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Brake Booster Stopped working after Paxton install

Jasmo123

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Brake booster stopped working. So I installed a Paxton kit on a car with a locked out 18 manifold. I had previously removed the 4 way Aspirator from the vacuum system and just replaced with Tee fittings. I noticed after installing the Paxton kit that the vacuum seemed quite high 25+ in. I drove up the road and I get a CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM failure in RED. I know it’s the booster. The brake pedal no longer changes when the engine is started and the brakes are hard. So did I break the brake booster by removing the aspirator and giving too much vacuum or pressure to it with no other check valve except the one on the booster? Anyone have any input on this? How would I make sure it won’t happen again if I get another booster?
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Tommy V

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I know their are guys that take the asprator out,but i think its good to keep it in.Sounds like u dont have manifold vaccum to your brake booster.Check the line that goes to the brake booster for vaccum.at idle.
 
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Jasmo123

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Thanks for the reply, I had vacuum to the booster. I even removed the line into the check valve on the booster and the canister has vacuum after every engine start. You can hear it bleed off when you crack the seal around the check valve.

Since that check valve is there. Why did the booster fail? Too much vacuum generated by the Supercharger maybe? I notice in the Vortech install instructions it shows the booster stays on the Gray side of aspirator. Maybe that also serves to lower the level of vacuum to the brake booster? I don't know what to think. The booster isn't working. The pedal is hard and it doesn't change when you pump it a bunch and then start the engine.

So any and all input is appreciated.
 

fmc_smt

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Where are you getting your vacuum from , pic please
 
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Jasmo123

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I am getting all vacuum from I think its vacuum #1 on the 18 Mani. I am pointing to it in these pics. That comes out splits right there to the brake booster line. Then it goes down and splits again to the CAI line and the other goes to the Blow Off Valve. My gauge in the car reads about 25-26 in hg at idle. It goes down when you rev the engine like it should.
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I'm running a Procharger , I changed my bov and wanted to "clean up " the vacuum lines . Let's just say with out the aspitator my brake pedal was hard with no assist and the bov would not open at idle . . Here is a pic of what I did
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Jasmo123

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Thanks, I have had the aspirator removed for like 6 months with the 18 mani installed. I did a bunch of running and a little revving in the garage before I drove the car up the road. The BOV worked and opened when I stepped on the gas and let off back to idle. The vacuum in the car went up and down in the garage with revs. Then I eased the car up the road and about 1-2 miles from the house the Check Brake system light came on and it hasn't went back out. Thats when the pedal became hard and has been that way since.
 
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Jasmo123

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FMC_SMT,
So I got the Brake Booster working this morning. Apparently the vacuum routing was incorrect. What I did was removed and capped the line I had Teed off to the Cold Air intake. The vacuum system was seeing that as a massive leak. So right now I have just one Tee fitting. Vacuum off the intake goes to the Brake booster and the Blow off Valve. The BOV stays open at idle now and sounds like it functions properly when I rev the engine. The Brake message is gone and my brake pedal feels normal again.

From the picture above I see you have the aspirator installed. The bottom right goes into the intake that's vacuum. The Top right goes back to the brake booster. Where do the 2 lines on the left side go? I assume one goes to the BOV? The other goes to the EVAP sensor maybe?

I am inclined to leave the vacuum connection to the CAI just capped and run it that way.

What do you or anyone else reading this thread think?

Does anyone else with a Paxton have the CAI vacuum line not connected?

What purpose does it serve?
 

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The top left line is capped off and the bottom left goes to my bov . If you also note in the pic I installed MY 18 purge valve set up , instead of modifying the 15 -17 purge valve .
 

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The one going to the cold air intake was a vent for the imrc' on the 15 16 cars,u can leave it capped off.On procharged cars the other side of the aspriator has a 3/8 vaccum line that goes to a vaccum block,so basically just a vaccum sourse and the other line from the aspriator is blocked off.
 

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The way I have it set up for over a year, You have your PCV port, the next Evap and the 3rd is going to break booster with a check valve and a T for the bov 3 inches before check valve.
 
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Jasmo123

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Thanks for the input fellas. i have the CAI port capped off now. I have the 16 EVAP solenoid plumbed in there with a hose. Yeah its not the prettiest but I have it hidden down under everything. I will probably just clean it up a little more just for looks and drive the shit out of it.

I drove the car back to work at lunch time and it seems to be running quite well. i will get some updated logs to my tuner and hopefully get some track passes soon .Car pulls harder than anything I have ever sit in to date. Hopefully i can handle it at the track. I still haven't been WOT. It roasted the tires on the 1-2 shift with what seemed like very light throttle. So this supercharging thing seems to be the ticket!!
 

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Thanks for the input fellas. i have the CAI port capped off now. I have the 16 EVAP solenoid plumbed in there with a hose. Yeah its not the prettiest but I have it hidden down under everything. I will probably just clean it up a little more just for looks and drive the shit out of it.

I drove the car back to work at lunch time and it seems to be running quite well. i will get some updated logs to my tuner and hopefully get some track passes soon .Car pulls harder than anything I have ever sit in to date. Hopefully i can handle it at the track. I still haven't been WOT. It roasted the tires on the 1-2 shift with what seemed like very light throttle. So this supercharging thing seems to be the ticket!!
Can you send me some pics of it? I really need help setting up my hoses
 

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I need help! How should I go about routing my lines? My imrcs are locked out on my 18 mani(disregard the black primer I haven’t finished painting the mani) I have the oem 4 way aspirator laying around so if y’all could guide me on how to do this I will really appreciate it I just want to make sure I don’t lose my brakes
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Jasmo123

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Here is what I wound up with. I threw the aspirator away because it has check valves in certain situations that might not make things work right. I just put the Evap where they show the Evap going on the Lund install. Capped the Vac2 that runs to the back. Then I used a brass 3 way to run Vac1 off the 18 mani to the brake booster and the other way to the Blow off valve. IMRC is locked out.
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cookymunster_gt

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Here is what I wound up with. I threw the aspirator away because it has check valves in certain situations that might not make things work right. I just put the Evap where they show the Evap going on the Lund install. Capped the Vac2 that runs to the back. Then I used a brass 3 way to run Vac1 off the 18 mani to the brake booster and the other way to the Blow off valve. IMRC is locked out.
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Awesome thank you so much! So basically from the brake booster you T it off and that goes to the BOV? Did you add Any check valves?
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