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Ah yes, thanks for the correction... the standard production GT350 color it is then for what I'd rather see over the red. :)

I get the exact opposite vibe... looks way more upscale the way it is without the "fangs" and much better/classier IMHO. Totally agree with you on this... they should've went with the GT350R caliper color, to keep it classically cool, instead of "look at me" red racer.

so this gt350 trickle down of the same magneride parts may make swapping the full 4pot brakes onto the rear much easier for folks...

that was my rough estimate as I didn't note an exact rpm from his post... if his cruising area of problem is down closer to 2000 I can see where that extra length works better. doing the actual math would be essential if the work was to be done, and whoever he takes it to could easily do a slip...

wheels look great! now get rid of those cheesy brake covers that do nothing but hold heat and dust to mess with your braking performance.

nice... someone was feeling like a nap on the line in that vid. :)

As I mentioned much earlier in the thread, this is a simple and cheap mod to do with the mustangs to fix your exhaust resonance issue... 2 straight 2" diameter 24-26" long pipes welded in like so will clean up that bothersome sound for you while still keeping a nice mustang growl. Most likely...

Have a 2" ID stainless 26" length and capped-end pipe, welded to each of the dual exhaust pipes. Have the holes cut and the pipes welded on to run right alongside each rear muffler, they will intersect straight in perpendicular in between those two bends before the mufflers. Nice clean install...

Until you take displacement down another .5 liter to a 4.5l or less you won't get rid of enough vibrating mass to not need a significant damper.

Toyota/Lexus are using a very tried and true Direct & Port combo since 2008. The Lexus RCF currently runs a DOHC 5.0 with 467 HP in a very similar engine layout to ford's coyote. Toyota's bread & butter 3.5 V6 gained 30HP and an MPG by adding direct to port injection. The Big T went this route...

Depends how wide you really need to go... but right now there aren't any spindle swap options regularly available. You could always go that route if you want to have a custom suspension/chassis shop build them out for you... seems like quite a high $$ venture if you aren't racing professionally...

with the current automobile's tendency towards under-steer folks should always put more priority on improving the rear bar over the front... David has a beautiful point there, no matter what vendor he represents. Hotchkis has been in the game a while and makes some nice stuff, if you like the...

This isn't that hard to get bud... spring height has nothing to do with strut to tire clearance. Go back and look at the suspension illustration, do what I said earlier in the thread in regards to actual mechanic work, and fix your tire clearance issues without need for spacers. Otherwise just...

as Terminator said, if you change anything at the spindle to strut connection points, via camber bolts, oval/slotting holes in the strut, whatever...then you can change tire to strut distance... changing camber via the top mounts does nothing for tire clearance.

awesome wheel setup!

You might find you need a 5mm spacer up front once you get them on there...

^exactly^

Nice setup... enough backpad that you didn't need spacers to clear front dust caps? Your poke is at the wheel, the slimmer 275 tire tread patch clears the fenders, so well done stance method there.

NICE!

Incorrect...doesn't matter what springs you have, that doesn't change the wheel to strut clearance on this type of front suspension. Digital_Syn's example is very valid to the topic if he's rolling the same wheels. If the wheels are the issue, it will rub on lowering springs AND if you swap back...