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Car won't start

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David Schmidt

David Schmidt

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Ok, charged the battery to 100%, took it to the auto parts store to test and they say it's putting out 520 of 560 CCAs. Tried the WOT+clutch start cycle (also in the manual for non-start situations) and no dice. Starter just spins and spins.

I do have the fuel control module coming yet (it was only $25, what the heck) and will try that before pleading uncle. Dealer appointment is in 5 days and counting... really hoping to avoid that.
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Since the starter motor is working, I doubt it has anything to do with the brake and/or clutch switches. When the bumper pads fall off, the starter will not function at all....
what happened with mine was the starter would spin and engine never fire. What I discovered was the clutch switch on the back of the clutch created a circuit to allow the car to start. My switch was faulty so the circuit was not completed. You can pull the plunger portion out and that can kinda reset things. But I ultimately pulled it apart and created a better connection. Or you can swap it for like $25
 
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Thanks, I'll contort under there and take a look. I noticed my clutch pedal has started squeaking just a little bit... I'm sure things are wearing down. Would be good to know what to short in order to defeat that particular switch...
 
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Fuel control module came today - no change. I now have an extra FR3A 9D370 AA should anyone have a need. :cool:
 

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Thanks, I'll contort under there and take a look. I noticed my clutch pedal has started squeaking just a little bit... I'm sure things are wearing down. Would be good to know what to short in order to defeat that particular switch...
if you unplug the switch and open it up its pretty self explanatory. basically when you press the clutch pedal its pushes the plunger down and that pushes a metal piece inside down to create a completed circuit and then the starter can actually get the motor to fire. my switch went bad cause the connection was no longer solid inside the switch. you can bend the metal tabs inside for better contact like i did or just replace the switch for like $25
 

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David Schmidt

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basically when you press the clutch pedal its pushes the plunger down and that pushes a metal piece inside down to create a completed circuit and then the starter can actually get the motor to fire.
I was under there the other night and I heard the fuel pump fire when I pushed the clutch pedal (top of stroke). And I'm pretty sure the starter won't spin until I hit the other switch at the bottom of stroke.

Wouldn't it be funny if all this time I'm chasing fuel and it's really spark... :curse: It's probably time I go out there and yank a plug wire.
 

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You can’t chase for what you don’t know you don’t have. You need to look for what it is you don’t have and then figure out why you don’t have it.
 
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Turns out the harness was gnawed at after all... just in a place I couldn't see/get to. Will be picking up some mouse traps on the way home.
 

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Turns out the harness was gnawed at after all... just in a place I couldn't see/get to. Will be picking up some mouse traps on the way home.
Is your car parked inside a garage or outside? If inside or under some sort of cover then leave your hood open. This was happening to my brother. His truck, tractor, mower was getting rats & mice. He put traps, poison & they never stopped them completely. But he was told to leave the hoods open on everything & then no more problems.
 
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Is your car parked inside a garage or outside?
Outside... so leaving the hood open is not so exciting. We do have a bird feeder very nearby that has the mouse fuel in it... clearly they have been grabbing that and hiding in the car. I've always parked my car in that spot without trouble for 20 years or so, but the bird feeder is relatively new. I think that will get relocated as well.
 

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Turns out the harness was gnawed at after all... just in a place I couldn't see/get to. Will be picking up some mouse traps on the way home.
Where did you eventually find the damage, can you post any pics or exacting area that will help others in the future?

Was the damage concealed behind the black conduit for the actual wires?
 
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I had to punt and tow the car to the dealership for work, so I don't have any pictures. I wasn't able to see the damage myself, despite taking the engine shroud off and looking as well as I could from the top (recall I couldn't jack the car up where it stood). The tech said it was near the firewall on the engine side, and there were several wires severed and more with damage to the insulation. The repair was replacement of the damaged wires and re-taping the harness.

[Edit: they quoted me $7,500 to replace the harness or $750 to repair the wires. I think the harness quote was just to soften the blow for the repair. :like:]
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