Brake Pad Replacement Questions

[REDLINE]

Where do you guys buy oem brembo brake pads for the gt350? Just your local dealer or is there a better site to get them from?

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[UnhandledException]

Where do you guys buy oem brembo brake pads for the gt350? Just your local dealer or is there a better site to get them from?

I just bought mine from getoemparts.com. They had the best price. I also bought the brake fluid and the caliper bolts as their prices for those were almost 50% off.

 

[REDLINE]

I just bought mine from getoemparts.com. They had the best price. I also bought the brake fluid and the caliper bolts as their prices for those were almost 50% off.

Awesome! I’ve never heard of this site. Thanks for the heads-up! Time to order some pads.

 

[Unclenard]

I just bought mine from getoemparts.com. They had the best price. I also bought the brake fluid and the caliper bolts as their prices for those were almost 50% off.

FYI - That website is registered by Tasca Automotive Group.

 

[UnhandledException]

I got my pads recently and bolts. I am surprised to see the thickness of these new pads. It looks like I have used up perhaps 40% of the pad surface in 62,000 miles. Should I not try and get 10,000 more miles out of them? Is there any harm in using the old pads more?

I’m assuming the brake fluid needs flushing regardless right away as it has been there for 4 years. But even the fluid is surprisingly good (color wise as well as pedal has no fade).

 

[torque124]

For fluid, just use Motul RBF600. Best boiling points for the money...

 

[UnhandledException]

For fluid, just use Motul RBF600. Best boiling points for the money...

Thanks but I already bought the motorcraft oem one.

 

[JAJ]

Thanks but I already bought the motorcraft oem one.

And for your usage profile, the OEM fluid is perfect. Fluids with higher boiling points like Motul RBF tend to be hygroscopic and need to be changed more often.

 

[JAJ]

I got my pads recently and bolts. I am surprised to see the thickness of these new pads. It looks like I have used up perhaps 40% of the pad surface in 62,000 miles. Should I not try and get 10,000 more miles out of them? Is there any harm in using the old pads more?

I’m assuming the brake fluid needs flushing regardless right away as it has been there for 4 years. But even the fluid is surprisingly good (color wise as well as pedal has no fade).

OEM pads are 17mm thick overall, with 10mm of friction material. You can run them down to 3mm of friction material (10mm total thickness) without a problem. That's where I'd replace them if they were mine and I was driving mostly street/highway.

 

[Caballus]

Instead of replacement bolts, recommend Caliperfexion studs, even if it means sending already purchased replacement bolts back. Bang for the buck, one of the best mods you can get.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/thank-you-epiphany-and-caliperfection.69880/

 

[UnhandledException]

Instead of replacement bolts, recommend Caliperfexion studs, even if it means sending already purchased replacement bolts back. Bang for the buck, one of the best mods you can get.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/thank-you-epiphany-and-caliperfection.69880/

I don't agree with that. Based on my usage of this car, the pads last 60-70,000 miles. I paid $6 per bolt times 4 is $24 (including shipping). The caliperfexion studs are almost $200 with the extenders to slide out the caliper (I bought 180mm bolts to do the same at $1.52 per piece 2 of them, that's $3). So for me the studs are 8 times more money and would pay for themselves around 500,000 miles. Not worth it. And I drive this car in snow and salt a lot and it is parked 24/7 outside. I dont think those studs will last 500,000 miles as well as new bolts every 70,000 miles.

 

[Lurker_350]

I don't agree with that. Based on my usage of this car, the pads last 60-70,000 miles. I paid $6 per bolt times 4 is $24 (including shipping). The caliperfexion studs are almost $200 with the extenders to slide out the caliper (I bought 180mm bolts to do the same at $1.52 per piece 2 of them, that's $3). So for me the studs are 8 times more money and would pay for themselves around 500,000 miles. Not worth it. And I drive this car in snow and salt a lot and it is parked 24/7 outside. I dont think those studs will last 500,000 miles as well as new bolts every 70,000 miles.

Not an unreasonable economics argument, but a steel bolt threaded into an aluminum knuckle that is torqued to yield at 136 ft-lb (or else why are they single use) makes me a bit uncomfortable. Looking at photos of people that have removed the bolts, there is definitely some galling. Knuckles are $200 each.....so if you strip or gall it, the caliperfexion studs look like a steal. Plus they make the work much easier. Just my $0.02.

 

[UnhandledException]

Not an unreasonable economics argument, but a steel bolt threaded into an aluminum knuckle that is torqued to yield at 136 ft-lb (or else why are they single use) makes me a bit uncomfortable. Looking at photos of people that have removed the bolts, there is definitely some galling. Knuckles are $200 each.....so if you strip or gall it, the caliperfexion studs look like a steal. Plus they make the work much easier. Just my $0.02.

I dont know why/how it could strip if :

- You use a separate, non thread locker applied, bolt to repeatedly clean the threads (followed by compressed air).
- Use a good torque wrench to not over tighten
- Do not use the same oem bolt with already used lock tite (and apply more lock tite on it which will screw up the torque readings and cause you to over torque)
- And lastly but more importantly, dont change these pads once every 2-3 months like some people here because they track but rather once every 4-5 years.

 

[JAJ]

Not an unreasonable economics argument, but a steel bolt threaded into an aluminum knuckle that is torqued to yield at 136 ft-lb (or else why are they single use) makes me a bit uncomfortable. Looking at photos of people that have removed the bolts, there is definitely some galling. Knuckles are $200 each.....so if you strip or gall it, the caliperfexion studs look like a steal. Plus they make the work much easier. Just my $0.02.

The economics is pretty good actually. Stainless on aluminum will corrode to produce a fine white powder. Geomet, the coating on the OEM bolts, won't do that. They're not as corrosion resistant as stainless, but they're much better when installed in an aluminum fitting that's exposed to a corrosive situation, like road salt and water.

Second, they're not anywhere close to torque to yield - they tight, but that's all. They're single-use because the thread locker coating gets damaged when they're installed. Ford wants you to use new bolts with new thread locker.

Lastly, I removed and reinstalled my OEM bolts three or four times before I switched to Caliperfexiion studs. They're fine. Between the Geomet and the thread locker, there's no galling or damage.

 

[Lurker_350]

The economics is pretty good actually. Stainless on aluminum will corrode to produce a fine white powder. Geomet, the coating on the OEM bolts, won't do that. They're not as corrosion resistant as stainless, but they're much better when installed in an aluminum fitting that's exposed to a corrosive situation, like road salt and water.

Second, they're not anywhere close to torque to yield - they tight, but that's all. They're single-use because the thread locker coating gets damaged when they're installed. Ford wants you to use new bolts with new thread locker.

Lastly, I removed and reinstalled my OEM bolts three or four times before I switched to Caliperfexiion studs. They're fine. Between the Geomet and the thread locker, there's no galling or damage.

Thanks for correcting the torque misunderstanding - I hadn't considered the thread locker as being the issue.

Also didn't know about the coating on the OEM bolts. I appreciate the information. I guess confirmation bias is a real thing....

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