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Bullitt single horn - FIXED!

aileron

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Got one on order! If anybody knows how to do the 'remove airbox' route please chime in; it looks like it might be easier to go in from underneath.
I worked too hard to do it from the top, if you can get it on a lift from the bottom it should be easy. If not, airbox removal doesn't look too hard, but you certainly don't need to remove the throttle body!
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CAL Captain

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My dealer charged me .5 hours to add the whole new dual horn assembly.
 

BrettT

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My dealer charged me .5 hours to add the whole new dual horn assembly.
Definitely worth the (no) hassle. I am getting mine replaced when I take it in for its first service, probably April.
 
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CAL Captain

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Bullitt0819

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Yeah, but I took my car back to the dealer for the 'horn swap' and he kept it most of the day. And, worst of all, they just swapped-in another 'one nut' horn. Time to DIY.
 

Stangnut

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I tried to replace mine myself. Getting the air box off was easy enough and even getting the horn disconnected and removed wasn't too bad. Putting the new horns in was impossible for me. My best friend has worked on small engines all his life and it took him all of 20 seconds to install the new horns for me.

If you're good with tiny fasteners in tight spaces (long fingers help) it shouldn't be a problem.
 

Stangnut

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Got one on order! If anybody knows how to do the 'remove airbox' route please chime in; it looks like it might be easier to go in from underneath.
Here are a few pics I took when taking out my air box.

Remove 5 screws. There are connectors on top of them holding wires in place. See next pic.
You might have to loosen the band clamp at the throttle body to rotate the air inlet tube up enough to get the filter out.
20181215_142231b2.jpg


20181215_142225b.jpg


20181215_142801b.jpg

20181215_142811b.jpg
 

Bullitt0819

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Awesome! Just what I need. So: 1) the box needs to rotate up, and 2) the filter has to come out?

Thank you.

Bob
 

Stangnut

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The box needs to be removed. The hose/tube going into the box may need to be rotated up. The filter has to come out to get the box out.
 

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Stangnut

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The forum is turning this pic upside down for some reason. I'll fix it if someone will tell me how.
20181215_143419b.jpg
 
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Bullitt0819

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Once all the fasteners are out, you will have to "squeeze" the airbox out.
No kidding! Plenty of bad words required ;)

Got my '18 non-castrated horn(s) yesterday--yep, the PO delivered on a holiday!--and got her in today; what a difference! This one will let the pedestrians know they need to get out of my way!

First went in from underneath; theoretically this can be done (lots of screws and push pins to remove the shield). Then, realized I didn't know exactly how to install the new--the bracket has a 'hook' on it--and wanted to be sure so pulled the CAB. Couple of things:

1) someone suggested just adding the second note to the existing bracket; I don't think this is possible because the one-note horn's electrical connector doesn't have connectors for the second horn, and the dual-horn replacement has molded connections so you'd have to cut/splice the wires (NFG)

2) the CAB is indeed a beyatch to get out but, oddly, not too bad going back in. The box is connected to a vent in the grille by a rubber sleeve; make sure this gets re-fitted over the vent in the grill else you could be sucking in some hot engine bay air (thanks to StangNut abd el-guapin and others for the advice)

3) I'd had the dealer replace the defective horn; of course, they replaced with another defective one (kept my car for the better part of a day). Don't know if they went in from underneath or on top (probably), but when they put the air filter back on they didn't properly fit it over the cold air tube to the throttle body (could possibly have been done at the factory). It has a foam sleeve and it appears they just crammed it on the tube but part of it was scrunched/folded over. Grrrrrrr ....

Anyway, IIRC there's 8 push-pins and about a dozen screws that hold the bottom shield on. The screws take a 7mm socket. I didn't attempt it but it looks like it might be possible to take the grey part of the splitter off. I kept scraping the underside of my valence on my '08 Bullitt; if the lower part of the splitter is replaceable that may come in handy someday (but, I'm probably the only Mustang owner that pulls just a little too far forward so my tail don't get smashed ;).

Job took me nearly 2 hours but could do it faster next time. If you've got a dealer you trust who'll do it for $50 it's probably worth it (but check their work).

Bob
 
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S550VIN54

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Finally got around to adding the 2nd horn which wasn't too bad after removing the throttle body which I found so much easier and less stress on the hose so my hats off to those that could do it. Anyway, I have a couple of questions regarding the factory install of the airbox itself and the gasket that sits on top of the airbox that seat against the hood when it is closed.

1) There is a piece of foam in one of the photos that were not fitting correctly inside the airbox and I was able to adjust but still doesn't look perfect (OCD on my part). Does anyone have any idea what that p/n may be? Mine was torn during the assembly it looks like.
InkedBullitt_1 airbox_LI.jpg
InkedBullitt_2 airbox_LI.jpg
The parts guys at Ford said it doesn't show on the diagram. Not sure why this isn't a solid piece anyway.

2) The silver sleeve that fits into the fender where the gasket sits has a little nipple that rides on top of it doesn't seem to line up too well but I am sure that it is making good contact once the hood is closed. I wished I paid better attention before removing it that way I would have known that it was there the whole time. Funny thing I tried to adjust it but didn't seem to matter

Is everyone seeing the same thing? I will try to go by Ford and look at 2 Bullitts that are in the showroom and compare.

BTW... the horn works great!
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