Car is dead - Need help

[UnhandledException]

If it’s running and battery is charging the electric power steering should be fine but it’s obviously not. Have you checked for any blown fuses?

No. How do I do that?

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[WildHorse]

What happened that you had to leave the car on the side of the road? Your codes mean there's a failure to communicate between various sensors. Also, stupid question, but you didn't leave the ignition on when you left it did you?

 

[svassh]

No. How do I do that?

Not sure where they are but look in your owners manual. Likely fuse box is in the engine bay and owners manual or fuse box cover will list purpose of each fuse. Pull the fuse, hold it up to the light, if there is a break in it, replace it.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

If you have a cheap 12 volt tester, or multimeter, you can check the fuses by touches both sides on the top of the fuse. Or you can just pull each one out and physically check it.

 

[UnhandledException]

I have a multimeter. I will check.

Car was parked by my wife for a playdate visit to a neighbor’s house. She had the hazards on because it was parallel parked on a busy road by sidewalk. The hazards drained the battery somehow.

 

[UnhandledException]

I checked fuse 64, assuming thats the steering fuse, it looks fine. Multimeter also gives the correct value. Can it be a different fuse?

 

[WildHorse]

You can check #22

 

[CoolHandLuke]

Any type of voltage irregularity will create issues that you are describing. I’d buy a new battery and install it. If that doesn’t work, you’re at the mercy of the dealership anyway. Probably the alternator. Pony up and get a rental car and drop the car off in the service department for diagnosis. With your current mileage, unless you have an extended warranty, you won’t qualify for a loaner anyway.

 

[wproctor411]

Did you check the fuses to the PS system? All bad battery can definitely create some funky scenarios

 

[pilotgore]

Any type of voltage irregularity will create issues that you are describing. I’d buy a new battery and install it. If that doesn’t work, you’re at the mercy of the dealership anyway. Probably the alternator. Pony up and get a rental car and drop the car off in the service department for diagnosis. With your current mileage, unless you have an extended warranty, you won’t qualify for a loaner anyway.

+1 on getting the battery checked/replaced. Most auto parts stores will test your battery for free. As a daily driver, I’m guessing you’ve gone through a lot of thermal cycles with that battery, which will reduce the capacity.

My ‘16 explorer sport started intermittently displaying error messages prior to battery failure (most prominently advance track and abs fault codes every time at startup and while driving.). I put a good CTEK battery tender on the car every night for a week, and even tried a battery refurb through the tender but still got the error codes. Then one morning I could hear the engine cranking slowly during first start of the day and I was convinced it was a battery issue. So... I replaced my battery with the car having ~50k miles and only being 3 years old. Completely solved all my issues.

Cars do weird things when they don’t sense a correct stable voltage coming from the battery, especially European models.
Best of luck.

 

[FDHog]

I meant connecting the 2 cables while disconnected from the battery. This happened in my F150. I lost Nav, ABS light came on, check engine light, etc.
Look up CanBus reset if you don't trust me. By connecting both disconnected cables together, you're completely draining the system. Worked for me.

Canbus Reset



How to perform a can-bus reset:

• Remove positive and negative cables from the vehicles battery.
• Touch and hold the cables together for a 5-10 seconds
• (if you have a diesel, disconnect both batteries, then do one battery at a time then go to next step)
• Let the vehicle sit for 10 minutes.
• Reconnect terminals
• With all doors closed, lock the vehicle and let it sit for 15 minutes.
• After the 15 minutes unlock the vehicle, and start vehicle with the door open, test radio.

 

[SVTinAR]

My car has started sluggishly the last couple of weeks. Finally pulled the cover and battery cell caps yesterday and all six cells were low so filled them up to proper level with distilled water. Damn maintenance free battery's all use up the electrolyte in my experience as I periodically have to do this to all of them. Hope to get another 6 months of so out of it but maybe not.

 

[UnhandledException]

I checked fuse 22 as well, ohms read 0 on my multimeter so its good.

i m doing canbus reset procedure now.

When buying a new battery, how do you find tge right one? The one I have is BXT-99RT4. Do I go to ford or autozone? Any specific things to check?

 

[Tomster]

I forget the battery type, but yes, you can buy a battery anywhere.

I used to get those error codes at the track at Daytona. The banks would cause all those issues.... dont ask me why. My point is that without a mechanical problem, those errors will go away after driving. Yours have not.

I think you have been given some good advice here. Either way, it's time for a new battery anyway.

 

[pilotgore]

I checked fuse 22 as well, ohms read 0 on my multimeter so its good.

i m doing canbus reset procedure now.

When buying a new battery, how do you find tge right one? The one I have is BXT-99RT4. Do I go to ford or autozone? Any specific things to check?

Totally up to you. Autozone can do the capacity check for free, and they’ll sell you the battery.

I bought my recent battery from ford, which was on sale and had a ~7 year free replacement warranty. Any auto parts store will be able to tell you which battery you need.

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