630 is probably the standard 8.5# pulley. You can definitely make much more, it just needs a smaller pulley, and possible fuel upgrades and or E85 depending on how much you want to make.Schmecky, 630whp would be well below where I want to be. I live in PA so I dont have to worry about carb stuff thankfully. Can you make more than 630 on that setup? Was it tuned specifically to only make that?
If you just want to make 750RW, you don't need E85 or a fuel system. Any more and you will. (on either system) It's the fuel that's limiting either setup to around 750WHP. BTW, ordering a smaller pulley doesn't cost more. just tell them what size or boost level you want. You seem hellbent to think you are getting more with the whipple. You aren't.So in comparison, just the base stage 2 procharger kit with a p1x head unit should put me at 630whp. If I want 750whp I'd need to pulley down and run e85, return system, etc?
With the whipple stage 2 kit I can make 725-750whp on pump gas on stock pulley.
So the procharger in turn might actually cost more $$ and take more mods to make the same hp as the whipple kit is that right?
This is generally true, just physics. There are limits of each type supercharger, but there are different sizes with each type. Bigger ones make more power, and are more efficient in terms of heat generation. Supercharger, pulley to the psi that makes the HP you want. Buy a supercharger that makes power in the band you want, and you'll get similar results. Every type has it's own pluses and minuses as you have seen in the threads. But generating x-HP with a supercharger will have similar fuel requirements and heat generation across the types. Sure the way the power comes on will be a little different, but the 750 HP limit is the same across the types, as this is a limit of the motor with pump gas. Want more requires race gas or e85. More fuel will require bigger pumps and injectors regardless of type. End of the day, best thing to do is figure out your end game of HP and your goals and then pick a system that works for you. There are centri, turbos, and PD that will all make way more power than you'll ever want. I went centri as it seems to be easiest to install, didn't care about a warranty, I street drive mainly (some say centri makes less heat so I needed something that I could drive without worries about heat), I wanted the FI that the power came on the softest (figured easier on parts and easier to not blow tires away; this is a bit subjective), Paxton was cheaper than prochager (just a little), one thing I did wrong was size the blower. I should have gotten the JTB to start, as I am moving up now. JTB would have worked well at lower power levels and have way more room to grow.I don't disagree with you. I am new to this platform, as well as superchargers in general. I have a goal in mind, and from the info I had I arrived at the conclusion that making 750 was going to be much easier with a PD. Now I'm learning more and more from you guys which will help me make a decision as it sounds that it's more Apples-to-apples than I originally thought.
Tuner kits you need to provide your own fueling / tuning. the difference between the stage 2 and the HO kit is a dedicated belt setup and larger intercooler if I remember correctly.Also on beefcakes website what is the difference between the stage 2 kit for $8k and the tuner kit for $7200? I've read through both descriptions but it only talks about the HO kit.
Pulley on crank. This is why some people say the prochager is more likely to snap the crank, more moment arm. However, it seems there is no rhyme or reason as to why cranks snap (it happens with all supercharger types, turbos, and NA).So with it being an 8 rib I imagine it would replace the other pulleys? Or would it have a second pulley on the crank that would only drive the procharger?
Basically, the tuner kit comes without a tune. I already had a tuner (N gauge) so I opted for the tuner kit, as I didn't need 2 devices. Then I had Lund create a new tune for the device I already had.Also on beefcakes website what is the difference between the stage 2 kit for $8k and the tuner kit for $7200? I've read through both descriptions but it only talks about the HO kit.
The OPG/CS upgrade is definitely a good idea for high HP / higher revving builds and just an overall good preventive measure. cant say it would help with a crank snapping issue, but definitely a weak point.Lund and the nGauge don't work for the 2021 MY correct? I'll be upgrading the OPGs and crank sprocket, will that help with that issue?
I also was just reading and the procharger kits all say 50% hp increase which would only be an extra 230hp, but can do more with modified motors... to my understanding our stock blocks can easily handle up to 1000hp or is this bad info?