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Vegas5OH

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manley is a good company but those rods were prone to cracking under boost
I would opt for billet if you plan to have a power adder
Ive never heard of Manley H beams having problems cracking let alone the H tuff. I'm personally running an RPG engine with H tuff rods in it making over 1000 wheel and over 20 pounds of boost no issues. I have heard of people cracking blocks before hurting an H tuff rod.
 
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robmustang201528

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Ive never heard of Manley H beams having problems cracking let alone the H tuff. I'm personally running an RPG engine with H tuff rods in it making over 1000 wheel and over 20 pounds of boost no issues. I have heard of people cracking blocks before hurting an H tuff rod.
Non sleeved making over 1000 wheel?? I know the build that RPG is selling is advertising 1200whp and can handle 20 to 22lbs of boost... and I'm not doubting the power you making... but when I talk to people or engine shops, they tell me if I want to make 1000 plus you need sleeves. The block can handle 1000 and that's pushing it. So these stock blocks can handle 1200whp? Gen 2 and gen 3's?
 

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Vegas5OH

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I am not running a coyote block I am running a 5.2 predator block (2020 GT500 block). Gen 1 and 2 coyote blocks can handle 1000 with no sleeves, I'm pretty sure gen3 can handle more. Gen3 is the strongest factory coyote block.
 
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robmustang201528

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I am not running a coyote block I am running a 5.2 predator block (2020 GT500 block). Gen 1 and 2 coyote blocks can handle 1000 with no sleeves, I'm pretty sure gen3 can handle more. Gen3 is the strongest factory coyote block.
Why is the gen 3 a stronger block?
 

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Because Ford casted in a cylinder support. The same support that gen1 and gen2 need added the gen3 comes with
Gen 3 coyote also have the longer (than Gen 1 voodoo) 12 mm head bolts (like the predator and later voodoo blocks )
11-12 Gen 1 coyote blocks used them too then they switched to the 11 mm In the later Gen 1 and Gen 2 coyote
The longer bolts help with the cracking that occurs around the knock sensor bosses that is also common - happened to me with a non sleeved Gen 2 coyote block with the sleeve supports that was loosing coolant . That’s where the block cracked .
 

Jackson1320

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Gen 3 coyote also have the longer (than Gen 1 voodoo) 12 mm head bolts (like the predator and later voodoo blocks )
11-12 Gen 1 coyote blocks used them too then they switched to the 11 mm In the later Gen 1 and Gen 2 coyote
The longer bolts help with the cracking that occurs around the knock sensor bosses that is also common - happened to me with a non sleeved Gen 2 coyote block with the sleeve supports that was loosing coolant . That’s where the block cracked .
Yes but that is a easy fix. The problem with the gen3 is that the cylinder coating can flake off and tear up cylinder and the block. I would probably go with the gen2 with cylinder supports and 12mm head studs if I’m not going to be sleeving it
 

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Jackson1320

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Jed S.

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I’m getting a non-sleeved 5.2 predator block built locally with everything recommended by RPG. Was gonna go sleeved but they said every 2-3 years you need to refresh the sleeves. That was a deal killer for me. I’m going for 1300whp and they said I’ll be perfectly fine with no sleeves on a predator block for a long time. Total out the door it came to around 6.5-7k, being assembled now.
 
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robmustang201528

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I’m getting a non-sleeved 5.2 predator block built locally with everything recommended by RPG. Was gonna go sleeved but they said every 2-3 years you need to refresh the sleeves. That was a deal killer for me. I’m going for 1300whp and they said I’ll be perfectly fine with no sleeves on a predator block for a long time. Total out the door it came to around 6.5-7k, being assembled now.
If I have to get my sleeves refreshed every 2-3 years... I'm not getting sleeves either. I'm not tearing my motor down every 3 years to get my sleeves refreshed. That's crazy. Someone else on the forum said this but he wasn't quite sure if it was true or not.
 

Jackson1320

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If I have to get my sleeves refreshed every 2-3 years... I'm not getting sleeves either. I'm not tearing my motor down every 3 years to get my sleeves refreshed. That's crazy. Someone else on the forum said this but he wasn't quite sure if it was true or not.
I have never heard of sleeves needing changing unless somehow damaged. 2618 pistons can cause cylinders to wear faster than others pistons but they are the strongest. Engines with 2618 pistons are normally inspected and serviced regularly. A hypereutectic or a 4032 pistons are a lot easier on your cylinders because they run a tighter ptw clearance. Also the gen1 and gen2 both are sleeved from the factory and don’t need to have the sleeves replaced every 3-4 years so I don’t see why a much stronger sleeve would need to be replaced
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