Torque booster vortech/paxton

[beefcake]

the boost will drop off. that is the entire point as someone explained.

i originally started making them for the 11-14 cars that were typically shifting around 7200 or so.

pulley for 13 psi, dump at 10,

once you hit the desired spring pressure, it's going to dump

it all depends on your power band, what your doing, and how your doing it and what fuel....

if you want 12 psi, put 15-16 psi and dump at 12

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[aleccesarenriquez]

gen 2 motors can handle more boost then gen 1 so go 3.33 with no wastegate, should be around 800whp on a Paxton sl. it will take it with opg's and billet crank gears...

A few local Houston guys have had their motors fail with the 3.33 and no wastegate (the Paxton 2200sl is really popular in Houston; a couple of cracked crank gears, lifted heads, etc. ). Also the 3.33 overspins the blower at higher rpms.

Last year, a guy from Georgia came down and gapped probably 3 different Auto Paxton S550s running the 3.33 (they were all around 800). He was running the jtb blower on a 3.33 as well, with a t56, and a boost controller to wastegate it at 750 whp and no gate was at 850-900.

I know his gated 750 wheel was a ton quicker than my 750 wheel just from the mid range power he picked up on.

People tend to over value peak hp. What matters in a race is average hp in powerband (about 5000-7500 rpm for most of us) and weight (and a little aero at higher speeds).

Edit: and like many have said: If you're looking for 750+, you're going to need at least 12 lbs, so gate it to that boost pressure and run a smaller pulley. Don't use the 12 lb pulley.

 

[robmustang201528]

I’ve had a wastegate on mine with a 3.33 pulley for about 3-4 months. Wish I would have done it from the start. Makes a huge difference. Even with 305 MT drag radials 1st and 2nd has traction issues, makes really good power/torque low in the rpm curve (as well as up too). A lot of people say a tune revision isn’t necessary but I would recommend it. My short trims were a little lean and the revision got it back where it needed to be. I wouldn’t mess with a boost controller, can be really hard to dial in and if it let goes you’ll really be rolling the dice. I use a 10lb spring in mine and it holds at 10 all day.

Damn you're auto right?

 

[robmustang201528]

the boost will drop off. that is the entire point as someone explained.

i originally started making them for the 11-14 cars that were typically shifting around 7200 or so.

pulley for 13 psi, dump at 10,

once you hit the desired spring pressure, it's going to dump

it all depends on your power band, what your doing, and how your doing it and what fuel....

if you want 12 psi, put 15-16 psi and dump at 12

So I should put a 15-16 psi spring in my wastgate and have the tuner dump it at 12?

 

[robmustang201528]

the boost will drop off. that is the entire point as someone explained.

i originally started making them for the 11-14 cars that were typically shifting around 7200 or so.

pulley for 13 psi, dump at 10,

once you hit the desired spring pressure, it's going to dump

it all depends on your power band, what your doing, and how your doing it and what fuel....

if you want 12 psi, put 15-16 psi and dump at 12

I would love to shift around 7200 7300 and shift but if you look at my dyno sheet it drops at 6800-6900

 

[aleccesarenriquez]

So I should put a 15-16 psi spring in my wastgate and have the tuner dump it at 12?

No he means put a pulley on the blower that generates 15-16 psi of boost and use a 12 lb spring in your wastegate. Your tuner doesn't change when the wastegate dumps the extra lbs of boost; the spring is mechanical.

Edit: Also, just because your hp starts to fall a little doesn't mean you should shift before then. If you are making 700 at 7000 and 650 at 7500, you shouldn't shift at 7000 just because you start making less. Remember when you shift, you will fall back down in rpm (5000-5500 for example), where you will be making around 550-600, which is less than the 650 you'd be making at 7500. It's ok to wring it out even though you aren't making peak power because your avg hp will stay higher.

 

[robmustang201528]

No he means put a pulley on the blower that generates 15-16 psi of boost and use a 12 lb spring in your wastegate. Your tuner doesn't change when the wastegate dumps the extra lbs of boost; the spring is mechanical.

Edit: Also, just because your hp starts to fall a little doesn't mean you should shift before then. If you are making 700 at 7000 and 650 at 7500, you shouldn't shift at 7000 just because you start making less. Remember when you shift, you will fall back down in rpm (5000-5500 for example), where you will be making around 550-600, which is less than the 650 you'd be making at 7500. It's ok to wring it out even though you aren't making peak power because your avg hp will stay higher.

I think I have a smaller pully then that I think it's a 331. It doesn't say on the pulley it's also a 8 rib setup

 

[robmustang201528]

No he means put a pulley on the blower that generates 15-16 psi of boost and use a 12 lb spring in your wastegate. Your tuner doesn't change when the wastegate dumps the extra lbs of boost; the spring is mechanical.

Edit: Also, just because your hp starts to fall a little doesn't mean you should shift before then. If you are making 700 at 7000 and 650 at 7500, you shouldn't shift at 7000 just because you start making less. Remember when you shift, you will fall back down in rpm (5000-5500 for example), where you will be making around 550-600, which is less than the 650 you'd be making at 7500. It's ok to wring it out even though you aren't making peak power because your avg hp will stay higher.

And thanks for the clarification

 

[robmustang201528]

Where do I get the 12lb spring? Does @beefcake sell them?

 

[beefcake]

So I should put a 15-16 psi spring in my wastgate and have the tuner dump it at 12?

no, pulley for 15-16 and spring dumps at 12

I would love to shift around 7200 7300 and shift but if you look at my dyno sheet it drops at 6800-6900

2-300 past peak hp is where you want to shift

 

[Oxford_5oh]

Can you get away with the 3.33 pulley on 6 rib?

 

[Malcornelius]

Correct.

Edit: Pullied for the 3.33.

Where do I get the 12lb spring? Does @beefcake sell them?

When I bought the kit from Beef, it came with a Turbosmart Hypergate 45 wastegate with multiple color coded springs in different diameters and tensions that you can mix and match to achieve your desired psi. I use a 7 lbs outer and 5 lbs inner. Beef may be able to get the springs. Google Hypergate 45 springs.

 

[TurboMach1]

I have it a TQ booster and its pissing me off. I understand how it works and I think it definitely increase my TQ and maybe horsepower. My TQ and HP numbers are pretty good but once it gets to 6900 rpms, it wastegates all the damn boost out and it'll drop from 12lbs to 9 smdh. I have a 18 intake and oil pump gears. I should be able to pull this shit to 7500rpm and keep pulling but instead it drops boost at 6900. I also have a e-boost controller. A form memeber told me to get a different solenoid but I dont want to spend another dollar on this thing and be disappointed so I'm going to just turn off the e boost controller off, put a 12lbs spring in the wastegate a hope it holds the boost all the way to 7500rpm

Sounds to me like you have either belt slip issues, not pullied enough or your boost controller is not working correctly. This does the same thing a wastegate does on a turbo car except instead of bleeding exhaust pressure to the turbine to slow it down it bleeds charge air to the intake manifold.

 

[robmustang201528]

Sounds to me like you have either belt slip issues, not pullied enough or your boost controller is not working correctly. This does the same thing a wastegate does on a turbo car except instead of bleeding exhaust pressure to the turbine to slow it down it bleeds charge air to the intake manifold.

I have thr 8 rib setup, belt seems pretty tight, I don't see any wear on the belt what are some other symptoms of belt slip?

 

[Tatum337]

A few local Houston guys have had their motors fail with the 3.33 and no wastegate (the Paxton 2200sl is really popular in Houston; a couple of cracked crank gears, lifted heads, etc. ). Also the 3.33 overspins the blower at higher rpms.

Last year, a guy from Georgia came down and gapped probably 3 different Auto Paxton S550s running the 3.33 (they were all around 800). He was running the jtb blower on a 3.33 as well, with a t56, and a boost controller to wastegate it at 750 whp and no gate was at 850-900.

I know his gated 750 wheel was a ton quicker than my 750 wheel just from the mid range power he picked up on.

People tend to over value peak hp. What matters in a race is average hp in powerband (about 5000-7500 rpm for most of us) and weight (and a little aero at higher speeds).

Edit: and like many have said: If you're looking for 750+, you're going to need at least 12 lbs, so gate it to that boost pressure and run a smaller pulley. Don't use the 12 lb pulley.

You referring to Alex Flores?? I live in GA. What I do personally is, run the wastegate on the street to tame the car down. Now at the track, no wastegate.

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