Brake Pad Replacement Questions

[Caballus]

The economics is pretty good actually. Stainless on aluminum will corrode to produce a fine white powder. Geomet, the coating on the OEM bolts, won't do that. They're not as corrosion resistant as stainless, but they're much better when installed in an aluminum fitting that's exposed to a corrosive situation, like road salt and water.

Second, they're not anywhere close to torque to yield - they tight, but that's all. They're single-use because the thread locker coating gets damaged when they're installed. Ford wants you to use new bolts with new thread locker.

Lastly, I removed and reinstalled my OEM bolts three or four times before I switched to Caliperfexiion studs. They're fine. Between the Geomet and the thread locker, there's no galling or damage.

Why did you decide to go with Caliperfexion?

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[JAJ]

Why did you decide to go with Caliperfexion?

I went with the Caliperfexion studs as soon as they were available - I think mine are from the very first batch. I take my front calipers off three or four times every track season, either to change pads or to swap front hubs. I've probably had them off 15 times since the studs went on. That's the on-again, off-again service that studs are meant for. I have the black iron ones (by choice) and I soak them down with WD40 a couple times a year and they're in perfect shape.

When you're only changing pads every 60,000 miles, the factory bolts have a lot to recommend them.

 

[Caballus]

I went with the Caliperfexion studs as soon as they were available - I think mine are from the very first batch. I take my front calipers off three or four times every track season, either to change pads or to swap front hubs. I've probably had them off 15 times since the studs went on. That's the on-again, off-again service that studs are meant for. I have the black iron ones (by choice) and I soak them down with WD40 a couple times a year and they're in perfect shape.

When you're only changing pads every 60,000 miles, the factory bolts have a lot to recommend them.

Thanks. Makes sense. I've had them on both my GT350s and swear by them. I fully understand and respect @UnhandledException 's point about the cost considerations when changing pads so infrequently. However, I still think they are worth having even in those conditions, perhaps minus the sleeves. Every time the OEM bolts are removed and replaced, there is a risk of stripping, which is increased by the fact that we are dealing with steel on aluminum. Also, OEM Geomet coating notwithstanding, the material plus coating on the studs make them more corrosion resistant than the OEM bolts. The studs most likely will outlast the calipers and knuckles. Finally, as the car ages, the likelihood of removing the brakes for maintenance reasons other than pad replacement increases, particularly if driven during the winter. Being able to slide the calipers on and off quickly and simply for any purpose makes the studs a worthwhile investment in my mind--no cleaning out threads, hoping to blow out all of the locktite, potential for stripping, etc.

Not criticizing and not getting a kickback. To each his own. Just believe that in the long run, no matter how often pads are replaced, studs are a worthwhile investment/upgrade in an area where Ford underinvested on the car.

 

[torque124]

And for your usage profile, the OEM fluid is perfect. Fluids with higher boiling points like Motul RBF tend to be hygroscopic and need to be changed more often.

You are absolutely right on the first point, for street use any fresh dot 4 fluid works...

... but absolutely ALL glycol-ether based brake fluids (like DOT 4) are hygroscopic, and I am sorry you are wrong here. The higher the boiling point, the less vaporization in the fluid due to boiling..

 

[JAJ]

You are absolutely right on the first point, for street use any fresh dot 4 fluid works...

... but absolutely ALL glycol-ether based brake fluids (like DOT 4) are hygroscopic, and I am sorry you are wrong here. The higher the boiling point, the less vaporization in the fluid due to boiling..

Okay, you're right, I should have said "more hygroscopic". What's the boiling point thing about? I haven't heard that before. Unless you overheat the fluid, it never boils, so vaporization shouldn't be a problem.

Also, I've read that moisture in brake fluid can promote corrosion in the brake system, so if you don't need the high boiling point of a specialty fluid, then run the OEM product. I don't know if the corrosion thing true or not - I've never run fluid long enough for it to be a problem, even in the grocery getter.

Over the years I've run Motul RBF, Castrol SRF, ATE 200, Pentosin DOT4 LV and Ford's DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. This spring I slapped a set of caliper temperature strips on my calipers, and it became pretty obvious pretty fast that I can run the OEM DOT 4LV just fine. So that's what I'm doing.

 

[UnhandledException]

Update : I am currently in the middle of the procedure and have had an unexpected problem with the passenger side rear wheel. There appears to be a loud click coming from inside the wheel hub, inner side (where I believe parking brake system is). If I have to guess, it is the park brake system.

Currently the car is on 4 jack stands and when I try to turn the rotor on that side (neutral gear, and hand brake down), it requires a lot of force to turn and every time I try to move it forward or backward, there is that loud click (but its a single click, once it turns you dont hear it again until it stops).

- I tried lowering the car, putting the wheel back and driving and same noise is there.
- I tried loosening the pads, pins, spring in fact removed everything (so only rotor is there and no pads), and the noise is still coming.

My car had required twice in 62,000 miles park brake cable adjustment. The last time I adjusted it, I did a little too much so that it doesnt get loosened again. I went under the car and loosened it a lot. When I did that, it is a tad bit easier to move that wheel but the click noise is still there.

Not sure what this can be, any help is appreciated.

 

[JAJ]

Update : I am currently in the middle of the procedure and have had an unexpected problem with the passenger side rear wheel. There appears to be a loud click coming from inside the wheel hub, inner side (where I believe parking brake system is). If I have to guess, it is the park brake system.

Currently the car is on 4 jack stands and when I try to turn the rotor on that side (neutral gear, and hand brake down), it requires a lot of force to turn and every time I try to move it forward or backward, there is that loud click (but its a single click, once it turns you dont hear it again until it stops).

- I tried lowering the car, putting the wheel back and driving and same noise is there.
- I tried loosening the pads, pins, spring in fact removed everything (so only rotor is there and no pads), and the noise is still coming.

My car had required twice in 62,000 miles park brake cable adjustment. The last time I adjusted it, I did a little too much so that it doesnt get loosened again. I went under the car and loosened it a lot. When I did that, it is a tad bit easier to move that wheel but the click noise is still there.

Not sure what this can be, any help is appreciated.

There's a lot going on at the back - the limited slip differential links the rear wheels to each other, to the drive shaft and the transmission. Nothing that rotates at the back is really independent of anything else that rotates. And then there's the half-shafts, the hubs and the parking brake assemblies. The sound could be coming from any of them.

Thing is, if the parking brake is dragging, the rear hub should be smoking hot after you drive it. If it's not, then it's not dragging. That doesn't mean it's not the thing making the noise, but it's not because it's out of adjustment.

Can you take the rotor off? That might be the best way to figure it out.

 

[UnhandledException]

There's a lot going on at the back - the limited slip differential links the rear wheels to each other, to the drive shaft and the transmission. Nothing that rotates at the back is really independent of anything else that rotates. And then there's the half-shafts, the hubs and the parking brake assemblies. The sound could be coming from any of them.

Thing is, if the parking brake is dragging, the rear hub should be smoking hot after you drive it. If it's not, then it's not dragging. That doesn't mean it's not the thing making the noise, but it's not because it's out of adjustment.

Can you take the rotor off? That might be the best way to figure it out.

Here is a video. I can feel it coming inside the rotor.

 

[JAJ]

Here is a video. I can feel it coming inside the rotor.

That's a new one on me. Take the rotor off and see what's what - it doesn't sound sinister, but it doesn't sound right either.

 

[UnhandledException]

That's a new one on me. Take the rotor off and see what's what - it doesn't sound sinister, but it doesn't sound right either.

I completed the entire job now. Car is still on the jack stands outside with wheels off. I m calling it a day.

if it werent for this wheel and the amount of time I wasted lowering the car back down, trying to drive and assess the sound, loosen the park brake (not easy when on jack stands!) I would have been done in 3 hours flat (fluid and pads).

JAJ, if it werent for your help and explicit instructions, there is no way that would be possible. Thanks again for all your help.

Now as for the rear rotor, how hard is this? I remember reading a thread somewhere in trackmustangs I think which was talking about some special tools (or was it to measure the park brake drums?).

Is this something I can screw up? I have the entire day tomorrow OR i could take it to Ford.

One last thing, since the last time I adjusted the park brake I actually have been hearing a very similar “clunk” every time I drive off with the car. I always thought maybe this was due to worn brake pads, but maybe it wasnt. The noise now is louder though thats for sure and it happens backwards and forwards (whereas before it would happen just the first time and it would stop).

I am happy to attempt to remove the rotor if you or someone can point me to instructions. I m guessing the caliper needs to come off too which sucks.

 

[JAJ]

I completed the entire job now. Car is still on the jack stands outside with wheels off. I m calling it a day.

if it werent for this wheel and the amount of time I wasted lowering the car back down, trying to drive and assess the sound, loosen the park brake (not easy when on jack stands!) I would have been done in 3 hours flat (fluid and pads).

JAJ, if it werent for your help and explicit instructions, there is no way that would be possible. Thanks again for all your help.

Now as for the rear rotor, how hard is this? I remember reading a thread somewhere in trackmustangs I think which was talking about some special tools (or was it to measure the park brake drums?).

Is this something I can screw up? I have the entire day tomorrow OR i could take it to Ford.

One last thing, since the last time I adjusted the park brake I actually have been hearing a very similar “clunk” every time I drive off with the car. I always thought maybe this was due to worn brake pads, but maybe it wasnt. The noise now is louder though thats for sure and it happens backwards and forwards (whereas before it would happen just the first time and it would stop).

I am happy to attempt to remove the rotor if you or someone can point me to instructions. I m guessing the caliper needs to come off too which sucks.

You're welcome - as I said earlier, your attention to detail was essential in getting through this without any challenges. The rear brake thing is an oddball - nothing to do with the pad change, just something you found along the way.

Yes, you have to take the caliper off to take the rotor off. Here's what I wrote in another thread:

The parking brake fittings shroud the caliper mounting bolts so the cable has to be disconnected and removed from the fittings first. I use a special pair of pliers (TEKTON 34435) with a loop at the end to push up on the parking brake spring and then apply a pry bar to flip the fitting off the brake lever. Once the cable's unhooked, you need a special tool (Lisle 40750) for removing the fitting from the top of the bracket – it slips in underneath and closes the fingers that lock the fitting in place allowing you to just pull it up and remove it.

The tools are in this picture:

You can get the cable off the handbrake actuator without the special Tekton pliers, but the little Lisle tool (in the center of the photo) is a gem when it comes to getting the handbrake cable out of the bracket. The cable end fitting is retained in its hole in the top of the bracket by three thin spring steel prongs that spread out after pushing the fitting into the hole. The little tool slips over the cable end fitting below the bracket and as you lift it up under the fitting, it squeezes all three prongs together. Once it's in place, you just pull up on the fitting and it just slips out without any risk of damage to the prongs.

If you've loosened the handbrake cable already, getting the cable off the brake lever should be relatively easy - I've never loosened mine, so it's pretty tight when I get in there. But that Lisle tool is a game-changer - maybe call around and see if you can find one locally. Or put it off for a week and get both tools from Amazon.

Thing is, when you get in there, you might find you need some parts that you don't have on hand. It sounds like something is loose in there, but there's no way to know until you get it apart.

It's possible, but it's a long shot, that the noise is caused by a loose hand brake drum. The rear hat (the aluminum thing in the middle of the rotor) has a steel liner inside that plays the role of brake drum for the hand brake. It's possible that the liner has detached from the aluminum and is loose in there. It's the only thing I can think of that would make a sound like that. As I said before, if a shoe was loose or it was binding, you'd expect to have a smoking hot rotor hat, and as far I can determine from what you've written, you don't have that problem. So, if nothing's rubbing in there then it must be something loose.

 

[UnhandledException]

You're welcome - as I said earlier, your attention to detail was essential in getting through this without any challenges. The rear brake thing is an oddball - nothing to do with the pad change, just something you found along the way.

Yes, you have to take the caliper off to take the rotor off. Here's what I wrote in another thread:

The parking brake fittings shroud the caliper mounting bolts so the cable has to be disconnected and removed from the fittings first. I use a special pair of pliers (TEKTON 34435) with a loop at the end to push up on the parking brake spring and then apply a pry bar to flip the fitting off the brake lever. Once the cable's unhooked, you need a special tool (Lisle 40750) for removing the fitting from the top of the bracket – it slips in underneath and closes the fingers that lock the fitting in place allowing you to just pull it up and remove it.

The tools are in this picture:

You can get the cable off the handbrake actuator without the special Tekton pliers, but the little Lisle tool (in the center of the photo) is a gem when it comes to getting the handbrake cable out of the bracket. The cable end fitting is retained in its hole in the top of the bracket by three thin spring steel prongs that spread out after pushing the fitting into the hole. The little tool slips over the cable end fitting below the bracket and as you lift it up under the fitting, it squeezes all three prongs together. Once it's in place, you just pull up on the fitting and it just slips out without any risk of damage to the prongs.

If you've loosened the handbrake cable already, getting the cable off the brake lever should be relatively easy - I've never loosened mine, so it's pretty tight when I get in there. But that Lisle tool is a game-changer - maybe call around and see if you can find one locally. Or put it off for a week and get both tools from Amazon.

Thing is, when you get in there, you might find you need some parts that you don't have on hand. It sounds like something is loose in there, but there's no way to know until you get it apart.

It's possible, but it's a long shot, that the noise is caused by a loose hand brake drum. The rear hat (the aluminum thing in the middle of the rotor) has a steel liner inside that plays the role of brake drum for the hand brake. It's possible that the liner has detached from the aluminum and is loose in there. It's the only thing I can think of that would make a sound like that. As I said before, if a shoe was loose or it was binding, you'd expect to have a smoking hot rotor hat, and as far I can determine from what you've written, you don't have that problem. So, if nothing's rubbing in there then it must be something loose.

i’m afraid what I am going to find in there:(

 

[JAJ]

i’m afraid what I am going to find in there:(

Don't sweat it, you won't find anything you can't fix.

 

[UnhandledException]

Don't sweat it, you won't find anything you can't fix.

So the issue seems like that spring that compresses/decompresses when hand brake is applied seems to not fully decompress when hand brake is released. I can push it down with my fingers and when I do that, I hear that “clunk” and the rotor turns freely. Unfortunately next hand brake application does the same thing.

i checked the other side and the other side spring decompresses more and also when it finishes decompress, it makes that “clunk” noise by itself.

Not sure what to do, should I loosen the hand brake cable more? Should I apply some WD-40 somewhere on that spring? I dont want to mess with WD-40 on brake parts without knowing if its safe.

 

[UnhandledException]

Update : I put the wheels back now. I drove the car around and there are no issues or noises.

I noticed that when the wheels arent on the car, the rotor has a side to side play (both sides do this). In fact, when you pull the hand brake, you can see rotor pushing outward (both sides do this as well). What I did was to loosen the hand brake cable even more (now it requires to be pull up a lot) and also wiggle that rotor side to side and somehow I broke that tension loose. After putting the wheels back, the clunk is gone and the wheel turns freely. The only thing is now I dont know if I should tighten the hand brake cable back a bit as it requires to be pulled way high but I m afraid its going to get stuck again.

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