As a shop owner with a similar machine(the BG version), it isn't as effective at getting every bit of the old coolant as you would hope(or they advertise). It will significantly dilute, but just not great for a color change unless you run a significant amount of coolant through it.
My Ford dealer stocks both. I typically only buy the concentrate.
Since draining the rad and lower hose seems to get about a gallon, just refilling the rad would give about a 30% anti-freeze mix. This appears to offer freeze protection down to -6degF, maybe not enough for colder regions (I usually run something less than 50/50 in my cars, but we don't even get freezing, much less below very often).
See my last step
On these cars, the thermostat is actually pretty easy to remove. Probably a 10 minute job, just a little messy.
Yeah. Having used several of these machines- Drain the coolant from the radiator first. Then remove the T-stat and cut the center out of it. re-install the gutted T-stat. Hook up the machine. Fill the expansion tank up. Run the machine. This way the car/engine doesn't have to be at operating temp to open the T-stat. Once the process is done, replace the gutted T-stat with a new one and seal. Fill and burp the system.
Finally followed-up on this link; pretty much explains it all. Bear with me--I'm a chemistry nerd--but the 'transition' appears to be from silicate-based to phosphate-based corrosion protection (and heat transfer); I'm going to assume all of them are still glycol-based for actual freeze protection (ethylene for 'typical,' propylene for 'organic,' i.e. 'dog-safe'). 'OAT' seems like a reversion; IIRC the corrosion protection in older formulas was partly oxalic acid (found in rhubarb).
Good info, thanks. What does burping entail; would it be necessary If I just drained the rad and topped-up?
Invest in a vacuum filler. There are reasonable priced options on Amazon. This will eliminate the need to burp and significantly reduce the chances of having a stubborn air pocket in the system.
When you open the system like I described, its really best to pull the system into a vacuum for the final fill. There is a lot of places for air to get trapped. The best you can do without a vacuum tool is to drive the front of the car up on ramps. This helps the air work its way to the front of the engine and radiator.
The worst part of doing this yourself is the mess, and disposal of the old coolant. Most parts stores do not offer coolant recycling/disposal. Another thing to note- don't get coolant on your serpentine belt. You can certainly do a drain and fill yourself, but a comprehensive flush and T-stat replacement may be something you want to pay a shop for.
Yeah, sounds like a 50/50 proposition. Probably comes down to bird-dogging a good shop and a reasonable price.
