Are you kidding me??? Cooling Post

[NeverSatisfied]

I bought a 2019 PP2 figuring I’m done with this trailer and dedicated track car business. I’m going to save a few bucks and throw a diff cooler at my car and have a nice driver I can flog at track. And be 90% of a gt350 for a lot less money.

75F at mid Ohio this week. Inaugural extended track day. Diff cooler works great! 220 max. Car is so sweet with a balance of handling and power. No lap times but keeping up with much more expensive iron in the fast group

But I can push coolant temp past 230 in 4 laps and push oil into the “hot” range in 6-7!!

This is pretty significant? I thought this car shared the same radiator as the gt350? Wondering if it’s the fact it’s doing dual duty with the factory water to oil cooler vs the separate oil cooler on the 350?

I ordered the Mishimoto radiator and pre-ordered the 2018+ oil cooler that’s supposed to release in a few weeks in hopes that’s the fix?

really didn’t want to get into this and especially not ducting or hood vents with this car being a daily driver.

I’m by no means claiming I’m a great driver but I can whip the car fairly hard.

I hope I didn’t make a mistake leaving the Miata world!

appreciate any input!

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[EFI]

It's a street car with no coolers really, so it's not surprising for someone who apparently can push the car. This wasn't meant to be a dedicated track car that can go on track forever without overheating.

Not to sway you away from the car, as with simple cooling mods like you mentioned will make a big difference...but if you had wanted that 100% stock dedicated track car that never gets hot you got the wrong one. A 1LE or GT350 are the ones for that task.

 

[VinnAY]

People find out pretty quick these aren't track cars unless you add all the coolers to them but then those folks usually have a budget to do such things.

 

[SVO MkII]

I believe the oil temp is an "inferred" temp on these cars (I know it is on EB engines), so adding an oil cooler will cool the oil some, but the ECU won't necessarily see that, and the displayed oil temp and related actions (i.e., power reduction) will remain unchanged. Good luck!

 

[Grintch]

It's a street car with no coolers really, so it's not surprising for someone who apparently can push the car. This wasn't meant to be a dedicated track car that can go on track forever without overheating.

Which is why they put track tires on it, and charge essentially the same price as the actually track ready 1LE package that comes with more hardware (seats, coolers, etc.).

 

[NeverSatisfied]

Which is why they put track tires on it, and charge essentially the same price as the actually track ready 1LE package that comes with more hardware (seats, coolers, etc.).

I’m in bed with her now so well see how these upgrades do and if I get to cut holes in my brand new hood!

On the flip side it is fun to see the gt350 gt350r and 1LE owners come poke around your car and ask what you’ve done to it after the track session!

 

[Grintch]

Well driver skill levels are so all over the place at most track days that I have out run Corvette Z06's and Porsche 911 Turbos. And been outrun by a Miata. All in a mildly modified PP1. And once saw a couple of fat old ladies out run a Ford GT in a mostly stock Subaru BRZ.

 

[Hack]

Not to be too much of a downer, but remember there's no factory temperature sensor on your transmission. Ford put the sensor on the diff, knowing that in stock form the diff will get hot first. Now that you've eliminated the diff as the first hot spot, I think the transmission may be next. My advice is to monitor the temperature, just add a cooler now or prepare to replace it before too long.

 

[fatbillybob]

I bought a 2019 PP2

I hope I didn’t make a mistake leaving the Miata world!

appreciate any input!

Someone else wrote:
<<I've had so many other issues like a failed APIM and interior trim that was sagging around the instrument cluster that I just don't know about Ford anymore.

Anyways, there's my story.>>>

I'm not a ford guy. I bought a 2019 mustang gt pp1 to turn into my next racecar which I have done. Bought it right off the lot and gutted it welded cage. It is now an SCCA T2 clubracer and some T1. I have raced both classes in vette for 10+ years including Runoffs around country and Majors races around country and have about 30 tracks under my belt. I have been on track much longer than those 10 years and have a full garage shop, 4 welders, milling machines, tire changers, Scales, alignment tools, full service lift, fabrication tools and I weld my own cages.

I took my new gt with 300 miles on a baseline run on a not brake intense track, WSIR, and was totally disappointed on every metric except horsepower and A10 gearbox. I got slapped down by people here since I was complaining. Typical can't drive etc etc. Can't use brakes etc.

Well All I can say is yeah stick with miata. I wish I stuck with vette where I came from. In fact I built the mustang developed more than 90% of the people here and the new racecar build is for sale. I'll race it until it sells, gets crashed, or just falls apart. That's racing everything is disposable. You have to hate a car to race it and beat the living cr@p out of it and I hate this car. Win!

After all my build and development I still think the motor and A10 are good. Rest of car sucks. There is just nothing good about it. The suspension is the dumbest design I have ever seen in a performance car. Yes you can make it work. It isn't easy. There are too many flaws to list from binding suspension arms to kludge vertical links, to set ride heights with non adjustable springs. Yes there are work arounds and many are happy with a $1500 suspension kit. I'm over 10k in trying to make this car competitive. It is the most expensive cheap car I have ever built. Flyhalf on this board has tried a bunch of iterations of cooling mods. I say don't screw with it. It is so much easier to accept the lameness that is Ford and just re-engineer it. Just go for it and put the right coolers in so you don't have to screw with it again. Go big so you don't find renewed problems. I got zero development time in coolers because I just beat the problem with sledgehammer. There are a couple of us here not going to mish stuff because it is expensive and not comprehensive or did not appear so on website. It was easy to attack oil with 67000btu derale cooler and a setraub oil filter plate and same 67000btu cooler for A10 and stock radiator. I repurposed the stock trans cooler for the diff. This is super easy because derale makes a support rack that is perfect size for mustang and bolts right to our radiator support. The oil and trans cooler bolt to the rail and Simple AN. Lines and you are done. Setraub makes the high quality low price filter plate that is like a tstat non-electric controlled unit so you don't have to think about it. It is a flawless setup. Add in some race louvers if you want and cooling problems solved. It all isn't cheap but to make a Mustang work you got to spend the money. That's why the car is cheap in the 1st place because Ford spend zero on this car. There isn't even a fuel port on the injector rails for diagnostics or fuel testing for a race class or if you want to tap off the rail for a safe nitrous shot. If you are a DIY guy with experience over many cars you will learn real quick the suckage continues with the over Ford build. You got really dumb stuff like the mess you make trying to change the oil, or the M6 bolts with different sized heads, or the 10.9 bolts in a low strength flange nut. I mean every time I work on this car the words, "Are you kidding me?" come out of my mouth.

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I completely agree I would never attempt to make a s550 a racecar. But I like it as a affordable road car that my two young daughters and wife can jump in and go for a ride. I get that it’s a compromise for track time but am very happy with the performance on track given the compromise in performance I’m willing to accept.

I just want to keep it cool for a 25min session off running at 9.5/10.

started shopping for used hoods and race louvers. Hopefully between the coolers and louvers I’ll achieve the goal.

I’ll probably add a temp gauge to the trans to start. But in talking with vorshlag who did some fairly thorough documented testing on a 2018 they said they found the trans stayed relatively cool despite everything else getting hot.

 

[Plimmer]

I ordered the Mishimoto radiator and pre-ordered the 2018+ oil cooler that’s supposed to release in a few weeks in hopes that’s the fix?

I have that radiator and it will only be effective if you box it in. You want to make sure all the air coming in through the front is forced through the radiator and none of it can leak around the radiator. Some people make aluminum covers to box in the radiator. I don’t have any metal working skills so I made mine from corrugated plastic board that I got from Lowe’s. Then I used double sided tape and duct tape to make the box as air tight as possible.

 

[Flyhalf]

I feel your pain.
Ducted everything
Oil cooler
Bigger radiator than pp
Hood vents
Water spray on coolers.
Still overheating.
I'm installing a second oil cooler soon. Still figuring out where. You luckier cause i have a big trans cooler too for the A10.

 

[ice445]

I feel your pain.
Ducted everything
Oil cooler
Bigger radiator than pp
Hood vents
Water spray on coolers.
Still overheating.
I'm installing a second oil cooler soon. Still figuring out where. You luckier cause i have a big trans cooler too for the A10.

Is the coolant temperature getting out of control or is the car just pulling power? The inferred oil temp thing really sucks.

 

[Flyhalf]

Is the coolant temperature getting out of control or is the car just pulling power? The inferred oil temp thing really sucks.

I stopped before going in limp mode. I now can track the car in normal weather, like 60 / 80 f, without any issue. Unfortunately when the weather is hot like 90 to 100, the car suffers. CHT goes up to 240, and like Brian said he's mainly due to the fact that you pile different coolers in front of the radiator. The 2018 front bumper doesn't really allows you to have side pockets in 350 Style, so the only way to set up coolers on the side is 2 cut or open the front side bumper. I have a real gauge for the oil temp and I know that's the algorithm calculating the temp in the Mustang is at least 10-15 F wrong when you have an oil cooler. So one of the problem to fix will be, after keeping better under control the oil temp, find a way to bypass the limp mode created by too high oil temp. I must say, Camaro platform especially the 1le is a way better platform for the track. I really don't understand why ford engineers did this without considering a real Track Pack.
Right now situation is
Zl1 1le> gt500 > zl1 > ss1le >350R >350>SS> pp2> pp1

 

[BVA254]

What has been done to shield your exhaust pipes/ heat from your diff?

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