Differential Issue When Turning Sharp (Dangerous!!!)

[Jaymar]

The 2022 Mustang GT Premium California Special specs show it comes with a Torsen Rear-End:
2022 Ford Mustang GT California Special (topspeed.com)

This is pretty much normal behavior for the Torsen, as mine also does this exact same thing occasionally.

Only if you got the PP1 package in conjunction with it, every other CS/GT gets the plain old clutch type like every other GT.

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[HolubS]

My 2018 Ecoboost differential starting grinding when turning slow shortly after the 5 year warranty was up. Dealer installed some friction modifier, which did nothing. They pulled the differential, replaced a $50 clutch pack (and the broken spring) and $800 later it is as quiet as when I bought it.

 

[TeeLew]

My 2018 Ecoboost differential starting grinding when turning slow shortly after the 5 year warranty was up. Dealer installed some friction modifier, which did nothing. They pulled the differential, replaced a $50 clutch pack (and the broken spring) and $800 later it is as quiet as when I bought it.

Ya, but the Torsen doesn't have a clutch pack or preload spring.

 

[shogun32]

Ya, but the Torsen doesn't have a clutch pack or preload spring.

correct but we have yet to ascertain if OP has a PP1 trim CS. It was not available till 21 or perhaps 22.

 

[RazzaRossa]

Take the Service Manager for a ride and demonstrate the problem, or let him drive it with you in it so he can get a first hand experience, do it in a parking lot though...

 

[shogun32]

Take the Service Manager for a ride and demonstrate the problem, or let him drive it with you in it so he can get a first hand experience, do it in a parking lot though...

bah humbug, do it in front of an inbound semi and he'll find religion REAL QUICK like.

 

[RazzaRossa]

bah humbug, do it in front of an inbound semi and he'll find religion REAL QUICK like.

Then you'll have to clean the drivers seat too!

 

[WildHorse]

The el-cheap-ass S spring in the diff may be sacked or broken.

First, I believe his is a torsen, second, I beat the fook outta my 'el-cheap-ass' s spring diff. Still going strong after 60k & a 3.31 to 3.73 gear swap. Also the great thing about senior cheapo.. it's rebuildable.

 

[LDHunter]

correct but we have yet to ascertain if OP has a PP1 trim CS. It was not available till 21 or perhaps 22.

Sorry.... I've had a long day... I bought the car new and according to the invoice it does NOT have the PP1 trim. It was a special order that the purchaser couldn't buy when it came in and I got the opportunity to grab it. Except for this differential problem I LOVE this car.

 

[LDHunter]

bah humbug, do it in front of an inbound semi and he'll find religion REAL QUICK like.

I'll pass on that one.... LOL

I DO intend to NOT leave the dealership until at least one of the service techs or the service manager will take a ride with me and let me demonstrate the problem and NO that won't be in front of a semi...

 

[LDHunter]

Someone said I had both rear tires spinning. I don't think that's possible because I'm not using near enough power for both tires to spin. What might be happening is that the tire on the outside of the curve is losing traction because it's suddenly getting all the power and that tire is the one with most of the weight on it. That would cause me to suddenly have the rear end whip around on me. Make sense?

Would that be possible? First the inside tire has the power going to it and suddenly the power is transferred to the outside tire? There is some weird shuddering going on in the differential when this is happening. Like a clutch slipping and grabbing and slipping and grabbing.... Make sense?

I keep hoping that the OEM Pirellis will crap out on me. I wish they were under warranty and I could somehow prove that they provide poor traction. I can tell y'all this for sure... In the rain they're really horrible and hydroplane at the drop of a hat or should I say raindrop? ;)

 

[Bluemustang]

1) use throttle control. 2) OEM Pirellis suck. 3) The Traklok diff sucks. Get a Torsen. 4) Don't forget #1.

The Mustang is a car that likes to get loose and sideways at low speeds if you goose it aggressively. The setup is loose and if your car is stock... all the soft ass bushings in the car make it do all sorts of unpredictable things. It sounds like the car or you are not setup for what you're trying to do.

 

[Bluemustang]

Ya, but the Torsen doesn't have a clutch pack or preload spring.

And the Torsens are really hard to break too. They aren't really worked on aside from changing the fluid. If it does break you basically just replace the whole diff, but they rarely do break. It's a very reliable very effective type of differential.

 

[TeeLew]

And the Torsens are really hard to break too. They aren't really worked on aside from changing the fluid. If it does break you basically just replace the whole diff, but they rarely do break. It's a very reliable very effective type of differential.

In the moment, I was thinking a broken gear or something, but I bet the diff has nothing to do with it.

I bet there's a bushing that has given up in the rear suspension or the rear camber adjuster is loose or in some way you've got a wheel alignment moving around.

Diffs fail in the safe direction, towards a 1-wheel peel. The only way they fail locked is if you've made damned sure it has failed locked.

 

[Timbuck]

interesting problem you have.

i Tend to agree with others stating , how hard it is to get sideways if you only have one wheel spinning. “The old one wheel squealer”.
Add to that OEM tyres suck….. even in the dry if tyres are not up to temp it’s very easy to go sideways under part throttle , once hot you have to “try” to get sideways in dry condition.
maybe it has nothing to do with the diff at all and is a suspension problem as previously mentioned.

Is this happening in wet or dry conditions ???
and in normal drive mode and traction control on ??

good luck with it , hope they sort it out for you.

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