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Diff fluid change-HELP!

thebaldlatino5.0

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So I just rolled over 41k miles on my 17 GT. I'm about to change the trans fluid here in a few weeks, and was thinking if it'd be a good idea to get some diff fluid to do that as well. Opinions and suggestions please!
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Elp_jc

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I'd definitely do it too. In fact, it's reportedly more important to change the diff first, due to the black oxide coating on the gears, which contaminates the oil. I'm planning to change both tranny and diff on my Bullitt on the 2nd oil change at 6K miles (4K at the moment).

I'm leaning towards Motul DCT-F for the tranny, and 75/90 for the diff. But might decide to stick with stock fluids; we'll see. Ha ha.
 

gadgtfreek

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Well, that's convenient that they put something on the gears to contaminate the oil well before recommended service...
 

Rapid Red

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Arknsawchuck

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I changed mine at 3000 miles and used royal purple. I just wanted to get any break in trash out. I was really amazed at the amount of goo that was on the diff plug. No metal, just goo.
 

JohnVallo

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I did a gear swap in my GT350 at around 12,000 miles. I saved the factory fill OEM fluid in a clean gallon plastic jug. I believe this fluid stayed on the shelf about 6 months. (With plenty of time for contaminates to settle). Upon inspection I noticed some black residue had settled to the bottom of the jug.
Here in the second photo I turned the same jug on its side and you can see the residue stayed on the bottom.
The ford drain plugs have a magnet built into them and this black residue has seemed to accumulate on the magnet of the drain plug on every diff I have drained, (And I have drained a few). I call it the nasty black oxide that wears off of the ring gear and pinion. The black oxide finish on the gears I believe is from a process performed on the gears during manufacturing. Apparently Ford doesn't consider this as any problem.

The Black Oxide Finishing Process:
https://gearsolutions.com/features/black-oxide-finishing-for-gears/

I have been advising mustang owners to change the OEM diff fluid maybe at 5-10k miles, and I would definitely do it when the fluid is hot, to get all the residue out. If you have a traction-lok make sure you have the friction additive added back in, or make sure your fluid already has it.
For some additional info: I have removed my diff housing several times due to testing new gear ratios and newly designed rear covers so I have been able to inspect the fluid coming out every time. Also on the diffs that I have worked on such as bearing replacements, or new parts put in with polished ring & pinions, the fluid that I have drained out later is as clean as you could ever want.
IMG_0244-1600x1200.jpg

IMG_0243-1600x1200.jpg
 
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Rapid Red

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Did you read the post above mine?
Ok I see, reading post without seeing facial expression, misleads the reader .. Was to close to the display got gear contaminate in my eye :headbang:
 

gadgtfreek

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Pretty neat. I’ll have over 20k next time for the oil change. Having the 3.73 Torsen, if I get the Ford dealer to do the service I assume they would use the right fluid?

I did a gear swap in my GT350 at around 15,000 miles. I saved the factory fill OEM fluid in a clean gallon plastic jug. I believe this fluid stayed on the shelf about 6 months. (With plenty of time for contaminates to settle). Upon inspection I noticed some black residue had settled to the bottom of the jug.
Here in the second photo I turned the same jug on its side and you can see the residue stayed on the bottom.
The ford drain plugs have a magnet built into them and this black residue has seemed to accumulate on the magnet of the drain plug on every diff I have drained, (And I have drained a few). I call it the nasty black oxide that wears off of the ring gear and pinion. The black oxide finish on the gears I believe is from the heat-treat process performed on the gears during manufacturing.
I have been advising mustang owners to change the OEM diff fluid maybe at 5-10k miles, and I would definitely do it when the fluid is hot, to get all the residue out. If you have a traction-lok make sure you have the friction additive added back in, or make sure your fluid already has it.
For some additional info: I have removed my diff housing several times due to testing new gear ratios and newly designed rear covers so I have been able to inspect the fluid coming out every time. Also on the diffs that I have worked on such as bearing replacements, or new parts put in with polished ring & pinions, the fluid that I have drained out later is as clean as you could ever want.
IMG_0244-1600x1200.jpg

IMG_0243-1600x1200.jpg
 

Cory S

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Friction modifier isn't REQUIRED for proper operation. In SOME cases, slight chatter MAY be heard during slow speed cornering without the modifier. Older sensitive people driving stock cars are usually the only ones that filed complaints starting back around 1986.

Your Traction-Lok may perform better and last longer WITHOUT modifier.... FYI.
 

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Vlad Soare

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What does the friction modifier do? Does it increase the friction, in order to enhance the limited slip nature of the diff by making the plates grippier? Or does it decrease it, in order to extend the life of the plates by allowing them to slip easier?
 

Biggus Dickus

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I went with Redline 75-85 based upon recommendations of trusted forum members
 

Cory S

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What does the friction modifier do? Does it increase the friction, in order to enhance the limited slip nature of the diff by making the plates grippier? Or does it decrease it, in order to extend the life of the plates by allowing them to slip easier?
Its only purpose is to reduce possible chatter during slow speed turning. I haven’t used it in any of my 8.8/Super 8.8 swaps/fluid changes in 25 years. Never had chattering/noise and never had clutches wear/fail.
 

Skye

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What does the friction modifier do?
In general friction modifiers can change how slick or slippery the oil is, changing how parts engage one another.

https://www.twinoils.com/news/what-are-friction-modifiers/

Most applications do not involve friction modifiers. In-fact, use of friction modifiers can often result in a situation where things are "too slippery". For example, some Limited Slip Differentials start acting "weird" (the clutch assemblies stop making correct contact) if friction modifiers are used.

Follow the manufacturer's guide as to what to use. I use Redline in the Tacoma. Will most likely use Redline in Skye. It's a popular brand that works well.
 
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Vlad Soare

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Its only purpose is to reduce possible chatter during slow speed turning.
If I'm not mistaken, chatter during slow speed turning could arise if one wheel wanted to rotate faster than the differential allowed it to. In other words, if the diff weren't open enough. This means the friction modifier decreases friction between the plates. So if we don't add the friction modifier, then the diff will be a bit more slip-limited than usual, as if we increased the preload.
Is my reasoning correct?
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