Car is dead - Need help

[pilotgore]

I forget the battery type, but yes, you can buy a battery anywhere.

I used to get those error codes at the track at Daytona. The banks would cause all those issues.... dont ask me why. My point is that without a mechanical problem, those errors will go away after driving. Yours have not.

I think you have been given some good advice here. Either way, it's time for a new battery anyway.

Can I assume our stock battery isn’t AGM? Maybe as you hit the banks at Daytona the plates shifted in the battery causing a low amp/volt situation which messed with the electronics. When off the banks they straightened back out and the problem went away.

I’m not an electrical engineer though. . . Maybe someone smarter than me can take a guess.

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[Tomster]

I think Matt needs a new battery.

 

[DCShelby]

At least on a Mustang all the bits are up front. In my 2008 911 I had to have the battery cable to starter cables replaced, the part was 127 dollars....the labor was 1200......since it was two connected by cables snaking from the front where the battery is to the engine in the rear. And they have a negative to chassis bolt that is known to corrode and it’s tucked up and under the front firewall. Both of these things can make you use nasty words.

 

[UnhandledException]

Thanks everyone. I found a dealer who agreed to look at the car today but no loaner. I drove it about 6-7 miles with no power steering, hill assist, ABS, or stability control and I appreciate how amazing the technology is today after a 30 minute battle with 305 section front tires. Its not fun. And not to be bragging about it but I m a pretty good person body wise, I lift weights 4 days a week regularly. And that steering wheel destroyed my arms and shoulders.

 

[Tomster]

Lol, why didnt you just go buy a battery?

 

[UnhandledException]

Lol, why didnt you just go buy a battery?

Because the closest auto parts store to me is 40 minutes or so away in city/highway traffic.

I also have a feeling something may have fried somewhere and I didnt want Ford to deny warranty for me taking the issue in my own hands.

I tested the battery with multimeter and it never shows below 12.59 and mostly over 13 (when car is not running and battery is fully disconnected from car). Alternator reads 14.4V constantly. Fuses are good. One or more of those modules may have gone bad or they could be a legitimate problem with rear diff or sensors.

 

[Tomster]

Unless you bought an extended warranty, your 3/36 is done. Edited to add: I see you have a 2017. When did you buy it?

Simply testing voltage of your battery does not indicate health. You have to test it under load.

40 mins from an auto parts store? Best of luck with it Grizzly Adams. I'll be waiting for the update.

 

[UnhandledException]

Unless you bought an extended warranty, your 3/36 is done. Edited to add: I see you have a 2017. When did you buy it?

Simply testing voltage of your battery does not indicate health. You have to test it under load.

40 mins from an auto parts store? Best of luck with it Grizzly Adams. I'll be waiting for the update.

Lol. Thank you

I also honestly dont want to take chances with this stupid virus chaos thats about to hit. I have a young one and I need a car. If its just battery and they try to charge me too much, I ll drive it and do it myself.

 

[pilotgore]

Lol. Thank you

I also honestly dont want to take chances with this stupid virus chaos thats about to hit. I have a young one and I need a car. If its just battery and they try to charge me too much, I ll drive it and do it myself.

Time to get rid of the gym membership!

Definitely keep us posted. Hopefully they don't go too crazy with the diagnostic fee. . .

 

[Tank]

@UnhandledException , are you at the dealer waiting while they check it out?

Could you let is know what they’re asking for the OEM BXT-99RT4-A battery?

Edit: Just googled it, apparently it’s been discontinued..

 

[UnhandledException]

@UnhandledException , are you at the dealer waiting while they check it out?

Could you let is know what they’re asking for the OEM BXT-99RT4-A battery?

yes i am.

yes I will let you know. I already found a battery at another dealer that has higher crank amps for $139.

 

[WildHorse]

Well If the LIN fails or the alternator cannot generate the sufficient charge rate within the specified time you will get a dtc ,usually a u code depicting lost comms with the alternator.

 

[UnhandledException]

Well If the LIN fails or the alternator cannot generate the sufficient charge rate within the specified time you will get a dtc ,usually a u code depicting lost comms with the alternator.

What is LIN?

 

[WildHorse]

What is LIN?

The communication line between the alternator and pcm.

 

[UnhandledException]

The communication line between the alternator and pcm.

maybe alternator died.

Car does have almost 57,000 miles and 60-70% of those miles are city and by city i dont mean 50 mph two lane road but 35 single lane

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