Cold start oil consumption

[EFI]

I know that the previous oil change period I basically did what you are saying (start the car and drive off after 10 seconds) and I have seen very increased lead levels (went from 4 ppm to 37, thats 9 times).

Unless you can replicate the same exact conditions on both oil changes (same # of starts, same # of miles, same exact driving conditions, same exact weather conditions) you can't really compare findings between oil changes. Maybe you did more cold starts on one oil change, maybe you drove harder on one oil change, maybe the temps were lower on oil change. Way to many variables between 2 oil changes to say the cause of extra lead in the oil was from 1 single source.

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[JAJ]

Odd. . . this is what I see when viewing it directly from ford. No mention of cold weather.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...350-Supplement-version-1_sg_EN-US_12_2018.pdf

It's in the 2020 Owner's Supplement - same recommendation as the GT500:

Note the tiny type at the bottom of the upper page.

 

[UnhandledException]

It's in the 2020 Owner's Supplement - same recommendation as the GT500:

Note the tiny type at the bottom of the upper page.

I wish there was a way to know if this applies to 2017.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

Have you thought about adding a block heater?

 

[UnhandledException]

Have you thought about adding a block heater?

I cant find one that fits on this car

 

[Nfs1000f]

A way to reduce engine
wear on extremely cold starts is to have the engine turnover before firing up. The drawback to this is under very cold conditions your battery may not be strong enough to do this. My car takes three 5 second no starts without firing before the psi builds to 50 psi. I use this procedure after the car sits a long time and before the first start after winter storage.

 

[Andy13186]

I think I would use 0w40 oil in the winter if it gets relatively cold where you are, amsoil signature series or pennzoil ultra platinum. I also add ceratec

 

[Inthehighdesert]

That’s kind of surprising.

I cant find one that fits on this car

 

[dpAtlanta]

The 5.2 VooDoo will hold 28 quarts of oil until it starts to spill out of the valve cover.... just fill it up!
Oh sure, someone is going to say, but Dave, the windage tray would be submerged, it would not be effective! What do they know...!!!! Look at it this way... your bearings will be completely lubricated. Plus, with 28 quarts of oil in the block, think how long you can go between oil changes now.






Mechanical Advise Disclaimer
The above information has not been authenticated through SAE testing and analysis. Please consult with someone who has, at a minimum, a double digit I.Q. before adhering to any of the gibberish above.

 

[Zuess765]

OP, your not warming the car up enough. You should be at 100 degree oil temperature minimum and 150 degree cylinder temperature before driving,

 

[luc]

OP, your not warming the car up enough. You should be at 100 degree oil temperature minimum and 150 degree cylinder temperature before driving,

???????
Where do this nonsense come from ?
You can start driving a vehicle as soon that the engine is running…obviously full power should not be asked of the engine until it has reached normal operating temperature

 

[Nfs1000f]

OP, your not warming the car up enough. You should be at 100 degree oil temperature minimum and 150 degree cylinder temperature before driving,

I claim to be no expert. I have read numerous articles for and against warming the engine up. The argument against warming your car up seems to be more persuasive. When warming a cold car it will run rich which means more fuel in the cylinders. More fuel on the cylinders means the cylinder walls are being washed of the lubricant film which ultimately will cause wear over an extended period of time. Please chime in if I am incorrect.

 

[luc]

I claim to be no expert. I have read numerous articles for and against warming the engine up. The argument against warming your car up seems to be more persuasive. When warming a cold car it will run rich which means more fuel in the cylinders. More fuel on the cylinders means the cylinder walls are being washed of the lubricant film which ultimately will cause wear over an extended period of time. Please chime in if I am incorrect.

You are correct but there are also a couple more reasons: all drive train components, tranny, axles, etc, need to be warmed up and the only way to do it is by driving.

 

[galaxy]

OP, your not warming the car up enough. You should be at 100 degree oil temperature minimum and 150 degree cylinder temperature before driving,

Wrong.

 

[UnhandledException]

Just an update. I sent my oil sample to blackstone and have observed that lead levels went back down (8 ppm this time) but potentially due to my idling in the morning there is no trace level fuels in the oil and the oil flashpoint/viscosity have both gone down. I have now started to reduce the cold start wait period to only to wait for CHT to reach 70F and drive off keeping revs below 2000 rpm until CHT reaches 150F and oil reaches 100F. Let's see how the modified driving behavior helps/hurts the metals.

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