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Bumper Gap Fixed

galaxy

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So I fixed my bumper gap today using the method shown in the pictures. Just wanted to share a couple thoughts. First and foremost, it works like a champ. I think it's a little bit of a cheezy way to have to fix this issue, but as mentioned, it works, I did it myself, and the TSB is a 50/50 shot from what I've seen. Plus the #1 point, I'm avoiding the dealer screwing with my car. Some things to share and pass along for anyone that cares...

- My first intention was to take the bumper skin all the way off and check all the screws on those mounting assemblies. Once the tail lights were out, you can get to two of the screws on each side. They were tight on both sides of mine. After removing one of the fender liners to inspect what little you can see, and considering all of my mounting assemblies (the black pieces under the skin) seemed to be rock solid, I decided not to. Was mainly going to do that only to check screws anyways based on some previous reports, but mine seemed solid and didn't seem like much to be gained. So I didn't.

- Like most of us, the gap increasing over time certainly appears to be an issue with an increasing play in the skin instead of something underneath actually loosening or backing off, or thus appeared to be the case with mine.

- With the lights out and room to fidget with stuff, it also appeared my gap was at a point where I honestly don't think it would have progressed any further. But, got the screws and I'm in here, so...

- Since it's just the weight of the skin and not much of a support function, i think these screws will hold fairly well. But only time and driving will truly tell.

- When drilling a pilot hole and putting the screws in, I went in at an angle such that when the head of the screw started to tighten, it would pull the skin in the appropriate direction.

- I put lock-tite on the screws. Don't know if that'll make a darn bit of difference on the plastic, but I did it anyways.

*** - On the rear fender liners, there's various different types of plastic fasteners used to secure the liner. Six of them are a nut/cap type thing that goes over a threaded stud. CHECK THESE. Even if you're not working on anything I suggest checking them. All of mine (all 12) were so loose, I'm surprised any of them are still on the car.
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Wriggly

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Thanks for posting about the liner nuts. Checked mine and all were quite loose.
 

kommons

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That's a GT350? I'm surprised you have sound insulation on the trunk panels? Only the Rs have nothing?
 
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galaxy

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That's a GT350? I'm surprised you have sound insulation on the trunk panels? Only the Rs have nothing?
?? Not sure what you're looking at. yes, it's a 350. It is not an R.
 

Niz55

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those linear nuts always come loose. I would say every 1000 miles or so they come loose.
 

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kommons

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?? Not sure what you're looking at. yes, it's a 350. It is not an R.
I was looking at the white foam through the tailight holes. The R doesn't have it. TBH, I miss some of that insulation.
 
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galaxy

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Aaahhhh. I didn't even see that. That's why I was like "what the heck are you talking about?" LOL.
 

Niz55

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White foam piece is part of the carpeting in the trunck. Is attached behind the grey carpeting. It is a noise/heat insulation.
 

NDALLAS40

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So I fixed my bumper gap today using the method shown in the pictures. Just wanted to share a couple thoughts. First and foremost, it works like a champ. I think it's a little bit of a cheezy way to have to fix this issue, but as mentioned, it works, I did it myself, and the TSB is a 50/50 shot from what I've seen. Plus the #1 point, I'm avoiding the dealer screwing with my car. Some things to share and pass along for anyone that cares...

- My first intention was to take the bumper skin all the way off and check all the screws on those mounting assemblies. Once the tail lights were out, you can get to two of the screws on each side. They were tight on both sides of mine. After removing one of the fender liners to inspect what little you can see, and considering all of my mounting assemblies (the black pieces under the skin) seemed to be rock solid, I decided not to. Was mainly going to do that only to check screws anyways based on some previous reports, but mine seemed solid and didn't seem like much to be gained. So I didn't.

- Like most of us, the gap increasing over time certainly appears to be an issue with an increasing play in the skin instead of something underneath actually loosening or backing off, or thus appeared to be the case with mine.

- With the lights out and room to fidget with stuff, it also appeared my gap was at a point where I honestly don't think it would have progressed any further. But, got the screws and I'm in here, so...

- Since it's just the weight of the skin and not much of a support function, i think these screws will hold fairly well. But only time and driving will truly tell.

- When drilling a pilot hole and putting the screws in, I went in at an angle such that when the head of the screw started to tighten, it would pull the skin in the appropriate direction.

- I put lock-tite on the screws. Don't know if that'll make a darn bit of difference on the plastic, but I did it anyways.

*** - On the rear fender liners, there's various different types of plastic fasteners used to secure the liner. Six of them are a nut/cap type thing that goes over a threaded stud. CHECK THESE. Even if you're not working on anything I suggest checking them. All of mine (all 12) were so loose, I'm surprised any of them are still on the car.
IMG_0522.jpg
IMG_0523.jpg
IMG_0524.jpg
Good work Galaxy. I let a local dealer have a go at my car's gaps way before the TSB was out. It was back in June '17 and it had to get approval from the factory with supporting pictures for them to even try it. They let me watch the entire 3 hours while they replaced all of the mounting brackets. Waste of time. And Ford's money. Now at least I know it can be fixed, but I doubt they would let me in the shop again. So I'm going to give it go next week. On a black car, panel gaps jump right out at you. Even from a distance. Thanks for the post.
 

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galaxy

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Thanks man. Good luck and absolutely give this a shot. One thing about this repair, you've got absolutely NOTHING to lose. It is an extremely unobtrusive repair job, completely invisible, and completely reversible. I don't think any of us have any long term reports on this repair, but if it doesn't stand the test of time, it certainly doesn't hurt anything. Pull the screws out and you've got 3-4 tiny little holes that are still completely hidden.
 

S550VIN54

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So I fixed my bumper gap today using the method shown in the pictures. Just wanted to share a couple thoughts. First and foremost, it works like a champ. I think it's a little bit of a cheezy way to have to fix this issue, but as mentioned, it works, I did it myself, and the TSB is a 50/50 shot from what I've seen. Plus the #1 point, I'm avoiding the dealer screwing with my car. Some things to share and pass along for anyone that cares...

- My first intention was to take the bumper skin all the way off and check all the screws on those mounting assemblies. Once the tail lights were out, you can get to two of the screws on each side. They were tight on both sides of mine. After removing one of the fender liners to inspect what little you can see, and considering all of my mounting assemblies (the black pieces under the skin) seemed to be rock solid, I decided not to. Was mainly going to do that only to check screws anyways based on some previous reports, but mine seemed solid and didn't seem like much to be gained. So I didn't.

- Like most of us, the gap increasing over time certainly appears to be an issue with an increasing play in the skin instead of something underneath actually loosening or backing off, or thus appeared to be the case with mine.

- With the lights out and room to fidget with stuff, it also appeared my gap was at a point where I honestly don't think it would have progressed any further. But, got the screws and I'm in here, so...

- Since it's just the weight of the skin and not much of a support function, i think these screws will hold fairly well. But only time and driving will truly tell.

- When drilling a pilot hole and putting the screws in, I went in at an angle such that when the head of the screw started to tighten, it would pull the skin in the appropriate direction.

- I put lock-tite on the screws. Don't know if that'll make a darn bit of difference on the plastic, but I did it anyways.

*** - On the rear fender liners, there's various different types of plastic fasteners used to secure the liner. Six of them are a nut/cap type thing that goes over a threaded stud. CHECK THESE. Even if you're not working on anything I suggest checking them. All of mine (all 12) were so loose, I'm surprised any of them are still on the car.
IMG_0522.jpg
IMG_0523.jpg
IMG_0524.jpg
What size screws did you use and where did you get them?
 

zzrat

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galaxy, While doing a search for the rear bumper sag came across your thread. I'm at the point to install the Ford Performance rear tow hook & the bumper needs pulled. Was thinking now is the time to address & head off the sag problem. What can you pass along since the fix that you performed back in 8/18? Good, Bad, Ugly? Thanks


Anyone with info & durability on the Ford TSB fix would be great info! Was thinking of just purchasing the TSB & installing myself while the car is apart. TIA !
 

MNGT350

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did this just like galaxy laid out. (only did one screw on the upper sides, instead of two, however).

super easy, took 45 min. Worked really well, gap gone. Will see how it goes over time.
 
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galaxy

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Since @MNGT350 brought this back up, I have ~6,500 miles on this mod and my bumper hasn’t so much as budged. So far so good.
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