Barton V MGW (my review)

[3star2nr]

So if you're like me youve obsessed over both. I ultimately settled on barton because I was not going to go back to a push down reverse. Yesterday i installed the shifter so here's my honest review of the installation process.

Related mods/vehicle info: the car is a stock 2016 GT PP With 63k on original clutch. I DO have a anarchy motive atlas 550g weighted shift knob

Pre rant about OEM:
The guy who designed the OEM shift linkage is a fucking moron... As CJ and other outlets have noted removing the 13mm bolt that connects the linkage to the transmission is the hardest part of the instalation process. It took me about 3hrs to remove that bolt and about 4 to reinstall it... The reason why it took so long is the idiot basically created a one off bolt that acts as a clevis pin thats threaded on both ends. They also added a rubber spacer inbetween the ball and linkage... So you first have to fight against the tension of the rubber spacer then some how line it all up, then push down on the bolt while turning it to catch the lower threads...

WHY NOT USE A SIMPLE CLEVIS PIN AND TWO WASHERS AND A COTTER PIN YOU FUCKING DICK HEAD... we trust our wheels to A COTTER pin so youre telling me a shift linkage with zero tension load cant be trusted by a clevis and COTTER? Seriously fuck that guy. Fuck him very much...

Barton v MGW design:
After installing the Barton I can say without a doubt that the MGW is by far the better designed shifter from an installation stand point. Firstly the method for adjusting the reverse lockout is very simple on the MGW.
the way the racespec is designed where it comes fully assembled and in 3 subassemblies makes its about 10x easier than the Barton... The barton is needlessly bulky, and cumbersome and it has a bunch of 7/16 screws that are almost impossible to access with the D/S installed. Then the best part is at the very end lining up the gearstick is fucking hard... And of course the 4 socket bolts they use fall constantly... Because you know it would be too easy.... To NOT HAVE A RECESSED HOLE WHEN YOU DONT HAVE A FLOOR BOARD OR DESIGN THE RUBBER GROMET TO GO BELOW THESE FASTENERS SO IF THE BOLT FALLS IT STAYS IN THE CAR....

The MGW HAS NONE OF THESE DESIGN FLAWS.

my barton reverse lockout color came in raw aluminum not polished like i ordered so I'll have to find somewhere ro hard anodize it or try plastidiping it for now.

Both systems retain the stupid bolt that locks the shift linkage in place. If I were to suggest an improvement id recommend opening the bottom hole of the Barton linkage with a tap 2 sizes larger so it becomes a thru hole. It will make life way easier the bolt will not back out in real life and u can run thread locker if u are worried. Id also suggest to barton and MGW to convert to a simple clevis pin. You can add a thin aluminum spacer to fill out the top threads. That design change will make the shifters significantly quicker to install.

Other installation tips

You will definitely need to remove the exhaust and driveshaft to remove and install the Barton. Use a torx head to remove the screw holding the reverse lock out on the OEM shifter if you choose to try removing it with the driveshaft in place... the driveshaft flange bolts are torqued to 81ftlbs and have loctite on them so they are fucking hard to get off...

I had to rip the bartons rubber spacer to allow the threads to engage on the 13mm bolt...fuck that bolt.

Driving review:
The shifter is awesome. Massive upgrade over stock especially with a weighted knob installed. I did not install the assist springs, but if you plan on racing the car I can see the advantages to it. Basically all the springs do is provide tension so that the shifter can recenter firmer so you nail the 2-3 shift. And keeps the lever centered so u dont get locked out of 4th if u arent accurate in your shift.

I granny shift mostly and never drag race. I mainly bought it to protect my shift forks and to improve the overall driving experience. An aftermarket shifter is definitely needed with a weighted shift knob.

Functionally both shifters work the same so it comes down to personal preference which you prefer...

Hope this helps someone

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[chesster51]

Nice review. I went with MGW and after reading this I’m glad I did. Was the car on a lift for the install? I was lucky enough to install mine on a lift and it was tedious but overall not too bad. Without the lift I could see how it would be a miserable experience. I removed the exhaust because I also installed a Xpipe, but left the driveshaft in place.

 

[3star2nr]

Nice review. I went with MGW and after reading this I’m glad I did. Was the car on a lift for the install? I was lucky enough to install mine on a lift and it was tedious but overall not too bad. Without the lift I could see how it would be a miserable experience. I removed the exhaust because I also installed a Xpipe, but left the driveshaft in place.

Did it on jackstands and thanks man.

I'm happy with it so far. I'm hoping once it wears in it will get looser otherwise ill experiment with some lighter springs to get it to,feel a little less tight

 

[3pdl]

great review. i just installed the mgw race spec standard on a '19 pp1. i advise any else who chooses to diy on jackstands to partially lower the exhaust (i also loosened one of the driveshaft carrier bolts and removed the other). the transmission is too tight in the tunnel to work on otherwise.

the shifter kicks ass. so much better than the sloppy stock shifter. it is initially stiff. it takes a little use to break it in

 

[StreetPony5.0]

great review. i just installed the mgw race spec standard on a '19 pp1. i advise any else who chooses to diy on jackstands to partially lower the exhaust (i also loosened one of the driveshaft carrier bolts and removed the other). the transmission is too tight in the tunnel to work on otherwise.

the shifter kicks ass. so much better than the sloppy stock shifter. it is initially stiff. it takes a little use to break it in

So glad to know that someone who owns 19 Mustang GT has changed stock shifter.

 

[shogun32]

This is why engineers should be forced to work on an assembly line on a regular and recurring basis... So fellow line persons can beat them over the head for their limitless stupid. But I'll bet the poor saps who put that assembly together have a special jig and tension apparatus (and by comparison) unlimited access so "what y're bitching about, Willis?"

A threaded clevis (one side) with shoulder bolt is a very common config.

The MT82 shifter problem is I think mostly confined to the abominable 'support' bracket and rubber insert which Steeda rectifies with theirs. It's vastly improved with just that change.

 

[3star2nr]

This is why engineers should be forced to work on an assembly line on a regular and recurring basis... So fellow line persons can beat them over the head for their limitless stupid. But I'll bet the poor saps who put that assembly together have a special jig and tension apparatus (and by comparison) unlimited access so "what y're bitching about, Willis?"

A threaded clevis (one side) with shoulder bolt is a very common config.

The MT82 shifter problem is I think mostly confined to the abominable 'support' bracket and rubber insert which Steeda rectifies with theirs. It's vastly improved with just that change.

Funny you mention that when i was at peterbilt the engineers actually assemble the first 5 trucks themselves when they roll out a new model. It's the only company I've ever seen that outside of small engineering firms.

And yeah if it were threaded on the nearside only it wouldnt be so bad. I don't know what this clown was thinking, or why the aftermarket shifter guys are retaining this.

Ah well its in,now and it has loosened up. Rev matching in normal mode is almost effortless now I wasnt expecting that.

There is very noticeable increase in noise in 3rd gear between 3-4000rpm. Small price to pay and you dont notice it with the radio going. Overall I think its a great mod

 

[kluke15]

your rants made me laugh. nice write up tho

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