ARP Balancer Bolt

[Evo_Rob]

So since this popped up on the TVS/Whipple/Kenne Bell FB page, decide to ask here:

Has anyone had issues with the ARP Balancer Bolt? Backing out, snapping, not threaded, etc?

I was all set to install my OPG/TS today and then someone posted about the bolt backing out and then about 2-3 dozen other people posted up the same thing so now I'm waiting to see which balancer bolt I'm going to use in it's place. Anyone using a stock replacement or did you get a new TTY Ford bolt?

-Rob

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[Roh92cp]

So since this popped up on the TVS/Whipple/Kenne Bell FB page, decide to ask here:

Has anyone had issues with the ARP Balancer Bolt? Backing out, snapping, not threaded, etc?

I was all set to install my OPG/TS today and then someone posted about the bolt backing out and then about 2-3 dozen other people posted up the same thing so now I'm waiting to see which balancer bolt I'm going to use in it's place. Anyone using a stock replacement or did you get a new TTY Ford bolt?

-Rob

Wow, I only heard of that happening once on here, but not with an ARP bolt. When I installed my ATI damper with ARP bolt I called everyone, whipple, ATI and ARP. All recommended using only ARP moly lube to attain the 100 ftlbs recommend by ARP. I know many have used loctite because, but it's never been recommend by the manufacturer only installers and some shops. This is a long standing debate and with no real definite info on using loctite until now. I just research again a couple days ago and found that now ARP under there question and answer tech section says one may use loctite blue on the threads only in place of moly lube. I wonder if this in some way is related to the ARP bolts you say are cropping up on FB.:shrug:

Read question 3 in the link below.
http://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

 

[Gremlinsteve]

Mine has boogered up threads. Could not use it or it would have torn the crank up

So I did not install it

 

[Roh92cp]

Mine has boogered up threads. Could not use it or it would have torn the crank up

So I did not install it

What had boogered up threads...the ARP BOLT.

 

[Evo_Rob]

Wow, I only heard of that happening once on here, but not with an ARP bolt. When I installed my ATI damper with ARP bolt I called everyone, whipple, ATI and ARP. All recommended using only ARP moly lube to attain the 100 ftlbs recommend by ARP. I know many have used loctite because, but it's never been recommend by the manufacturer only installers and some shops. This is a long standing debate and with no real definite info on using loctite until now. I just research again a couple days ago and found that now ARP under there question and answer tech section says one may use loctite blue on the threads only in place of moly lube. I wonder if this in some way is related to the ARP bolts you say are cropping up on FB.:shrug:

Read question 3 in the link below.
http://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

I'd say it's related. here's the link to the page, the discussion was started by David Smith about 12 hours ago https://www.facebook.com/groups/577757689011805/

Edit* Kelly Aiken also said he's had numerous issues with the crank bolt, too. And promptly listed 3 for sale lol

 

[wildcatgoal]

Well great, I have the ARP bolt. Had someone install it. I'll have to ask if he used lube - should have since he's done these numerous times (Ford Tech and does aftermarket stuff a lot). Mine looks fine thus far... not too many miles but... ya know.

 

[Bartly]

I didn't use an ARP bolt, bought a grade 10.9 from Fastenal when installing my OPG and Procharger Stage 2. It came loose after 2 weeks, so I reinstalled it with blue locktite and it been good for several months now. Been thinking of buying an ARP bolt, but it hasn't been a huge priority.

 

[Evo_Rob]

Well great, I have the ARP bolt. Had someone install it. I'll have to ask if he used lube - should have since he's done these numerous times (Ford Tech and does aftermarket stuff a lot). Mine looks fine thus far... not too many miles but... ya know.

i'd check to see if yours has come lose at all. That's ultimately what started the topic is someone said his started walking loose after 3 days and was literally able to be tightened/loosened by hand

 

[Gremlinsteve]

What had boogered up threads...the ARP BOLT.

Yes

As it was going into the crank it started to roll the threads
I did not trust it at that point. This was a brand new app crank bolt

 

[BMR Tech]

Mine would not stay tight with ARP lube and 105ftlbs.

I ended up going up to 120ftlbs and that did the trick.

On the new engine, I went with a studded crank. No more bolts for me. Lol

 

[hiccup]

Why the need for an aftermarket balancer bolt?..is the factory bolt a one time use item?

 

[3beeps]

Why the need for an aftermarket balancer bolt?..is the factory bolt a one time use item?

Yes.

Interesting...I used the bolt that came with my MMR OPG/CG kit. Bought an ARP but the kit also came with it's own balancer bolt so I have the ARP in the box still.

I wonder if it's the bolt or the installer...

 

[Roh92cp]

Yes.

Interesting...I used the bolt that came with my MMR OPG/CG kit. Bought an ARP but the kit also came with it's own balancer bolt so I have the ARP in the box still.

I wonder if it's the bolt or the installer...

Did you instal an MMR or ATI damper? MMR Includes the proper ARP damper bolt in there kit. However it sounds like it's possible you used the damper instal bolt which is only to draw on the damper for installing then it comes out and the ARP is installed and torqued. You better make sure as the instal bolt is to long and will bottom out in the crank and won't torque down and secure the damper.

 

[Super Werty]

I'll have to check mine... Did it a few hundred miles ago. If I remember correctly I torqued it more than 120

 

[3beeps]

Did you instal an MMR or ATI damper? MMR Includes the proper ARP damper bolt in there kit. However it sounds like it's possible you used the damper instal bolt which is only to draw on the damper for installing then it comes out and the ARP is installed and torqued. You better make sure as the instal bolt is to long and will bottom out in the crank and won't torque down and secure the damper.

The kit from MMR came with a crankshaft/balancer bolt. I'm using the stock damper.

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