Breathers , catch can or?

[UPRjoe]

I think we may have to get Steve, 'The Catch Can Man' to get together with 'The Mustang King' for a quick tech video to show the differences between a catch can system and a breather / breather tank system.

Here's some input from Steve at UPR:

For this application, here's some info.

The UPR Dual Valve catch can kit is great for street driven cars that are going to keep using the Supercharger air inlet and filter. The catch can has a connection to the air inlet tube so that when the engine is under boost, the positive pressure in the intake will close the check valve in the vacuum hose, and keep boost pressure from entering the catch can and then add to crankcase pressure. The hose connected from the catch can to the air inlet is used to take advantage of the high velocity air being pulled in by the supercharger to keep air moving through the catch can even when in boost.

If you plan on running a blower guard ( or equivalent air bell / filter delete ) and eliminate the air inlet tube and filter - or just want to have a very simple install - then we would recommend using the dual inlet breather tank kit.

The dual inlet breather tank kit has 2 hoses. One from each valve cover that connect to each side of the breather tank. It has no connection to vacuum or the supercharger inlet, so it is great for higher boost applications or for cars that have been tuned with the intake manifold vacuum capped off. The tank mounts to the driver side shock tower or can be mounted to the fender well area with the versatile bracket. This is cleaner than the valve cover mounted breathers that can leak all over the valve covers. The hoses have UPR Plug N Play fittings at both ends for an easy install and easy maintenance.

Both the catch can and breather tanks have containment cups that unscrew so you can walk away with it and dump it with your used oil without having to remove the system. You can clean the catch can or the breather with warm water and dish soap. Even the filter on the breather itself.

Both have advantages. To sum up, the catch can kit is 'closed' and is great for daily street driven cars that run air filters. The breather tank is 'open' to atmosphere and is great for weekend street / strip / race /track day cars that see boost more often than part throttle driving.

Catch can, breathers, or breather tank kit, it all depends on what you want on your car and what works for you .
Hope this helps

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[Mustangfreek]

I missed this reply in my hectic week.

Thanks a bunch for the info..I’m a nerd and suck it up..lol

 

[mangosmoothie]

I was going to mickey mouse my own OCC together using this

https://damondmotorsports.com/colle...rsal-oil-catch-can-kit?variant=39408881369130

and https://damondmotorsports.com/collections/oil-catch-can/products/check-valve?variant=1919243524

Under vacuum, the PCV works like normal but with a catch can. Under boost the driver side can vent to the intake tube and passenger side can vent to atmosphere if it needs to. The check valve stops boost from the mani/tb from entering the can.

Basically a hybrid of Steve's closed system and the full open breather. Oh, and you can mount it wherever you want and run a drain line off the petcock.

 

[Mustangfreek]

The UPR Dual Valve catch can kit is great for street driven cars that are going to keep using the Supercharger air inlet and filter. The catch can has a connection to the air inlet tube so that when the engine is under boost, the positive pressure in the intake will close the check valve in the vacuum hose, and keep boost pressure from entering the catch can and then add to crankcase pressure. The hose connected from the catch can to the air inlet is used to take advantage of the high velocity air being pulled in by the supercharger to keep air moving through the catch can even when in boost.



The dual inlet breather tank kit has 2 hoses. One from each valve cover that connect to each side of the breather tank. It has no connection to vacuum or the supercharger inlet, so it is great for higher boost applications or for cars that have been tuned with the intake manifold vacuum capped off. The tank mounts to the driver side shock tower or can be mounted to the fender well area with the versatile bracket. This is cleaner than the valve cover mounted breathers that can leak all over the valve covers. The hoses have UPR Plug N Play fittings at both ends for an easy install and easy maintenance.

Both the catch can and breather tanks have containment cups that unscrew so you can walk away with it and dump it with your used oil without having to remove the system. You can clean the catch can or the breather with warm water and dish soap. Even the filter on the breather itself.

Both have advantages. To sum up, the catch can kit is 'closed' and is great for daily street driven cars that run air filters. The breather tank is 'open' to atmosphere and is great for weekend street / strip / race /track day cars that see boost more often than part throttle driving.

back to this, adhd, ocd I have..lol

So this “open”system has the valve cover breather and catch can/breather setup?

Man , seems so simple, yet there’s so many different options.
Dont want a smelly/oily mess (streetcar)
don’t like idea of any vacumn and oil system plugged in, as that’s what I’m trying to delete



Any forum discounts or sponsors I can give my money too? Since this forum is the only thing helping me out.

 

[UPRjoe]

Punching Mustang6G in the coupon code on the UPR site gets you the forum discount.

The open system is the simplest since it only connects to the valve covers. If you do not want to have vacuum connected to a catch can, then the open breather system is the way to go. The breather tank, hoses, and filter can all be washed with warm water and dish soap as needed.

You will get a whiff of engine oil with an open system at times. There is no way around that. One way to minimize odors with an open breather tank is to mount it near the engine air inlet which will help to draw fumes away from the HVAC vent at the base of the windshield, but with the limited under hood space combined with superchargers, charge pipes, intercooler hoses, etc, it is not always feasible.

If you cannot deal with the occasional odor from an open system, then the closed catch can kit is the better choice. Just remember, it does not work with an open supercharger inlet, bellmouth, or blower guard. It needs to have connections to the cold air intake to work properly.

 

[Mustangfreek]

Also

I see the Upr and other kits that have just one hose from passenger side pvc and intake to the can?

what do you do with the drivers side pcv and hose?

cap it off and air inlet and breather or plug on valve cover?

 

[UPRjoe]

If you look at the dual valve catch can kit, and some of the single valve kits, you will see we have a CSS. The Clean Side Separator is a small separator that connects to the driver side valve cover, and has a hose connecting it to the air intake tube.

If you have vacuum applied to the crankcase (via the intake manifold vacuum port to catch can to PCV connection) then you should have a method for fresh air, or clean make up air to enter the crankcase. The CSS allows fresh air from the air box to enter the crankcase during part throttle driving, and will trap the small amount of oil splash that could escape when under boost or hard driving.

 

[Angrey]

It seems like the above is only addressing centri setups. What about positive displacement setups where the intake tube doesn't generate positive pressure? I guess in the two application scenario that would be equivalent to the turbo guard condition for turbos or centri.

If there's no positive pressure to activate the valve from the intake tube, could a vacuum line port from the blower work the same?

 

[Excelerater]

catch can is cleaner.....Breathers leave oil residue

 

[Grimreaper]

PD setups go just like stock. Pass side behind the TB but in front of the rotors and driver side in front of the Tb after the filter/ maf. Only pressurization is lower mani so less to think through or need check valves on

 

[Angrey]

PD setups go just like stock. Pass side behind the TB but in front of the rotors and driver side in front of the Tb after the filter/ maf. Only pressurization is lower mani so less to think through or need check valves on

That's my point, it wouldn't permit the use of the pressured isolation valve on their dual can setup.

 

[usmade75]

If you look at the dual valve catch can kit, and some of the single valve kits, you will see we have a CSS. The Clean Side Separator is a small separator that connects to the driver side valve cover, and has a hose connecting it to the air intake tube.

If you have vacuum applied to the crankcase (via the intake manifold vacuum port to catch can to PCV connection) then you should have a method for fresh air, or clean make up air to enter the crankcase. The CSS allows fresh air from the air box to enter the crankcase during part throttle driving, and will trap the small amount of oil splash that could escape when under boost or hard driving.

If you look at the dual valve catch can kit, and some of the single valve kits, you will see we have a CSS. The Clean Side Separator is a small separator that connects to the driver side valve cover, and has a hose connecting it to the air intake tube.

If you have vacuum applied to the crankcase (via the intake manifold vacuum port to catch can to PCV connection) then you should have a method for fresh air, or clean make up air to enter the crankcase. The CSS allows fresh air from the air box to enter the crankcase during part throttle driving, and will trap the small amount of oil splash that could escape when under boost or hard driving.

UPR Joe, running 2020 GT with your UPR dual valve catch can on a stage 2 Procharger setup. Runs grear no issues, but looking for a good place to tap into for a boost gauge...I believe the check valves are preventing me from seeing boost post intake.

 

[Jackson1320]

catch can is cleaner.....Breathers leave oil residue

This depends on how much blowby you have

 

[TRP45ACP]

Completely agree. My breathers remain very clean for long periods of time.

 

[andrewtac]

When I had the Paxton, can stayed empty. With the JTB I have to empty it often. Went from 10-12ish to 18+ psi.

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