Does The EcoBoost Need A Catch Can?

[doulos4jc]

It is a non PP. How do i remove the engine cover?

Four nuts on cover, I had to take cover off and pry white clips off with a screwdriver. Once you get white clips off of the quick disconnects the hose comes off easily. They were a real pain for me. Dunno if its cuz if have big hands but the install was quite the challenge. I have the PP, there's no way I could have gotten the engine block side from the top

Sponsored

 

[boosted_orange]

Don't need to jack up the car I took mine off from the top

 

[UPRjoe]

Installing Mustang Ecoboost Catch Can Video....

Just tried to install my catch can. Couldnt remove the quick disconnect fitting from the intake manifold. Could someone please explain how to remove them? Also do i have to use jack stands to remove the engine block hose or can it be done without raising the car?

Here is a quick install video to get the idea on removing the clips to install your catch can if you have the Mishimoto or UPR the install and accessing the clips
is the trick to see them and know what your working with. As for the white clips you do not remove them or pull them out as they are all PUSH button release
style connectors. It's generally easier to push the white button with a flat head screwdriver and slide the ends off.

Basically get both the clean and dirty side lines routed and connected on the Mishimoto before you install the bracket or catch can and this will work the best.
The install can be done from the top and it just requires you to reach behind the airbox and under the intake with your palm facing upwards to access the lower
oil pan dirty side connection. The 12" long screwdriver will allow you to be able to place the head of the screwdriver on the lower push button clip at the oil pan
and then you can squeeze it against the button and slide the hose end off.

Overall the install should not take long at all. Once you hoses are snapped on and the set then you will install the Mishimoto catch can bracket and then the can
and lastly your hoses and you should be all set. Now you can enjoy your catch can and have a bit of protection in place...

https://plus.google.com/111368442576496538340/posts/QG7gbDJdZ3H

https://plus.google.com/111368442576496538340/posts/eDPXTjoyafu

:cheers:

 

[Mishimoto]

you guys would benefit from some kind of DIY valve cleaning system, be it a material blast or chemical. Most every ecoboost owner would have to face that at some point in the life of the car, especially if they are picking these up second hand or have buildup regardless. That would fit any ecoboost ford or any DI for that matter. I want 10% for the idea

Interesting idea! It does sound as if the EB will require some form of valve cleaning/maintenance down the line. Thanks for the recommendation!

Just tried to install my catch can. Couldnt remove the quick disconnect fitting from the intake manifold. Could someone please explain how to remove them? Also do i have to use jack stands to remove the engine block hose or can it be done without raising the car?

The white ring on the fitting is the retainer clip. Pull it up until the fitting is free to slide off the intake. Same thing at the engine connection.

If you have the PP and don't have tiny hands you'll most likely have to jack it up to get to the fitting. If you don't have the PP you may be able to get to the engine connection from the top.

Sorry you are having issues with installation! Thanks for chiming in Dirtleg. To remove the stock quick connect, simply press the white area on the clip noted in the image below and pull the line from the manifold.

For the rest of the installation process, be sure to check out our video guide below.

[ame]

Thanks
-John

It is a non PP. How do i remove the engine cover?

That's easy, there's just two nuts and two bolts to remove from the top of the engine cover, and it comes right off. You want 8mm and 10mm sockets if I remember right.

However, I have a hell of a time getting my hands in there still, and still need to get some jackstands or something (and figure out where to put 'em) to get under the car.

Thanks! The engine cover is easily removed and is attached via 4 mounting points. You will need to remove the two 8mm bolts and the two 10mm nuts. Once complete, the cover can be removed.

Let us know if you have any additional install difficulties!

Don't need to jack up the car I took mine off from the top

Yes, installation is possible from the top of the vehicle depending upon hand/arm size.

 

[Ron@cp-e]

@ Mishimoto
so if this can is in line between the intake manifold and PCV - under boost, is the can pressurized?
Have you tested the OEM PCV under boost pressure?

The PCV on this block is identical to the MZR which required and check valve between the intake manifold and catch can especially when the car is tuned and pushing higher boost levels than stock

 

[Ron@cp-e]

@ Mishimoto
so if this can is in line between the intake manifold and PCV - under boost, is the can pressurized?
Have you tested the OEM PCV under boost pressure?

The PCV on this block is identical to the MZR which required and check valve between the intake manifold and catch can especially when the car is tuned and pushing higher boost levels than stock

quoting myself & BUMP for Mishimoto

I ordered one of these cans from American Muscle
I'd like to know if I need a check valve and what are type of thread for the 90 degree plastic fittings so I can swap for anodized aluminum fittings on my set up

It's nice to see vendors plastering these boards when they have new product but the follow up kind of sux....just sayin'

 

[UPRjoe]

UPR has fittings and check valves that you can incorporate into the mishimoto system.

Joe

 

[Mishimoto]

@ Mishimoto
so if this can is in line between the intake manifold and PCV - under boost, is the can pressurized?
Have you tested the OEM PCV under boost pressure?

The PCV on this block is identical to the MZR which required and check valve between the intake manifold and catch can especially when the car is tuned and pushing higher boost levels than stock

quoting myself & BUMP for Mishimoto

I ordered one of these cans from American Muscle
I'd like to know if I need a check valve and what are type of thread for the 90 degree plastic fittings so I can swap for anodized aluminum fittings on my set up

It's nice to see vendors plastering these boards when they have new product but the follow up kind of sux....just sayin'

Sorry for the delayed response! We are doing our best to get around to the boards as much as possible. As noted in a few earlier posts, our system is essentially identical to the stock PCV system and will function in the same manner. We are simply placing a catch can in-line to capture the contaminants passing through it. The OEM PCV valve is retained and should not allow pressure of any significance to enter the crankcase. Additionally, our catch can is a completely sealed unit so it is able to be pressurized by the intake without any negative impact. Perhaps the MZR can you are referring to was not a completely sealed setup?

The fittings we use on the catch can lid are a 3/8" NPT thread. Any aluminum fitting with this particular thread should work!

Let us know if you have any additional questions!

-John

 

[Dirtleg]

So I guess an update is in order here.

I've put about 1400 miles on since installing my catch can. Opened it up today after 1000 miles since I last checked and found basically nothing in there. A couple of CC's of mostly fuel blowby from what I can tell. There was a little oily sludge in the mix but it wasn't in any way significant.

I'm surprised by the low, low amount of blowby. Expected much more.

Now onto the first, and only so far, flaw in this part. The O-Ring. The standard O-ring is I believe of Buna-N construction. While it may handle oil just fine we're introducing fuel, spent exhaust gases and heat to the equation. As such I noticed the first time I checked the catch can that it was getting loose. This time it has swollen beyond it's service limit. Mind you it's only been installed for 4 weeks. So I'd guess these O-rings are low grade even for Buna-N. Sorry Mishimoto but it's true and unacceptable. This is what I'd expect from the Dormans of the world not you. You can do better.

Standard Buna is good from -30 to about 250*F. I decided Viton would be a much better solution (-15 to 400*F and much greater chemical resistance) in this application and as such have decided to share my solution with anyone who may need or want to know.

For the record, I truly believe based on my real world experiences, that any O-ring under the hood of a car should be Viton at the minimum or better. I've bought enough of them to fix leaky this and that over the years. From BMW hydroboost to Diesel injection pumps.

I believe the trade size for this O-Ring is a 139. Correct me if I'm wrong Mishimoto as it was a little difficult to get the exact size due to it being swollen but 138 seemed to small.

I ordered a pack of 10 for $6.35 from McMaster-Carr. Part #9464K139.
By comparison the same size in Buna-N was $6.12 for 50.

So all in all I'm still happy with the unit as really it's just an o-ring but hey if we never give any feedback, good or bad, how can things get better.

That's it for now.

 

[RubyRacer]

Thanks for the info, Dirtleg.

Also, here's my install video from today. It was a big pain for a small job, really... I've done parts of supercharger installs that weren't as annoying as fitting these parts in this engine bay. I don't know how I ever had room to do work on my 5.0 Coyotes!

[ame]

 

[goodwill]

whats the main different between the UPR Dual valve and the Mishimoto one? it seems to me that the UPR is built better

Thanks first timer here

 

[Nihil]

I managed to get mine installed today. I got the pcv side off and installed without raising the car this time. I removed air box and slide my hand under the intake manifold and under the 3 T radiator hose connection and right above the engine mount and could get my hand around the connector and press down on it with my thumb to release it. I left some notes on the mishimoto's youtube install video(which had some missing info I believe)

 

[dragonacc]

whats the main different between the UPR Dual valve and the Mishimoto one? it seems to me that the UPR is built better

Thanks first timer here

UPR has a more complex internal design and dual valves which supply the car with two sources of vacuum for the PCV system.

With the Mishimoto can (and other single valve cans) when the car builds boost the can gets pressurized and the PCV system will run in reverse pushing oil out the original vacuum source (right where the turbo inlet is). Basically without more than one source of vacuum for the system the can will only function when the car is out of boost.

 

[goodwill]

so ur saying a single valve is better?
or mishi product better or UPR better? i personally don't mind spending the money i just want as little carbon buildup as possible
thanks for the fastest reply

 

[dragonacc]

so ur saying a single valve is better?
or mishi product better or UPR better? i personally don't mind spending the money i just want as little carbon buildup as possible
thanks for the fastest reply

No a single valve isn't better. When you hit the gas and the car builds boost a single valve is literally not doing anything so your engine is unprotected during those times.

A dual valve can works when driving normally and in boost. Bottom line, if you barely ever drive hard you may not see the benefit. But if you don't mind spending a bit more the dual valve is better.

Sponsored