BG MOA treatment

[JetGray_Mach1]

THey were initially spec'd to use water thin 5W20 (CAFE reasons only) and the wear that occurred caused the tick.. of course once its worn no oil will fix it. I'm a prominent believer that if nothing thinner than 5W30 was used from the get-go we wouldn't have the issue. 8 out of 10 mustang owners run them hard so they should have the 5W50 in them anyway but that hurt MPG's so FORD never really pushed it for sake of fleet economy. I have a 2015 with 119,000 miles on it and it has never had anything other than 5W30-5W50 in it and it doesn't tick whatsoever... ;)

I am not disagreeing on the use of 5w30. I used 5w30 on my M1 from day one and my coyote ticks away just like my previous gen 1 lol embrace the tick

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[NGOT8R]

I’m not too terribly worried about the chirp (cricket sound), but it would be nice if I could make it go away without having to pull a valve cover or front timing cover to change the VCT solenoid. The noise isn’t new to me, it’s been there for over 3 years now.

The 5W20 is changed frequently. I usually change it around the 2500 mile mark. I don’t street race the car, so the only time it’s pushed really hard is at the drag strip (maybe three passes on a given track outing) which has been very infrequently as of late.

 

[K4fxd]

One of them NASCAR crew chiefs said "use the thinnest oil you can stand the noise of"

Personally I use 5W-40 and would love to use 10w-40. I think the 10 weight is a better base oil. But that is just my speculation. 5w has been around so long it probably is as good or maybe better.

 

[robvas]

One of them NASCAR crew chiefs said "use the thinnest oil you can stand the noise of"

They only need their engines to last one race!

 

[SheepDog]

Put one of these in. Forget the additives. Especially with only 8500 miles.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089MB5NH...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-0624...omotive&sprefix=castrol,automotive,122&sr=1-6

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550..._rp_0_1_ec_pd_rhf_dp_s_rp_c_d_sccl_2_1_i&th=1

 

[m3incorp]

Interesting.....5w50 has been used in mine since the car had 5 (five) miles on the odometer and guess what........it ticks. Even more interesting is, it didn't start ticking until after the third oil change at 3,000 miles. Yes the car had three oil changes by the time it hit 3k miles...I know some will say a waste....but keep in mind the first one was at 5 miles, which is when the supercharger was installed. Then the next one was at 1k miles, just in case the break-in theory is a true thing. I've been changing between 3000 and 4000 for all changes since then.

THey were initially spec'd to use water thin 5W20 (CAFE reasons only) and the wear that occurred caused the tick.. of course once its worn no oil will fix it. I'm a prominent believer that if nothing thinner than 5W30 was used from the get-go we wouldn't have the issue. 8 out of 10 mustang owners run them hard so they should have the 5W50 in them anyway but that hurt MPG's so FORD never really pushed it for sake of fleet economy. I have a 2015 with 119,000 miles on it and it has never had anything other than 5W30-5W50 in it and it doesn't tick whatsoever... ;)

 

[GregO]

I think the 10 weight is a better base oil.

0W’s have the better base oil blend from all the SDS/MSDS CAS# percentages I’ve seen.
Then again lubricant evolution is in a constant state of flux.

 

[Kabayo]

I conducted a search and saw that several years ago, there was a brief mention of the opinions of some, who thought BG MOA oil treatment was good and others, who thought it was a scam.

I just changed the oil in my car yesterday and put in 5 quarts of 5W20. I think I’m going to try the BG MOA (at no cost to me) and see what it does for the engine. With the oil capacity being 10 quarts, BG says add 22 ounces of MOA, which is roughly 650 milliliters, so I’ll add that amount with a little over 9 quarts of oil. My mileage is currently at 8500, as the car has been sitting for about a month and a half.

One thing I am hoping will happen, is the chirping noise at idle will disappear. I read where BG talks about the product being good for VCT components, so we shall see over time.

Has anyone been running MOA recently and if so, what are your thoughts on it? Thanks

If you car is running good with no issues, why would you want to add anything?

 

[NGOT8R]

If you car is running good with no issues, why would you want to add anything?

To see if there are any good qualities in the product that may be beneficial to my engine. My buddy owns a BG Distributorship and he’s allowed me to try their products (currently running tranny and diff. fluids) in the car, so I figured it couldn’t hurt to give it a try. If the oil analysis that I do on the oil (post MOA treatment) shows that there are no benefits, I will return to my regularly scheduled programming.

 

[TonyT930]

Start by NOT running 5W20.. .its too damn thin and there is a reason ford did away with that oil viscosity and now suggests 5W30 for normal use and 5W50 for track/extreme duty. Its too thin, and doesn't offer boundary layer protection needed in the Coyote, thats why they tick and make noise!

I agree. That's why I've been running 5w30 Amsoil Signature series since new. The engine runs quiet.

 

[robvas]

Personally I use 5W-40 and would love to use 10w-40. I think the 10 weight is a better base oil. But that is just my speculation. 5w has been around so long it probably is as good or maybe better.

I am going to try 10W-40 next, I never drive my car in the cold weather anyway.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

Retired from an oil marketer who carried many brands. Are there differences between major brands? Yes. Are the differences big. Almost all of the time, no. The cost of formulating, production changes, marketing, and sales is astronomical. Additionally, as fast as the manufacturers and government requirements change nowadays it is just not practical for the producers to formulate “super” oils like back in the day. Best example I can give is Delo 400 15W-40. For decades it was more or less the top shelf for diesel. Then the pressure was applied by tons of new emission and fuel economy regulations. This drove all of the specification changes and now each of the majors has a buffet of diesel engine oils to choose from. Are some better than other? Yes. Are they way better? Probably not like back in the day. Why? Re-read above. It does not make good financial sense, with the cost of formulation, base oils, additives, marketing, sales training, advertising, etc to do when there is a good possibility that the spec will change in a future that could be too short to allow recovery of the cost. Which also helps to drive current prices up in order to hopefully make a good profit after the cost.

With that said, no, I am not going to make a brand recommendation. I no longer get paid to do that as I retired. Oil is like whiskey. Drink what you like. The only thing that I will add to here is that if your coyote specs 5W20 I would recommend 5W30. I agree that Ford changing the spec probably indicates that they know something. This is for all applications that are street driven and novice HPDE. If you are Advanced HPDE and especially if you are racing or road coursing then go with your engine builders recommendation, or what you are told from many other track rats running an engine that is exactly like yours AND gets the kind of longevity you can afford.

I love Top Fuel drag racing. But, that’s a game that requires a team of really smart people from the front office to the lowest guy on the totem.

Choose your oil wisely and pay attention to what the Winners use. They might just be on to something. There is some good knowledge here and a lot of experience. Just like the rest of the internet there is plenty of chaff to get through to find the wheat.

Pedal to the metal.

 

[K4fxd]

This drove all of the specification changes and now each of the majors has a buffet of diesel engine oils to choose from.

This is why I look for A3/B4 oil spec. It is a spec for oil performance, not emissions.

 

[NGOT8R]

Picked up the MOA from my buddy this weekend (two 11 oz cans of it). Upon opening the two cans, I immediately noticed a very familiar and unpleasant smell. Strangely, the MOA smells exactly like gear oil or limited slip additive, although the color was about the same as motor oil. It’s in the motor now, so I’ll be taking the car out this week for a test drive.

I also have my oil analysis test kit in hand, so whenever it’s time to change the oil, I’ll be sending it off to see how things shake out with.

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