Do I need 50w oil?

[chuckhammer]

I don't buy the 540 rat blog data.

I would urge anyone to research oil specs. Nearly every oil spec is a compromise, especially the American ones. The ACEA A3/B4 is the only industry PCMO spec written specifically to cater to performance engines. It has rigorous minimums for ZDDP concentration and HTHS. No 5w20 and most 5w30's won't pass, though there are some 5w30's that will. Also, the ZDDP minimum is at odds with after SL if I recall correctly due to long term cat protection concerns, so the A3/B4 5w30's will only be certified to SL. Oddly, API allowed higher ZDDP in the 5w40's in the later specs so you can get a 5w40 that's both API SP and ACEA A3/B4.

So would you prefer an oil that caters to [arguably] protecting cats for 300k miles or protecting your high wear components in high performance engines?

I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 for a few years in different cars that call for 5W-30. The bottle's back label currently says "exceeds ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1." I dug around a little bit and couldn't find a clear explanation of the differences between A3/4/5, B3/4/5 spec oils. Are you able to help educate me? Thanks in advance.

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[K4fxd]

The A3/B4 spec is a oil performance spec. Wear protection.

The others are emissions specs.

Google is your friend

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Euro+spec+oils+A3/B4+vs+A4/B5

 

[engineermike]

https://www.infineum.com/media/ryidwzql/acea-2022-oil-sequences-updated-jun-2022.pdf

 

[vaeevictiss]

Here's the stuff for you. Run this and report back.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...EWHyu1fksXhBzByV9153gQ_nluLgw0sBoC6a0QAvD_BwE

Lol never even heard of that weight

 

[K4fxd]

Lol never even heard of that weight

Nascar guys started running that back in the days when they had qualifying motors.

 

[chuckhammer]

I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 for a few years in different cars that call for 5W-30. The bottle's back label currently says "exceeds ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1." I dug around a little bit and couldn't find a clear explanation of the differences between A3/4/5, B3/4/5 spec oils. Are you able to help educate me? Thanks in advance.

Looks like I'd have to move to a synthetic 5W-40 to neet the A3/B4 spec, due to the higher HTHS requirements. Seems like a good idea for sustained high power use where the oil stays above 230°F, such as on track.

 

[engineermike]

Lol never even heard of that weight

On the back it says “fights sludge”. Well duh, water doesn’t make sludge.

 

[GregO]

The Definition of SLUDGE;

 

[SheepDog]

Lol never even heard of that weight

Yessir. It'll give you 1.123565234 extra Herspers

 

[Jstang23]

Looks like I'd have to move to a synthetic 5W-40 to neet the A3/B4 spec, due to the higher HTHS requirements. Seems like a good idea for sustained high power use where the oil stays above 230°F, such as on track.

I'm sorry but if you are exceeding 230 degrees oil temperature you are damaging the engine either way. If you're looking at the CHT gauge you shouldn't be exceeding 240-245 degrees, which is where the engine starts to pull timing to prevent you bending your heads.

Oil temperature lags that rating by about 15-20 degrees, so If you are exceeding 230 then you have already blown past what's considered safe for the coyote.

 

[furdfan2018]

I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 for a few years in different cars that call for 5W-30. The bottle's back label currently says "exceeds ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1." I dug around a little bit and couldn't find a clear explanation of the differences between A3/4/5, B3/4/5 spec oils. Are you able to help educate me? Thanks in advance.

That is excellent oil. Sleep good at night and enjoy knowing your motor is being protected.

 

[MrMike]

Didn't the Australia 2015-2017 Mustangs get spec'd with 5W-30 and the motors are exactly the same?

I'm a pretty big skeptic regarding oil conversations and I still feel like a lot of what floats around the internet regarding oil is more religion than science.

With that said, there is sufficient evidence to suggest that the 5W-20 recommendation is nonsense for enthusiasts compared to 5W-30.

Plenty of recommendations from manufacturers of supercharger kits to run heavier like 0W-40 or 5W-50.

I don't buy the 540 rat blog data.

I would urge anyone to research oil specs. Nearly every oil spec is a compromise, especially the American ones. The ACEA A3/B4 is the only industry PCMO spec written specifically to cater to performance engines. It has rigorous minimums for ZDDP concentration and HTHS. No 5w20 and most 5w30's won't pass, though there are some 5w30's that will. Also, the ZDDP minimum is at odds with after SL if I recall correctly due to long term cat protection concerns, so the A3/B4 5w30's will only be certified to SL. Oddly, API allowed higher ZDDP in the 5w40's in the later specs so you can get a 5w40 that's both API SP and ACEA A3/B4.

So would you prefer an oil that caters to [arguably] protecting cats for 300k miles or protecting your high wear components in high performance engines?

Don't some of the newer Dexos specs include wear protection also? There are very few 5W-20s that seem to pass them.

 

[K4fxd]

Don't some of the newer Dexos specs include wear protection also?

I think they added a chain wear rating, but the A3/B4 spec covers it.

 

[chuckhammer]

I'm sorry but if you are exceeding 230 degrees oil temperature you are damaging the engine either way. If you're looking at the CHT gauge you shouldn't be exceeding 240-245 degrees, which is where the engine starts to pull timing to prevent you bending your heads.

Oil temperature lags that rating by about 15-20 degrees, so If you are exceeding 230 then you have already blown past what's considered safe for the coyote.

I realize the factory oil temperature gauge in our cars uses an algorithm rather than direct measurement. However, doesn't the start of the yellow represent 280°?

 

[Jstang23]

I realize the factory oil temperature gauge in our cars uses an algorithm rather than direct measurement. However, doesn't the start of the yellow represent 280°?

Sort of, I believe that is when the gauge starts to read red. My gauge doesn't have numbers but the 15-20 degrees less is a great rule of thumb to follow. But again, if your oil is reaching above 240 your CHT assuming nothing broke in your engine should be 15-20 degrees higher, which is very BAD. Just because you paid for the whole oil gauge doesn't mean you should use the whole oil gauge, lol!

Also keep in mind the oil gauge is not a linear representation. So where green ends and where yellow ends is roughly a 40 degree difference.

Edit: This is also assuming you have a stock engine. If you've added other cooling modifications to your car its possible to have a higher oil temperature than CHT temp. Although you have to have one hell of a cooling system.

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