Bullitt shift knob install issue

[Rapid Red]

Here is mine. Stock shifter, stock collar, Bullitt knob

Now that looks good, clean, tight fit. Tranision from stick to knob smooth. The assembly looks stout, & functional, much better than the after market ones shown.

Nothing against after market parts providing they improve what has been replaced.

Maybe some need to leave their balls alone LMAO

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[Vlad Soare]

From the LMR website:
Fitment Note
After installation, there will be a slight gap between the lockout collar and the shift knob. This is completely normal.

I don't agree with their wording. It may be designed like this, it may be expected, but it is definitely not normal. It's just sloppy design and/or manufacturing.

 

[poncho@home]

Now that looks good, clean, tight fit. Tranision from stick to knob smooth. The assembly looks stout, & functional, much better than the after market ones shown.

Nothing against after market parts providing they improve what has been replaced.

Maybe some need to leave their balls alone LMAO

Thanks and I agree. Whenever possible when I am upgrading my cars I look for factory options to use. Thankfully Ford put a great white knob in the Bullitt and I was lucky enough to have someone send it to me for free! It looks and feels perfect especially paired with the GT350 steering wheel I installed recently.

 

[FalconRR]

Sound Wave, My issue is similar to the OP. I have a gap but the knob does not thread on easy like the factory one did coming off.

I cant turn it any tighter and i still have enough travel for the reverse lockout.

I have only had the factory knob on and never had loctite nor do I need loctite.

 

[Rapid Red]

Looking at the pictures, and comparing after market and OEM. The OEM looks like the bottom of the knob is and I suspect it is. Milled out or drilled to a larger size. Allow the ball to sit further down on the stick. And have a clearance so as the collar can freely move up and into the base of the knob.

By chance is the after market smaller in diameter, could be the reason. If the 2 are the same size. Someone could send both knobs to a machine shop. Have them match the OEM threaded hole with the after market, With a relief cut for the collar.


@poncho
Exactly shooting for a factory look installing any upgrade is the look to go for.

 

[Elp_jc]

Definitely something not right there. Here is the Bullitt shifter in a Bullitt for reference.

If you're still around, is that the way it came from the factory??? My Bullitt's knob sits EXACTLY like the OP's photo on post #1. And the Bullitt I first test drove had the ball stolen, and I installed a new one as tight as it'd go, and also had that gap. I'm afraid to even try to get mine to sit lower, since we'd probably damage/ruin the shifter before cross-threading that heavy ball. And I don't want to drill it inside either. The only thing we could try to do is to try a tap and see if it goes any deeper, in case the threads are not all the way to the end of the hole. As anybody checked that?

I'd definitely like to sit mine lower, even if the gap is not totally removed. And that photo from Brett on post #11 makes me hopeful there's a cure for the gap .

 

[Dadillac]

OP here. I solved my issue by installing a Raceseng reverse lockout and a Raceseng Slammer shift ball. Everything is good in Gotham

Don

 

[WD Pro]

My dealer has a 19 Bullitt in, the lift up collar is sitting within the knob recess with no gap or step

WD

 

[cactus_kid]

Strange things can happen when ya try to inter breed shift knobs ........... Jus say'n ....................

 

[poncho@home]

I remember using a tap to clean the threads on my take ogg Bullitt knob before being able to install smoothly

 

[BrettT]

If you're still around, is that the way it came from the factory??? My Bullitt's knob sits EXACTLY like the OP's photo on post #1. And the Bullitt I first test drove had the ball stolen, and I installed a new one as tight as it'd go, and also had that gap. I'm afraid to even try to get mine to sit lower, since we'd probably damage/ruin the shifter before cross-threading that heavy ball. And I don't want to drill it inside either. The only thing we could try to do is to try a tap and see if it goes any deeper, in case the threads are not all the way to the end of the hole. As anybody checked that?

I'd definitely like to sit mine lower, even if the gap is not totally removed. And that photo from Brett on post #11 makes me hopeful there's a cure for the gap .

Yes, that is how it came......

 

[Shibaman]

Now that looks good, clean, tight fit. Tranision from stick to knob smooth. The assembly looks stout, & functional, much better than the after market ones shown.

Nothing against after market parts providing they improve what has been replaced.

Maybe some need to leave their balls alone LMAO

Crap....now i have to go look!
On my miata 93le i replaced the fancy narde leather knob with a brushed alum. Round balls are the best

 

[Shibaman]

Crap....now i have to go look!
On my miata 93le i replaced the fancy narde leather knob with a brushed alum. Round balls are the best

I had a slight gap. Turned one more time. Good enough. You cant see it while driving. All good.

 

[Elp_jc]

My gap was like post #1. Too hard to screw another turn, so removed it, and tapped it until tap (11mm x 1.5) bottomed out with about 3/4 of a turn. I could screw the knob an extra turn after that, but gap was still visible, so removed the knob again, sanded down the top threads on the shaft a little, and was able to turn it a second turn lower. It wasn't quite enough to be flush with the reverse lockout, but almost (about 1/2 turn gap). The tiny gap is not visible anymore, unless putting my head close and under the knob, so I left it alone after 2 extra turns. Plus my hands are blistered from the previous efforts, so I was done anyway .

 

[Rapid Red]

I had a slight gap. Turned one more time. Good enough. You cant see it while driving. All good.

Nice work ......... way to go.

Once discovered, go out and look

, .......I'd done the same.

Pep

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