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Driveshaft ticking in Mach 1

murick

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I am looking for any comment or advice on my problem and/or my attempt to analyse it :) as I would explain below.

After passing the annual check at my Ford dealer, where they changed the engine oil and "adjusted" my shifter (more on that later), and then passing by another Ford shop for getting fixed the front right/passenger wheel fender liner, I noticed that my Mach 1 started to tick.

Just for the record I have an "Euro Mach 1" with Tremec, which comes with 1:3.55 LSD (i.e. not a Torsen as the US model), but apart from that, it is basically a non-HP US version, with all options included.

The first dealer was "adjusting" my shifter, because of my complain about a grinding noise in the 2nd gear (there is a thread in Mach 1 subforum on the topic, so it is not something unknown, but the definitive solution was not posted so far - apart from replacing the shifter with an aftermarket one - which I intend to do, but have not done yet). When I was asking what exactly they did to the shifter, the answer was that the technician "had adjusted it", which did not explain anything, but since I did not know at that time if the intervention helped at all, I let it be. Anyway, it is safe to assume he moved either the shifter mount, or might have touched even something else...

The guys fixing the fender liner should not come anywhere close to the drivetrain, they just remounted the engine bay deflector and redid the fender liner with pushpins.

So after those two repairs I noticed a new sound in the cabin. It only starts to appear when driving over 50-55 kph (would be 31-34 mph). I caught it first in the 4th gear, but then noticed it in the 3rd as well, and then realized it does not depend on the gear, but on the ground speed. I can hear it even when I put in neutral and/or push the clutch, so the engine is idling at 900 rpm. With a gear high enough to keep the engine quiet I can confirm it up to 70 kph (44 mph), after that I am not sure whether it fades out by itself, or just gets shadowed by the engine, or both. What is clear though is the lower limit. When driving slower I cannot hear that.

I tried to record it, but the recording turned out to be very subtle (it is much clearer in the real life) and difficult to use as a demonstration. However I was able to filter the recording to the point I could "measure" the frequency of the tick and it seems to be perfectly matching the rpms of the driveshaft (considering the ground speed and the diff ratio). The hypothesis that the problem is with the driveshaft also complements the other observations about being non dependent on the gears.

Now what I am wondering and hoping maybe someone might give some insights about is which part could fail to produce this behavior. I understand it should be related to the driveshaft, could be also the differential, but probably not the rear (or front) axle, since then the frequency of the tick will be different. The strange part is also how the manifestation depends on the speed the change from "not audible" to "clearly audible" is very well pronounced.

I am going to see my dealer ASAP, so any tips to what to ask them or tell them are also appreciated.
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NGOT8R

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I recall reading posts on here about a part number sticker on the driveshaft coming loose and flapping around (almost like attaching a playing card on a bike and letting it flap against the spokes). See example here.

 

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A rock is stuck in the tire
 
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murick

murick

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I recall reading posts on here about a part number sticker on the driveshaft coming loose and flapping around (almost like attaching a playing card on a bike and letting it flap against the spokes). See example here.
I plan to check the driveshaft as soon as I can, but it will take some time nonetheless (cannot do it at home). Anyway thanks for the tip.
A rock is stuck in the tire
This was my first idea as well, but unfortunately, I did not find anything in the tires. Besides, if it was stuck there, it would be audible right from the start and not from 50 kph, plus as I wrote, the ticking frequency corresponds to the driveshaft rpm, not the tire rpm.
 

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Check for the peeling/loose label as mentioned above, it was a common issue and does make a tick noise per revolution.


Check the emergency brake cable and attaching assembly found under the driver side trans tunnel. This has been a known source of tick/rattle as well and is hard to replicate unless in a certain RPM range. When the cable is loose, it vibrates or raps against the trans tunnel under certain conditions OR could be touching exhaust mid pipe. How to adjust the cable and assembly:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-adjust-your-parking-brake.25204/
 

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murick

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One more to add to those three

- loose metal shield on the two peice driveshaft support collar. Thats what my ticking issue was. It wasnt the ebrake or a sticker, and some metal tape solved it.
 
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murick

murick

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One more to add to those three

- loose metal shield on the two peice driveshaft support collar. Thats what my ticking issue was. It wasnt the ebrake or a sticker, and some metal tape solved it.
Just to make sure I got you right. By "two piece support collar" you mean the central bearing housing support?

I guess what is metal shield I will know once I see it, but I am curious, how exactly did it move around? The only thing I could imagine is just shaking from vibrations, but at the central bearing, I would expect the vibrations will be minimal (relative to vibrations on any other part of the driveshaft).
 

NightmareMoon

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Just to make sure I got you right. By "two piece support collar" you mean the central bearing housing support?

I guess what is metal shield I will know once I see it, but I am curious, how exactly did it move around? The only thing I could imagine is just shaking from vibrations, but at the central bearing, I would expect the vibrations will be minimal (relative to vibrations on any other part of the driveshaft).

Yes the support bearing. The plate on my car is on the bottom and its about 3-4" and held on by 2 small rivets. If the rivets get loose, it can rattle. I think it probably shields the exhaust below from any grease which might come off the bearing?

ICE engines and driveshafts are not free of vibration. It only took a little to get this thing to sing on my car, and only at the speeds you mentioned. Its probably a harmonic for that plate, so doesn't take much.
 

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murick

murick

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Yesterday I lifted the car. Unfortunately, it was on a scissor jack, which made some parts difficult to access and it was in a shop, where I was a bit limited by the time and the environment.

What was worse, I did not really check the e-break cable because I forgot to release the e-break after lifting the car 🙄, nor the central bearing (actually I was not able to see it at all). The bearing seems to be right above the resonator, plus it is being separated by the heat shield. So without removing the resonator and shield it can only be accessed along the driveshaft from the front or the back and it is quite deep from both sides. I could not get my hand there not even touch it.

Where I was able to reach by touch I did not find anything suspicious (e.g. loose sticker).
I did find some plastic tube protecting the e-break cable running to the rear wheel having some play, and fixed it to the heat insulation with a piece of metal tape, but it was more out of desperation than that I would really believe it to be a cause (it was not).

Few pics to document the effort.

Front to rear view along the driveshaft (I believe the central bearing is the dark "collar" on the shaft):
IMG_20230509_192559.jpg


Rear to front view:
IMG_20230509_192804.jpg


Tube I found to have some back and forth play:
IMG_20230509_193048_mark.jpg


Finally, not really related, but something that I found unexpected. One of the wires from the exhaust sensor was just stuffed into one of the transmission's outer compartments. I checked around but did not find any specific mount or fixing point anywhere near, yet still refuse to believe this is supposed to be the correct cabling.
IMG_20230509_194459_mark.jpg


I guess for the proper review, I would need to lose the exhaust and the heat shield above, but this is basically far above what I could or would do. So the car is going to the shop for the review.

Considering that the ticking is very well defined between 48 kph (30 mph) where it is becoming audible, 50 kph (31 mph) where it is clearly audible, with peak around 56 kph (35 mph) and disappearing around 70 kph (44 mph) and the increased vibrations I perceive with that, I am more and more convinced it is a mechanical problem with the driveshaft.
 

NGOT8R

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What is this in your pic that I have circled in green with an arrow? It looks like it could possibly be a loose sticker. I say it’s worth a second look.

As far as the oxygen sensor cable goes, just zip tie it to the nearest cable or something.

I actually just installed new sensors in my headers this afternoon and zip tied them off as seen here.

1683755483542.jpeg

1683755506027.jpeg
 
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murick

murick

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What is this in your pic that I have circled in green with an arrow? It looks like it could possibly be a loose sticker. I say it’s worth a second look.
Indeed, what did you circle in green and where? :)

Otherwise, I might give it a second look anyway, but should better prepare. Good tip with the zip tie, though I am not sure if the zip ties I have are rated to any elevated temp above ambient. Could be risky to tie it to the trans, but leaving it just hanging there like that does not seem any better...

Seems your underbody looks a bit different than mine though. I wonder whether the difficulties I faced when accessing the central support are related to that.
 

NGOT8R

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Indeed, what did you circle in green and where? :)

Otherwise, I might give it a second look anyway, but should better prepare. Good tip with the zip tie, though I am not sure if the zip ties I have are rated to any elevated temp above ambient. Could be risky to tie it to the trans, but leaving it just hanging there like that does not seem any better...

Seems your underbody looks a bit different than mine though. I wonder whether the difficulties I faced when accessing the central support are related to that.
My bad, I forgot to post your pic back up. Here it is. The piece I’m referring to looks like a small triangular shape.

1683761748692.jpeg


The cable ties I use aren’t specifically made for heat or anything, so I think you’ll be fine with any that you order. I’ e had mine zip tied to the transmitting for almost 7K miles now with no problems. When I cut them off, there was no sign of any heat damage to them. I bought mine on Amazon.

The undercarriages are different on our cars. Mine is a 2019 Bullitt with an MT82-D4 transmission and some external fluid lines added.
 
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murick

murick

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My bad, I forgot to post your pic back up. Here it is. The piece I’m referring to looks like a small triangular shape.

1683761748692.jpeg
Good eye, sir!

I believe it is the same thing which is barely visible from the other side:
IMG_20230509_192559_mark.jpg


It looks like it is attached to (protruding from) the square bracket (support), which probably keeps the central bearing in place. Might be a bolt head. I definitely need a better light (the light I had was too bulky).

The cable ties I use aren’t specifically made for heat or anything, so I think you’ll be fine with any that you order. I’ e had mine zip tied to the transmitting for almost 7K miles now with no problems. When I cut them off, there was no sign of any heat damage to them. I bought mine on Amazon.
Alright, I am going to try something similar.
Thanks!
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