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Chasing False Knock

DarkSubRosa

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so basically ARH and Kooks don't have issue with bolt clearance?
ARH comes with a solution, whatever that bracket is or does. It sounds like Kooks was aware of it and bent the tubes in a manner that do not interfere. I'm a SW owner and I feel like that's part of what you get what you pay for type of thing. The SW are cheaper but you deal with some things like this.
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Choking_Victim

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ARH comes with a solution, whatever that bracket is or does. It sounds like Kooks was aware of it and bent the tubes in a manner that do not interfere. I'm a SW owner and I feel like that's part of what you get what you pay for type of thing. The SW are cheaper but you deal with some things like this.
Gotcha
 
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RubyRedBoost

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ARH comes with a solution, whatever that bracket is or does. It sounds like Kooks was aware of it and bent the tubes in a manner that do not interfere. I'm a SW owner and I feel like that's part of what you get what you pay for type of thing. The SW are cheaper but you deal with some things like this.
As I stated earlier the issue is SW is selling the same tubes as engineered for the 11-14s. They only checked fitment and made new mid pipes. That is the issue. This was confirmed by their general manager.
 

DarkSubRosa

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As I stated earlier the issue is SW is selling the same tubes as engineered for the 11-14s. They only checked fitment and made new mid pipes. That is the issue. This was confirmed by their general manager.
ah cool, I missed that. Just falls under the same thing though, instead of developing a brand new product and spending more money on R&D they are keeping costs down by just using the same stuff.
 

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Jeff's FRC

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Oh, glad I found this. I was about to buy Stainless power headers, crap! I don't want to deal with this stuff.
It's just a tiny little bracket that needs to be removed. Not a big deal if you do it while the stock manifolds are out.
 

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It's just a tiny little bracket that needs to be removed. Not a big deal if you do it while the stock manifolds are out.
Yea I still may do the SW, if I remove the bracket, not taking a chance on grinding it down and ending up with false knock. Ive just about ruled out the SP, Im afraid quality may be poor on them.
 

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Yea I still may do the SW, if I remove the bracket, not taking a chance on grinding it down and ending up with false knock. Ive just about ruled out the SP, Im afraid quality may be poor on them.
This little bracket is the only thing I've heard about being a problem with SW/SP headers. When talking quality headers, it's always Kooks, ARH, and SW that are talked about. Can't go wrong with any of them, but if you wanna save a few hundred and go with the SW/SP, you'll have to take an extra two minutes when you install to remove said bracket.
 

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If I install these headers and steeda engine mounts lowered 3/4 inch will it clear that? Or do I need to still reposition the bracket?
 

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mm2015

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Too bad I totally forgot about this post. Had my headers installed and forgot to bring it up to the guys who did the install, now I am having a similar issue with the Pypes headers. Getting a pretty noisy vibration from the contact at about 4-5k RPMS. The clearance between the mid and the bolt is roughly a 1/4". Going to be fun getting that little guy cut/removed with the headers on!
 
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RubyRedBoost

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Too bad I totally forgot about this post. Had my headers installed and forgot to bring it up to the guys who did the install, now I am having a similar issue with the Pypes headers. Getting a pretty noisy vibration from the contact at about 4-5k RPMS. The clearance between the mid and the bolt is roughly a 1/4". Going to be fun getting that little guy cut/removed with the headers on!
Yeah I had to use a sawzall on my bracket. It wasn't ideal but it went smoothly enough. A small pipe saw for plumbing works but it will take awhile and is a knuckle buster. It will definitely remedy any knock issues you are having. Unless your 93 is garbage like mine was. This new Flexfuel tune is the shit though.
 

mm2015

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Yeah I had to use a sawzall on my bracket. It wasn't ideal but it went smoothly enough. A small pipe saw for plumbing works but it will take awhile and is a knuckle buster. It will definitely remedy any knock issues you are having. Unless your 93 is garbage like mine was. This new Flexfuel tune is the shit though.
Cool, will have to try tomorrow maybe. That rattle drives me insane, I wonder if that could cause the low numbers I put on the dyno with my current mods (405). And for gas I typically try to stay with Shell only. I do fill up at an HEB shopping center occasionally, I'm not sure how their quality is though.
 
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RubyRedBoost

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Lund Sr and Greg both stated that once knock retard is present it will not add timing. That will greatly hurt your numbers. So as I was still experiencing 1.7-3 after fixing the headers it was due to the fuel from Quicktrip. I swapped to strictly Chevron and that was the end of my issues. I did purchase a catch can during all the diagnostics of my knock. It definitely helped. The amount of oil I collect is absurd.
 

mm2015

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Lund Sr and Greg both stated that once knock retard is present it will not add timing. That will greatly hurt your numbers. So as I was still experiencing 1.7-3 after fixing the headers it was due to the fuel from Quicktrip. I swapped to strictly Chevron and that was the end of my issues. I did purchase a catch can during all the diagnostics of my knock. It definitely helped. The amount of oil I collect is absurd.
Have you been adding oil based on how much you've taken out? I put my JLT separator on the other week, will be checking that as well.
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