2019 Mustang Alternator

[Gregs24]

I wouldn't worry about your alternator - I would worry about your hearing !

Sponsored

 

[Cemclo]

Singer Alternators makes high output alternators for our cars. I have a 370A in my car.

At 2000W you may be able to get away with the stock alternator since it is decent size. Upgrading the battery to AGM could help I would install the system and see what kind of voltage drop you get first personally.

370a my man!!

 

[m3incorp]

I am an audio guy and I can't see myself putting in a system that demands I upgrade alternators. Back in the day I used those huge amps that demanded a high output alternator and I would use those Singer alternators..they were not cheap 15 years ago and I imagine they haven't gotten any cheaper. It is not hard to get good bass into the car, especially since you said you did the rear seat delete. People have recommended you try what you have but it seems like you are set on a higher output alternator. I will almost bet that your local dealership can find a way to void part of your warranty for a high output alternator install.

 

[Linkster1666]

I wouldn't worry about your alternator - I would worry about your hearing !

WHAT!

 

[Cemclo]

so first off I need to get pre the audio processing.
I misread and thought it was a quick easy find..

No eq and no subsonic filters/bass roll offs.
I’m not sure if the dsp amp or the acm is responsible for the roll offs and cross overs.
so I’m not sure if it can be done between dsp and acm or if it needs to be done after the dsp.
also don’t know if there would be any volume control on the signal if it’s pulled from the acm.
Full range or low pass signal is fine as long as it sends a full flat audio signal from 100hz to 15hz.
Replacing the dsp sounds like a horrible option if I also end up replacing door speakers. If I’m gonna throw an amp and door speakers I would prefer not to get the cardboard ones from ford. Is it possible to replace the dsp with an aftermarket multi channel full range amp? Where I can keep from interrupting the useless canbus it passes through and the open circuit detection and not have door chimes through my door speakers?
has anyone easily replaced the factory dsp amp and worked it seamlessly into the acm etc?
I’m very close to ripping wires out like tug o war and installing a crisp clean single din Sony. All this extra garbage is really a disappointment

 

[Cemclo]

So the reason I am searching for a very specific signal source is from My understanding...
If I tap into any regular wires for any of the speakers in my 9 speaker system...it will have lots of roll offs...if I install a dsp for a subwoofer audio output I will have to replace all my door speakers... if I tap in to the acm signals I won’t have volume control... and if I change my acm to variable output(volume control) it will disable the dsp amp and the 4ohm(?) door speakers wont have enough wattage to listen to. But if I replace the dsp with an aftermarket amp, then I’ll have a bunch of issues including canbus. Idek what canbus is really.. some kind of ac current. But anyways. This whole sync 3 system is preposterous. Currently on rear speaker wires and the 50hz subsonic filter is very upsetting. Plus I have clipping around 700-900 watts. I’ve taken my time on this install going deeper and deeper but as I have felt positive with there being so much to learn, it seems like it’s all pointless. And sync 3 is over complicated cheap shit

 

[Bullit69]

Just throw in an LC2I. It’ll take care of your subs needs. That’s what I have currently, it sounds sweet.

 

[Bullit69]

Oh and p.s., I will have upgrade my battery. With a fosgate amp pushing a JL Audio W6 12”, my voltage drops to about 12.5 - 12.7, then jumps to 13.7. It may be just the charging system doing its thing...

 

[Cemclo]

Oh and p.s., I will have upgrade my battery. With a fosgate amp pushing a JL Audio W6 12”, my voltage drops to about 12.5 - 12.7, then jumps to 13.7. It may be just the charging system doing its thing...

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like a nice setup. I’ve noticed the voltage changes on its own too for no reason. I’ve ran an lc2i, an identical unit but NVX brand and a gravity 7 eq. But none of it is to my liking haha. I’m just gonna replace all the speakers and the factory amp.

 

[Bullit69]

I’d go with some focal 3 way, that’s what I plan on doing with my mids & highs.

 

[m3incorp]

Yeah, I don't like how they designed the system with different ohm speakers and the need for so much processing. Easier (not necessarily cheaper) to replace all speakers with like ohms and use a different amp and a dsp.

 

[GregP27]

First, 2000W at 3.5 volts is 148.+ amps, but that's not battery voltage, that's battery charging voltage.

You cannot listen to even 100 amps of continuous power in a car or you'd be deaf. You're looking at peak power only.

If you are mainly doing light dance music or voice, generally recommend that the amplifier power be 1.6 times the Continuous Power rating per channel. If you are doing heavy metal/grunge, try 2.5 times the Continuous Power rating per channel. The amplifier power must be rated for the impedance of the loudspeaker (2, 4, 8 or 16 ohms).

Suppose the impedance of your speaker is 4 ohms, and its Continuous Power Handling is 100 W. If you are playing light dance music, the amplifier's 4-ohm power should be 1.t6 x 100 W or 160 W continuous per channel. To handle heavy metal/grunge, the amplifier's 4-ohm power should be 2.5 x 100 W or 250 W continuous per channel. You may have to add one or more batteries and charge them all with that alternator to get that much power to operate, but you won;t hear anything when you are 35+ years old, and every neighborhood you drive through will throw stuff at your car.

When they say dB below, they mean dBm, not dB. dBm is referenced to 1 milliwatt. dB is referenced to the input only and you cannot tell any power levels without some reference power level.

dB = 10 log10 (p2 / p1), where p2 is output and p1 is input. P = power in Watts.
dBm = 10 log10 (p1 / 1 mW).

log10 means logarithm base 10.

So, 2000W out for 1 mW in is 63 dBm. We're getting into engineering here, so I'll stop.

• Typical loudspeaker sensitivity is 85 dB SPL/W/m for home stereos, 95 dB SPL/W/m for small PA speakers, 100-105 dB for medium PA speakers, and 110 dB for large PA speakers.
• The recommended power allows for signal peaks of 10 dB for folk, jazz and pop music. Actually the peaks might be as high as 25 dB, but we're allowing for some inaudible short-term clipping.
• The recommended power allows for signal peaks of 6 dB for rock music that is highly limited or compressed.
• According to Crown's chief amplifier engineer, Gerald Stanley, amplifier continuous power and amplifier peak power are nearly the same. Typically, peak power is only 1 dB higher than continuous power, and depends on peak duration.

Total amplifier power required in various applications

• Nearfield monitoring: 25 W for 85 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks), 250 W for 95 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks)
• Home stereo: 150 W for 85 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks), 1,500 W for 95 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks)
• Folk music in a coffee shop with 50 seats: 25 to 250 W
• Folk music in a medium-size auditorium, club or house of worship with 150 to 250 seats: 95 to 250 W
• Folk music at a small outdoor festival (50 feet from speaker to audience): 250 W
• Pop or jazz music in a medium-size auditorium. club or house of worship with 150 to 250 seats: 250 to 750 W
• Pop or jazz music in a 2000-seat concert hall: 400 to 1,200 W
• Rock music in a medium-size auditorium, club or house of worship with 150 to 250 seats: At least 1,500 W
• Rock music at a small outdoor festival (50 feet from speaker to audience): At least 1,000 to 3,000 W
• Rock or heavy metal music in a stadium, arena or ampitheater (100 to 300 feet from speaker to audience): At least 4,000 to 15,000 W

 

[Cemclo]

First, 2000W at 3.5 volts is 148.+ amps, but that's not battery voltage, that's battery charging voltage.

You cannot listen to even 100 amps of continuous power in a car or you'd be deaf. You're looking at peak power only.

If you are mainly doing light dance music or voice, generally recommend that the amplifier power be 1.6 times the Continuous Power rating per channel. If you are doing heavy metal/grunge, try 2.5 times the Continuous Power rating per channel. The amplifier power must be rated for the impedance of the loudspeaker (2, 4, 8 or 16 ohms).

Suppose the impedance of your speaker is 4 ohms, and its Continuous Power Handling is 100 W. If you are playing light dance music, the amplifier's 4-ohm power should be 1.t6 x 100 W or 160 W continuous per channel. To handle heavy metal/grunge, the amplifier's 4-ohm power should be 2.5 x 100 W or 250 W continuous per channel. You may have to add one or more batteries and charge them all with that alternator to get that much power to operate, but you won;t hear anything when you are 35+ years old, and every neighborhood you drive through will throw stuff at your car.

When they say dB below, they mean dBm, not dB. dBm is referenced to 1 milliwatt. dB is referenced to the input only and you cannot tell any power levels without some reference power level.

dB = 10 log10 (p2 / p1), where p2 is output and p1 is input. P = power in Watts.
dBm = 10 log10 (p1 / 1 mW).

log10 means logarithm base 10.

So, 2000W out for 1 mW in is 63 dBm. We're getting into engineering here, so I'll stop.

• Typical loudspeaker sensitivity is 85 dB SPL/W/m for home stereos, 95 dB SPL/W/m for small PA speakers, 100-105 dB for medium PA speakers, and 110 dB for large PA speakers.
• The recommended power allows for signal peaks of 10 dB for folk, jazz and pop music. Actually the peaks might be as high as 25 dB, but we're allowing for some inaudible short-term clipping.
• The recommended power allows for signal peaks of 6 dB for rock music that is highly limited or compressed.
• According to Crown's chief amplifier engineer, Gerald Stanley, amplifier continuous power and amplifier peak power are nearly the same. Typically, peak power is only 1 dB higher than continuous power, and depends on peak duration.

Total amplifier power required in various applications

• Nearfield monitoring: 25 W for 85 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks), 250 W for 95 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks)
• Home stereo: 150 W for 85 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks), 1,500 W for 95 dB SPL average (with 15 dB peaks)
• Folk music in a coffee shop with 50 seats: 25 to 250 W
• Folk music in a medium-size auditorium, club or house of worship with 150 to 250 seats: 95 to 250 W
• Folk music at a small outdoor festival (50 feet from speaker to audience): 250 W
• Pop or jazz music in a medium-size auditorium. club or house of worship with 150 to 250 seats: 250 to 750 W
• Pop or jazz music in a 2000-seat concert hall: 400 to 1,200 W
• Rock music in a medium-size auditorium, club or house of worship with 150 to 250 seats: At least 1,500 W
• Rock music at a small outdoor festival (50 feet from speaker to audience): At least 1,000 to 3,000 W
• Rock or heavy metal music in a stadium, arena or ampitheater (100 to 300 feet from speaker to audience): At least 4,000 to 15,000 W

hey Greg, thanks for the info. Some of it I understand haha. I should’ve specified that I’m using a 2000w amp for subwoofers. I definitely do not need a PA inside my car lol
The subwoofers can together at 1ohm handle more than a bridged 2000w and the amp can handle 2000w before it starts to generate some heat and shut down. I can’t remember but I think it’s fused for around 2500w. I’d be happy with about 1900w for the ultimate peak. I don’t really want all the screws to fall out of my car lol
As far as batteries go you never need more than 1. And you can never run more batteries without extra alternators. Batteries are only for using power when the alternator isn’t running. If you have extra batteries your alternators have to be able to sustain the amps originally needed and to recharge the batteries simultaneously

as for the other highs and mods I’m gonna throw In a 800w amp and I’ll probably keep it simple with the same number of channels per speaker or 2 speakers per channel

 

[Cemclo]

So I’ll probably be building some wiring harnesses to plug into all the usual factory amp dsp plugs so people can keep their factory speaker wires

 

[Bullit69]

So I’ll probably be building some wiring harnesses to plug into all the usual factory amp dsp plugs so people can keep their factory speaker wires

I saw a great video on that, the guy used the stock bezel, just cut out the speaker, soldered the new speaker wire to the bezel and voile instant oem harness! I’ll look for that video and post it.

Sponsored