Drop in Mahle pistons?

[olaosunt]

Also the 5.2 Alluminator and FPS 350 engines both have valve train upgrades compared “ to the voodoo(PAC springs in the Alluminator/steel Valves and springs in FPS 350 )
The only upgrades (other than the crank- if you want to call it that ) to the short block they have are the Manley H rods(instead of the puny voodoo rods) and billet OPG .

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[ford20]

Who would you have building the motor for you?

In my opinion, from your OP you seem concerned about protecting the motor and making sure that it doesn't blow up on you which is a good thought to have as that could lead to more issues especially considering how it lets go on you. If I were in your shoes I would be doing built bottom end if I was going to open up the engine and not worry about what is drop in and what isn't. At the end of the day, a built short block is going to cost you less than a rebuild in case the engine does blow when you boost it.

 

[john@fatfab]

I was speaking in regards to keeping it flat plane. The 1000-1200 hp range can be done on somewhat of a budget I suppose on the coyotes, but it's still a lot of money. And at that point might as well spend a few more thousand and do it all. Otherwise it will cost you a lot more to do it all over again the following year. Labor isn't cheap either, even if it's your own.

Wh

why so ?
sleeving one is not going to cost anymore than sleeving a coyote .
Ans if you don’t want to go “all the way” , like the Coyote I still think mild Valve train upgrades ,head studs and rod upgrade maybe worth it.especially if you are not planning to make north or 1300 whp.
RPG rates his Gen 2 5.2 short blocks(with rod upgrade ) up to 1300 whp
https://rpgracingengines.com/product/rpg-5-2l-level-2-short-block/

Below that you are more likely to lift heads or bend a rod before you crack a block especially if you have 2019+ which has the Gen 2 block .

 

[Imma Sssnaake]

Well thats the thing y’all, of course bottom end work is the best way to go but your also multiplying the cost, which hurts especially after the large cost of boosting the car. My main question is, what is the most safe route to go when staying stock bottom end? Are there any products besides the mandatory opg/cs that would give a stock motor the best chance of survival?

 

[olaosunt]

I would say head studs ($300-400) based on my experience since my failure may have been due to lifted heads .
if the heads are off might as well do at least a Pac spring upgrade($500) especially since you are going turbo .

 

[Imma Sssnaake]

I would say head studs ($300-400) based on my experience since my failure may have been due to lifted heads .
if the heads are off might as well do at least a Pac spring upgrade($500) especially since you are going turbo .

Yeah that’s the way I am leaning, thank you for the input!

 

[john@fatfab]

That is about as far as I would go without doing a full build. But honestly once you get into 4 digit power territory on stock engines you are on dangerous ground. We don't do valve springs until we are doing a full build. Our turbo kit design is super efficient so we don't experience the valve float due to back pressure on our 1000R package builds which make around 960-980 at the tire. We have tuned cars with other brand turbo kits and they start floating the valves a little over 800 hp or so with stock valve springs.

I would say head studs ($300-400) based on my experience since my failure may have been due to lifted heads .
if the heads are off might as well do at least a Pac spring upgrade($500) especially since you are going turbo .

 

[honeybadger]

That is about as far as I would go without doing a full build. But honestly once you get into 4 digit power territory on stock engines you are on dangerous ground. We don't do valve springs until we are doing a full build. Our turbo kit design is super efficient so we don't experience the valve float due to back pressure on our 1000R package builds which make around 960-980 at the tire. We have tuned cars with other brand turbo kits and they start floating the valves a little over 800 hp or so with stock valve springs.

There's a good point to highlight here. If do you choose to go down the route of something like Helions bolt-on kit, make sure you do dyno tuning live with someone who knows what they're doing and really makes sure your setup is working for your power levels. You want to detect issues early and a good dyno day + tuner can really help with that (also, get your oil analyzed by blackstone labs or someone similar).

 

[Imma Sssnaake]

There's a good to highlight here. If do you choose to go down the route of something like Helions bolt-on kit, make sure you do dyno tuning live with someone who knows what they're doing and really makes sure your setup is working for your power levels. You want to detect issues early and a good dyno day + tuner can really help with that (also, get your oil analyzed by blackstone labs or someone similar).

I plan to have Fat House remote tune the car on the shop who installs the kits dyno, I bought a HPtuners MPV12 from them so hopefully they can get it running right.

 

[Imma Sssnaake]

That is about as far as I would go without doing a full build. But honestly once you get into 4 digit power territory on stock engines you are on dangerous ground. We don't do valve springs until we are doing a full build. Our turbo kit design is super efficient so we don't experience the valve float due to back pressure on our 1000R package builds which make around 960-980 at the tire. We have tuned cars with other brand turbo kits and they start floating the valves a little over 800 hp or so with stock valve springs.

I wish I could do y’alls kit, y’all did the 1000R on my fathers GT500 and that thing is just awesome. But theoretically, upgraded valve springs would be the best way to prevent the valve float caused by other companies turbo kits? I wouldn’t want to push it past 750whp on E85 but always better safe than sorry.

 

[john@fatfab]

If your not going to try and make more than 800 hp, I will just do the OPG/CS and get on with it. You shouldn't see valve float or have to worry about lifting the heads at that power level. About the only way I would do the springs and head studs would be if I had the engine down out of the car anyways and just wanted a little extra insurance I suppose.

We have recently released our turbo kit in a tuner kit form. That would be headers, turbos, wastegates, blow off valve, intercooler, intercooler pipes and our custom 2 into on coupler for the lower intercooler pipes. That is it though it would be upon you to finish out the kit to your liking. No other lines, fittings, scavenge pump or wiring supplies.

I wish I could do y’alls kit, y’all did the 1000R on my fathers GT500 and that thing is just awesome. But theoretically, upgraded valve springs would be the best way to prevent the valve float caused by other companies turbo kits? I wouldn’t want to push it past 750whp on E85 but always better safe than sorry.

 

[mech94]

If your not going to try and make more than 800 hp, I will just do the OPG/CS and get on with it. You shouldn't see valve float or have to worry about lifting the heads at that power level. About the only way I would do the springs and head studs would be if I had the engine down out of the car anyways and just wanted a little extra insurance I suppose.

We have recently released our turbo kit in a tuner kit form. That would be headers, turbos, wastegates, blow off valve, intercooler, intercooler pipes and our custom 2 into on coupler for the lower intercooler pipes. That is it though it would be upon you to finish out the kit to your liking. No other lines, fittings, scavenge pump or wiring supplies.

link for tuner kit?

 

[RPDBlueMoon]

The only thing I would do to a stock voodoo engine would be oil pump gears. Anything beyond that starts with sleeving the block. Be prepared to spend some coin to do so.

What would the purpose of doing oil pump gears?

 

[john@fatfab]

I spoke too soon, it hasn't been posted yet. The price will be around 14,999. This is what it will look like though:

Xona Rotor XR7868 W/Housing W/Fittings
Billet Merge Collector Heavy Wall SS Turbo Headers
Turbo Outlet V Band Clamps
Turbo Inlet V Band Clamps
Tial MVS Wastegates
Custom Air Filters

Tial BOV
Intercooler with Billet End tanks
Intercooler Bracket
Intercooler Hard Piping Kit
Intercooler Silicone Coupler 2.00" Straight
Intercooler Silicone Coupler 3.00" Straight
Intercooler Silicone Coupler 3.50" Straight
Intercooler Silicone Reducer Coupler 3.50" to 3.75"
2" Breeze Constant Torque Clamps (2.50)
3" Breeze High Torque Clamps (3.50)
3.5" Breeze High Torque Clamps (4.00)
4.0" Breeze High Torque Clamps (4.50)
Formed Intercooler 2 into 1 Merge
Turbowerx Scavenge Pump
Scavenge Pump Mounting Bracket
Turbo Oil Drain Canister W/Tab for 3 Port Mount

 

[john@fatfab]

The factory gears are a cast piece, not billet. Some have seen the gears shatter which in turn will take our the engine. It seems to be more common on the cars that are boosted, so probably caused by the increased stress of the rpms coming up quicker. Others have ran stock opgs with not problem at all, while others have had failures. I think its just luck of the draw when your are dealing with castings. Some may have some minor voids or stresses in them that don't present themselves til they are pushed a little harder with power adders.

What would the purpose of doing oil pump gears?

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