt on the East coast (JDM ENGINEERING), finally, the car starts like a stock mustang with a great cold start and drives amazing never running out of fuel and continues to pull to the end. 710 wheel/ 525 tq Intentionally made “conservative” for 93 pump gas. Worth the wait and sacrifice of not being able to drive the car until it was properly dialed in and ready.

Intresting that you have such a low centri like torque curve and number, hell even the HP is still climbing where they shut down the pull. Torque should probably be in 600 range, but nice any way. What pulley are you running? Stock lower?

 

[Semp1]

Intresting that you have such a low centri like torque curve and number, hell even the HP is still climbing where they shut down the pull. Torque should probably be in 600 range, but nice any way. What pulley are you running? Stock lower?

Why “should” Tq be in the 600 range to the wheel? Most whipple setups are below that number. Just so you know though my blower is more like a stage 1.5 with a 3.00in 6 rib pulley from a stage 1. A Stage 2 air box upgrade, 1050 injectors, and upgraded DW400 fuel pump due to the fact that the car was running out of fuel with the stock pump. So the tq is a little lower due to the fact that it is a stage 1 pulley set up. But none the less the tq is at a normal range for where the power is at imho. I get what you’re saying but like I said most whipple blowers have less Tq on an 18+.

 

[illtal]

Why “should” Tq be in the 600 range to the wheel? Most whipple setups are below that number. Just so you know though my blower is more like a stage 1.5 with a 3.00in 6 rib pulley from a stage 1. A Stage 2 air box upgrade, 1050 injectors, and upgraded DW400 fuel pump due to the fact that the car was running out of fuel with the stock pump. So the tq is a little lower due to the fact that it is a stage 1 pulley set up. But none the less the tq is at a normal range for where the power is at imho. I get what you’re saying but like I said most whipple blowers have less Tq on an 18+.

No disrespect.... but it should that's the whole point of the TVS.
Yes whipple makes less tq, even less than yours; but your sheet reminds me of a whipple.
well isn't exactly like one but whipple normally have a super flat tq curve throughout the entire rev range. Yes it is low for these kinds of boost levels.

Yes all dynos and days are different but there's a commonality in most of these sheets when it comes to blower designs.

Anyways the point is that I was curious to see if you got porting on your blower which would make it do that as well.

I want to get that same kind of go up top without porting, it seems your tuning is quite a bit different.

If you go back to the previous page my dyno sheet is up, I was on an eddy current dynojet dyno, with a 3.15 pulley, 103mm TB, EB airbox headers and Exhaust so basically apples to apples but the pulley.

I made 704 hp/605 tq on run one and 701 hp /610tq on run two.

I was told I can't really make any more power without risking the engine on 93, I would have to move up to GT260 which I will do for my next pull until I run E85 and then there will be a 5.2 swap for me then I'll compare what ".2" liters of displacement +8K rpms will do.

 

[Semp1]

No disrespect.... but it should that's the whole point of the TVS.
Yes whipple makes less tq, even less than yours; but your sheet reminds me of a whipple.
well isn't exactly like one but whipple normally have a super flat tq curve throughout the entire rev range. Yes it is low for these kinds of boost levels.

Yes all dynos and days are different but there's a commonality in most of these sheets when it comes to blower designs.

Anyways the point is that I was curious to see if you got porting on your blower which would make it do that as well.

I want to get that same kind of go up top without porting, it seems your tuning is quite a bit different.

If you go back to the previous page my dyno sheet is up, I was on an eddy current dynojet dyno, with a 3.15 pulley, 103mm TB, EB airbox headers and Exhaust so basically apples to apples but the pulley.

I made 704 hp/605 tq on run one and 701 hp /610tq on run two.

I was told I can't really make any more power without risking the engine on 93, I would have to move up to GT260 which I will do for my next pull until I run E85 and then there will be a 5.2 swap for me then I'll compare what ".2" liters of displacement +8K rpms will do.

You have a stage 2? Correct. You are making the tq you should with a stage 2 pulley and crank. The parts are different. I have a stage 1. I do not have any porting done to the blower. It’s useless and will do very Little for the power curve. Also your numbers are slightly inflated with your dyno sheet. Smoothing set to 4 instead of 5 on the SAE numbers. Your wheel hp is in the 600’s more than likely not the 700’s. The tq is lower too. Not that it’s much lower but it’s lower 1000%. So don’t think your tq is as high as you see. Smoothing 4 is making it less accurate. If you wanted a real number it’s SAE with smoothing set to 5. Which will Be the most accurate numbers possible. I now can’t compare because I don’t know what your car really makes vs mine In regards to power. Neither do you.

 

[illtal]

You have a stage 2? Correct. You are making the tq you should with a stage 2 pulley and crank. The parts are different. I have a stage 1. I do not have any porting done to the blower. It’s useless and will do very Little for the power curve. Also your numbers are slightly inflated with your dyno sheet. Smoothing set to 4 instead of 5 on the SAE numbers. Your wheel hp is in the 600’s more than likely not the 700’s. The tq is lower too. Not that it’s much lower but it’s lower 1000%. So don’t think your tq is as high as you see. Smoothing 4 is making it less accurate. If you wanted a real number it’s SAE with smoothing set to 5. Which will Be the most accurate numbers possible. I now can’t compare because I don’t know what your car really makes vs mine In regards to power. Neither do you.

I do not have a stage 2 it is a 6 rib.... with the same parts as you save for the fact i'm running a 3.15" whereas you are running a 3.00".

my car still makes about 11lbs of boost on a pull according to my gauge.

let me send you what a stage one roush does.

this is @Roush05 2021 stage one he just bought and picked up a few weeks ago

smoothing does nothing but smooths the graph. EI it interpolates between two points to smooth the graph. Notice above it's SMOOTHER?

since he has a before and after you can likely make a couple of assumptions here it is a STD graph, which is likely a tad high. but notice the shape. it's very similar to mine big swell in tq before 5k and then it tapers off. That's a stock roush tune. I've seen sheets of a whipple non ported and ported. it takes off towards the top end compared to stock one. the shapes are definitely different.



Eddy current dynos have a brake on the drum, it is not an inertia dyno therefore the load is constant so it is not inflated: the reason it looks and acts the way that it does is because I'm spraying methanol, my KnockR is always around -6 and -8 with it turned on. without it on it is around -2 and 0 that would definitely put it in the 600s

 

[Roush05]

let me send you what a stage one roush does.

this is @Roush05 2021 stage one he just bought and picked up a few weeks ago

It is a stage 2 for what it's worth. I haven't read this discussion.

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