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Alternator upgrade options

1miracle2

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Hello everyone.
So I have a base 2017 poor man's Mustang, aka ecoboost . It didn't come with the bigger alternator the premium Mustang gets. I have airbags and they ate up my stock battery. So I upgraded to the bigger premium alternator. Bought the same battery and it died too. So my airbags and my 3000 watt system are just too much. Cause I upgraded to a big ass battery, still with the premium bigger alternator and it's still not enough. I also did the "Big Three" with 1/0awg and I still can't charge the damn thing fast enough. There's nothing aux running so I know nothing is draining the batteries and the alternator is working per Auto Zone.

So my question is, does anyone have a source that makes bigger than the premium alternators (200amps?)? I've looked and I can't find ANYTHING bigger than that for my EcoBoost 2.3L.

If anything's know's a source please LMK.
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GMB Racing

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did you run the ground wire for the big 3 that goes to battery thru the sensor on the ground (stock) wire. if not then the charging system does not know how much juice you are using and won't charge the battery enough You could try disconnecting the sensor coil so the alt will put out full change. Needed to do this with my f150 for the winch .
 

W.O.T. Stang

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did you run the ground wire for the big 3 that goes to battery thru the sensor on the ground (stock) wire. if not then the charging system does not know how much juice you are using and won't charge the battery enough You could try disconnecting the sensor coil so the alt will put out full change. Needed to do this with my f150 for the winch .
This is correct. Ford uses a battery current sensor in it's smart charging system to detect the load on the system. (basically an amp clamp). If you are not routing it correctly, it will have no idea to up the charge limit.
 
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1miracle2

1miracle2

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I left the stock cables and ran the additional cables for the big three. I don't remember seeing a sensor though. I'll check again but are either of you able to tell me where that is or show me a picture?
 

scotty

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The alternator's output is PCM controlled... meaning it will not output full power unless commanded. There is also a battery management system that manages charging to prolong battery life - it may need to be reset since you've changed the battery.

I have an aftermarket stereo - 800W and 1500W amps - and the alternator could not keep up .. I was experiencing major voltage drops when I turned the stereo up past a certain level. I spent months searching for a reliable fix and pretty much just gave up... I was going to install a second battery in my trunk this spring to see if that would fix it. A few months back I had the car tuned and after that I noticed that I could crank the stereo without any of those issues - looked at my voltage display on the dash and it was pegged at 14.6V, never moved.. I am assuming my tuner disabled the PCM alternator control/smart charging... not sure if this would help in your case, but figured I'd share my experience.

EDIT: The sensor that was mentioned a few posts up is what lets the PCM know how much electrical draw there is so it can command the alternator accordingly. Definitely have to run your additional grounds from the Big 3 through that somehow or disable the smart charging system. The sensor looks like a plastic loop around the negative battery cable with a small wire coming off of it -- if you look in the battery box area you'll see it
 

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1miracle2

1miracle2

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This info helps, thank you. I am pro tuned, I'll see if my tuner can disable that. Thanks.
 

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As for the current sensor it looks like there are two according to the service manual. The one below the battery box is there on my '19 but it does not have anything connected to the 3-pin connector. There is no wire/connector anywhere nearby so it is not disconnected, it is left out intentionally. The sensor must be part of the battery wiring and is on all Mustangs whether it is used or not.
 
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1miracle2

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Hello y'all.
So I emailed my tuner and he is unaware of any "access tables to control the alternator" or perhaps he doesn't "have access with the Cobb Access port".

Are you able ro provide your tuners info so I can hit them up, I'll see if they can help or point me in the right direction, tunning wise.
Thanks for the help.
 

scotty

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Hello y'all.
So I emailed my tuner and he is unaware of any "access tables to control the alternator" or perhaps he doesn't "have access with the Cobb Access port".

Are you able ro provide your tuners info so I can hit them up, I'll see if they can help or point me in the right direction, tunning wise.
Thanks for the help.
My tuner is Palm Beach Dyno.
It may be an HPTuners specific function - the COBB probably does not have support for it.
Here's a screenshot from a sample file - PCM Alt Control. I don't have the ability to open my tune from PBD as its in nGauge format, but this is what I am assuming they disabled.

upload_2020-2-11_22-43-54.webp
 

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You could always get a PCM Voltage Control module from US Alternators http://www.usalternators.com/pcm-module/ (They are about $220)
The PCM module gives you full control of voltage and keeps voltage at a constant number. The newer cars come with a smart charge system which raises and lowers voltage to save fuel and to extend battery life. This PCM Module system works with that system to deliver a higher voltage all the time when aftermarket electronics are added.

They also have high output alternators for the 2017 Ford Mustang Ecoboost

Large Case Hairpin Line
- 285A Peak -- 250A HOT - $499
- 320A Peak -- 270A HOT - $599
- 410A Peak -- 390A HOT - $699


upload_2020-2-21_7-47-26.webp
 

NoVaGT

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3000 watt system??!!!

large-auto-sound-system.webp
 
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1miracle2

1miracle2

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3000 watt system??!!!

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LOL, that's crazy awesome .


Soooooo after waking up to a dead battery a couple days ago and taking the car to AutoZone. Well they did their testing and said the alternator is working fine but the battery was completely dead. So now im dealing with warranty with JEGs because the battery was only 5 months old. But I ended up with a RedTop Optima battery. Everything electronic is now working again.

Thank you everyone for all the info and suggestions but I think that battery was just faulty, or at least I hope so.
 
 








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