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ARP Balancer Bolt

Roh92cp

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ahl395

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I was told by a local Mustang shop that the ARP bolts are good but can walk loose and should be checked from time to time.

I used blue loctite and torqued to 120ft/lbs for peace of mind.

I will check from time to time (just did my install). If I notice the ARP bolt still come loose I may go back to the (new) OEM bolt.
 

ramirj2

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Mine also came loose.
I torqued to 100 ft/lbs with ARP lube
I will monitor and try the loctite with 120 in case it come loose again.
 

v8ter

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So some time has passed, what have the results been so far? I did a 10rib install last year and after about 1000miles and two track days it hasnt come loose and I didnt use loctite and torqued it to 100ft/lbs
 

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ahl395

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Mine also came loose.
I torqued to 100 ft/lbs with ARP lube
I will monitor and try the loctite with 120 in case it come loose again.
Mine has been good with loctite + 120 for ~24k miles now. It's a b*tch tightening to 120 on an auto though lol.
 

Darthmayxj

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Why not just use a new stock balancer bolt? I've done a few OPG installs now and have not had any of the back out. Just followed the instructions in the service manual for reinstall.
 

awdtsi

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Mine has been good with loctite + 120 for ~24k miles now. It's a b*tch tightening to 120 on an auto though lol.

I'm in the process of trying to tighten mine down. What technique did you use to keep the crank from spinning?
 

ahl395

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Why not just use a new stock balancer bolt? I've done a few OPG installs now and have not had any of the back out. Just followed the instructions in the service manual for reinstall.
Good question honestly, I don't know lol. I guess the ARP is supposed to be "better" and reusable. Maybe someone else can chime in on an actual explanation. I did it because it's usually done in combination with the ATI balancer but I don't have an actual reason.

I'm in the process of trying to tighten mine down. What technique did you use to keep the crank from spinning?
Two person job. One person under the car has to hold a bolt on the flywheel/flexplate to keep it still while the other tightens the crank bolt. Holding the flywheel with the bolt is the hard part, can take a few tries. There is a small black access plug/hole on the bottom driver side of where the engine/trans meet that will give you access to it.

Here is the best photo I have of it. It's in the circle if you're looking at it head on you'll see a large rubber plug that you remove.

 

dubster99

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That picture gives me bad memories from doing headers...lol.
 

spogshd

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Mine to worked loose, found it after i lost a rib off one of the belts.
My guess is it wasn't actually fully seated, when its torqued to 120 and you hear the click, the thing is that tight on the shaft it wasn't bottomed out but torqued. I will be checking every couple of hundred.

Can someone post a photo of a straight edge across the flats of the water pump pulley down towards the damper so I can get an idea of the position once its bottomed out.
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